1952-59 Ford Help to find direction for a Build

I have a 55 Fairlane that doing a restomod type restore...not going all out just mainly getting it to looking good and be good for a daily....

1. I have paint/ body work needed.
2. going with 5.0 AOD instead of 272 and manual trans
3. I have a 9" that I can build to put in.
4. plan on doing a modern harness with fuses.
5. Interior is last I know...
6. replacing 55 dash with a 56 dash.
7. wanting A/C system
8. front disc at minimum
9. need new gl***
10. need new radiator
11. going to carb on the 5.0 so (need carb/electric fuel pump..front sump pan...motor/****** mounts...) already have a performer intake..and the donor motor ******...
12. do I need to keep fresh air vents or get rid of them since going to A/C setup?
13. I want to do backup lights...(didnt come with it) and at minimum lap belts...

Im sure theres more but trying to figure out where I should start...Right now I have abought 3K to get started...(yes this will prob be couple year project)

 

I rebuilt the stock master cylinder but found out the p***enger front wheel cylinder is bad...so I do have new ones for front but I have no clue when it comes to drums so thinking of just doing the disc swap instead of using more time and energy and money on front drums...dont really know if any of the drums actually work I just know I was able to bleed all but one...

 

Since you have a 3K budget the disc brake swap could be eliminated,the 54-56 Fords use the same large front brakes as the 67-68 Big Block Mustang cars.If you are having a problem bleeding the fronts new wheel cylinders are still available for around $10 each,you may have a restriction or flex hose collapsing internally I would replace those hoses and the hard line in the front,replace the stock master with a dual master from a manual brake '67 Mustang(cheap)part # Fenco M1485 at Autozone front hoses are part# 70136 for both sides and it will stop very well.Your Ford does not have self adjusting brakes,you have to manually adjust them before you bleed or the cylinder may not have full travel and you won't get a full pedal.Send me a pm with email address for a retro A/C system that will save you $$.

 

thanks hell I dont know how to properly adjust them so I'll have to find a article on that

 

Just a few thoughts on what I did with mine.

I installed a Rebel wire harness for around $200, but they have more and less depending on how many circuits you want. I got the biggest, 20 circuit kit just so IF I want power windows, doors, seats, etc I will have it all in place. Support is awesome, great kit, and they are a HABM vendor, look in the forum. website is rebel-wire.com

I bought an aluminum radiator from summit for like $130, works great, just need to fab up some brackets. I think mine is 19x22 would have to check.

Find a 75-80 granada for disc brakes in a boneyard and if you can find a machine shop to taper ream the holes a little larger for you cheap, you can do that swap much cheaper than a kit. Thats covered here and the forum many times if you need the info on that swap.

New gl*** is cheap until you need rear and front gl***. Best I found is $299 each plus shipping here http://www.autocitycl***ic.net

I put a 302 in mine but decided to stay with a mechanical fuel pump. Had to replace the timing cover with one that had the front dipstick hole AND fuel pump provision. Also had to add fuel pump eccentric to drive the fuel pump. Might have been easier to go electric if I had to do over.

 

I need front gl*** along with side gl***....thanks for the site...will save about 100 there

 

Sounds like you are doing to your 55 Ford what I am doing to mine .
I have a 55 fordor that I have removed all the locks and door handles along with all the nameplates and emblems from the outside so all I have is the side body trim for now .
I have built a 302 with a comp Thumper cam , "66" Mustang 289 heads with larger valves -1.90/1.60 and triple angle valve job with screw in studs , Crane roller rockers , intake & exhaust port matched . Edelbrock performer intake & 4 bbl carb , New electronic distributor , much bigger coil , Tri Y headers plus all new rings , bearings , double roller timing chain and so on . Have a C4 with a bigger torque converter .
I am rewiring mine as well with a Rebal wiring kit from Glenn . I am also changing my 55 dash with a 56 dash I already have that came with all the cables , wires keys and all the switches . The guy unhooked everything in stead of the usual cut and rip method most do .
I also replaced my fuel tank with a new on but still using the 272 & FOM for now . Right now by biggest problem is fixing all the bodywork the last owner had done and that's more work than if it was done correctly the first time .
As for my brakes I am keeping my drum brakes but will look into bigger ones maybe but I do have a power brake set up from a Mustang to use for power brakes . Other than that , it will be a dependable fun , hotrod to play with when ever my right foot need a workout !

As for the 3k , save you money on the disc brakes , the ones you have will do fine with bigger drums .

So if you have nay questions at all , please feel free to send me a PM and I will do my best to help .

Jim

 

Where to start? Get more money!

 

so with the mustang master cylinder is it direct bolt in? or drilling new holes?

use same rod as with the 55?

 

Isn't that always the same problem with these old cars ?

They say a boat is nothing but a hole in the water that you pour your money in . Well I have a nice boat too but I'll be damned if I am pouring money into my boat like I am doing on my cars !

The cars are much worst than any boats I have ever owned !

Jim

 

Now for all you want to do 3k isn't going to get anything done . You are going to need much more than that to do what you want to do .
First why would you need a 9" rear for a 300 hp engine maybe ? You are wanting to many top shelf items that will **** that 3k up in a heartbeat !
I am not trying to beat you down , I am being honest . For most everything you want done you can buy one with most of the up grades for the 3k you have know . If you think I am bull ****ting you , we have a guy that just did that and his car that he paid $250 more than you have now !

Look at the thread 54 Customline Build Thread and you will see what he just bought . I hate to say this buy it's to your advantage right now being this closer to Christmas and many people out of work , this is a great time to make a great deal on a car you can drive away with !
Just take your time ans shop around on Craigs List and you will be surprised on what you can buy for the 3k you have now .
Trust me when I tell you if you spend the 3k you have now on the car you are building , you are going to need that much more to be able to drive it on the street . There are just too many good deals out there right now that your hard earned money can get you if you wait and look !

