Distributor question

We've talked about this before and I still don't know the answer. If you have an oddball engine (say hypothetically a 462 inch Lincoln motor) land can't find cool distributors, is it possible to mate the shaft from your distributor to the top of something like a Ford FE spaulding distributor that is similar but has different tooth count in the shaft spline?

 

I'm not an expert in this field, but I would speculate that this would work fine. Many flatheads are running Chevy distributors. I would think that in order to make the conversion as easy as possible, the donor distributor should have a shaft that is as long or longer than the original distributor. That way, you only have to adapt the gear and the housing to match your motor leaving the shaft, advance mechanisms and other internals alone other than maybe the shortening, reshaping to fit the oil pump drive or both. If machining the donor distributors housing to fit into your block won't work, you may have to mate the mounting area of the original distributor with that of the donor via welding. The donor distributor would now run your motors firing order, not the firing order from the motor that it came from.

My only question with this type of conversion is whether or not the rotation of the distributor comes into play at all. Does the cam that actuates the points have different profiles if turned clockwise or counterclockwise? I would think that if your converted to a Pertronix type set-up that it wouldn't make any difference?

 

You can make a drive for about anything. Lenght if the shaft is important, and the gear that mates it up.

The dizzy doesn't care what is driveing it, just cares that the wires are on the right place and that its turning in the right direction.

If you have a dizzy that normally turns clockwise and you spin it counter clockwise the spark advance won't work. Uh that's my disclaimer.

 

Everybodys got it so far.The spark making/distributing part generally only cares if it is being turned.The advance mechanism is direction of rotation sensitive and must have the same as original.The drive/adapter must mate with the engine like original(unless changes have been made necessary by orientation changes).Rotational repositioning of the body is a consideration.I have seen(chrysler 6)an improperly timed oil pump not allow the dist to be turned enough to allow proper timing.On the sbc the oil is directed to lifter bores by a groove around the dist base.If the 55-56 dist base is not located properly oil flow will be cut off/diminished to 1 bank of lifters.1957 and after the groove was continous and orientation was not important.I just mention this as an example of the way the drive and adapter can influence the engine.I haven't noticed a dist cam profile that was different either side but mags (non automotive)are usually different.A fellow worker swapped a 470 cad in his F250 and adapted the Ford dist and other electricals (except starter).With no badge on valve covers he really had some puzzled viewers when he raised the hood.

 

this mallory was originally for a 455 Olds,now it will fit the early 303-324-371,394 Olds.
i extended it with the parts shown by the arrows.

 

Ive been using stock FoMoCo distributors for many years.
Have yet to have a problem with one.
carry a rebuild kit in the ash tray
(points, cond, screwdriver, matchbook)

Hell I jsut sent my 64 off to its new home, and it has the same points in it for 3 years. Fires right up and runs like a top

 

Eric Von Zipper's got a good point.

Nothing wrong with a points distributor.
Specially on an engine that isn't going to see too high an rpm.

Quality parts, good spark plug wiring, silicon lube on the distributor cam instead of the grease that comes with the points will make them last a long time.
Buy points with a fiber rubbing block instead of plastic.
Buy condensers with molded rubber ends instead of a thin cardboard cap with hole drilled for the wire.

I plan to use a points distributor in my next project.
Combined with a good coil and an MSD 6al will make a great ignition system.

Since the points are triggering the MSD there's no wear on the points due to electrical arcing.
Only thing you have to watch is rubbing block wear and using the aforementioned silicon grease will make that last a long while.
Just ask the parts guy - at a real parts house - for points lube in a tube.
Standard (I believe) makes it.
Used to cost $3.00, probably costs $5.00 nowadays, but I still have most of a tube left that I bought 25 years ago.
The guy wasn't kidding when he said it was a lifetime supply.

Someone - I think it may be Summit - carries an adapter to put the large FoMoCo dist cap with male spark plug terminals on a GM distributor.
That's also in the plans for my project.

If you're using your old distributor, see if you can find one of the blue colored caps or the light brown colored one.
That would give it a different appearance.

Wanna blow em away?
Mount a second (non-operating) vacuum advance can on it, hook up a hose and don't answer questions about it.
Give em something to think about....

 

Back in the old days they used to convert the Nash Twin Eight distributor to fire the two plug per cylinder flathead V8 set-ups, so yes, you can cobble together a distributor from various bits and pieces.

 

Rotation is the only real concern. Make sure the doner dist. has the correct rotation for your engine and you can make just about anything work if you have access to a lathe.

I run Chevy dist. in Flatheads all the time and I'm currently working on using two 6 cyl. Mallorys for my Lincoln V-12!!

Matt