I am just trying to be helpful !

Jim

 

yeah...3k is just what Im starting with....after car being bought and the 5.0 aod from a 92 lincoln mark VII that I got for 600...and few things ive bought already...

Ive crunched some nubers and im looking at 12k to build the car..with paint/interior etc...

 

Everybody Ive talked to on the 8" rear isnt up to par...mainly cant hold power and the small bearing for such a big car....
so that why I was going to do a 9" upgrade..Yrs down the road might have 400hp or so so I dont want to put money into the 8" just to upgrade later is all...
I have somebody that will narrow a 9" for 200 with big bearing ends..he built my last 8.8..I bought the 9" I have now for $50...

If the 8" can hold that much hp with the weight of the car and not give me bearing problems then I can go that way...but every builder who has 8" for sale recommends the 9" with big ends for this style car with anything over stock horsepower...

 

main thing whats best to start with? suspension and brakes? engine/****** etc

 

Start at the bottom and work your way up...dirtiest job first.

 

Welcome to the site. Good bunch of guys and good info.

 

I have pushed 450+ hp through an 8" and didn't break ! Yes a 9" is better but when you weight the difference in the cost of an 8" to a 9" that's a lot of money for just a street car . People tend to under rate the 8" rear !
Unless you are building a race car I wouldn't waist the money on a 9" rear but then thats me and I have build and raced many Fords over the years . If you are running a 460 I would say yes . The real difference in the 9" vs the 8" in breakage is the pinion . The 8" has just the front pinion bearing but the 9" has the front and a rear bearing keeping it straight .What happens with the 8" is when you put a ton of torque to the rear , the pinion wants to twist off to the side from the ring gear and basically breaks . The only reason to break an axel is because you have too much torque with tires way to wide so the axles brake .

So if you are going to be running that much torque & HP thought the rear then get a Ford 9" !

Jim

 

Not to be "that guy", but I think you should also be aware of the fact that it still is a fordor. They're cool as all get out, and I'm glad you're rocking one, but just remember that re-sale value is going to drop off. I'm not saying this to discourage you, I just want to make sure you know.

Hell, if you build a car you love, just expect to lose money and forget everyone else. Thats what I'm doing anyway, and I dig it. Oh, also have fun, thats what we do this for anyway. Easy things to forget, and just making sure you're a step into the game. Resto mods and stuff like that aren't my forte, but have a blast doing it!

 

Even if you have enough HP to break an 8" rear, how you plan on "hooking it up" on street tires? I have a stroker motor in mine and I put a posi 9" in it, small bearing axles though.

To me it just came down to dollars and cents. I had 2 8" rears on hand, both with 2.79 gears though. I wanted posi (trac lok) with 3.70 gears. A posi setup for an 8" rear is big $$$ plus your first born. I got a great deal on a 1957 9" rear (bolt in) and bought a posi pig with ALL new internals for less that I could build that 8" to a posi like I wanted. If I hadnt gone that route, I would have stuck with the 8" because I dont think I would break it, even having 400+ HP in my 56.

Them ford mustanger boys running stroker motors all day behind 8.8 rears. On the other hand, if you can put the 9 in for the same price or close to it, do it and be done with it.

 

Yeah I know the fordor isnt as good..for resale...the only reason went with it is that all four doors will prob be used everytime its driven...50+ year olds like my parents dont wont to climb in and out...so hopefully never sell it

 

yeah ctfortner....it will be street tires...
yeas want a trak lok and approx same gears...so thats what I was looking at also

 

If I decide to keep the drums and just do the dual MC conversion...is there a better place to get new drums and parts than the local parts if they have it

 

and with the 67 dual MC is there a cover plate to use since this one is smaller than the 55?
and where to put the brake pressure switch...anyone have pics of this setup?

 

rock auto parts is mail order and usually pretty good on prices.

 

X2 on Rock Auto ! Their prices are about the best around too ! I have used them many times and never had a problem and fast shipping !

Jim

 

What do you mean by cover plate on the MC? I just bought this same MC and it does come with a cover on it. Not sure if thats what you meant or not. Seems like an easy swap too. I'll be doing this install soon, so I will take lots of pictures and let you know how it goes.

Rocky

 

Also, Old Lady's Mad posted a thread a while back about brake light switches. Go to our search box and type in brake switch. It's the last thread, at the bottom. There are 5 or so before it. This one had some pictures and good tips. Had some info on safety switches for manual transmissions too. Take a gander.

Rocky

 

thanks...dragon...

Ive decided to just start with the whole front suspension and brakes up front...there is alot of build up there so want to get rid of it...(grease/dirt)

I'll have to wing it on the drums never done them so dont know how to R&R them and adjust them or parts to replace

I need to know what all is in the suspension for me to replace (does someone have a complete kit) that doesnt cost alot...and I'll do pics of R&R
and a complete kit on the drums?

I already have new front wheel cylinders to go on
I will buy new rubber hoses and a 67-68 mustang dual manual MC. I have a new pressure switch...

the linings on one side look ok..but If I can get better material then I will...

I will also do the aerostar coils at same time...
where can I get a bigger sway bar setup for the 55?

I will have to get the drums checked out..

Guidance will be appreciated...not knowing everything to replace and grease is hard to pic a each single part in a catalog

 

ebay is the best priced for front end kits. all i found right now were ball joints . look in my profile b clicking on my name . look at my fairlane fotos. or for more suff i done. my photbucket link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Ba...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

those leaf springs for the fairlane?
if so how much