Hey guys, Started my m/c swap this weekend. All lines are plumbed, but I cant seem to get air out of the lines. So I went and bought a brake bleed system and thats not really working either. All fittings are tight and not cross threaded. Also noticed that pedal isnt coming back to where it needs to be. So I swapped that push rod (pedal to the m/c) for a longer one. Now my pedal is coming out to where it needs to be. Bled the back brakes and now my pedal goes down half way, not all the way to the floor. So I'm ***uming thats good? We then started bleeding the front and pops thought they were good. So I took it on the highway at about 70mph and tried slowing, but couldnt!!!! Hahahaha totally kidding. I backed down the drive way, and hit the brakes. Dropped to about half pedal before they kicked in. So I'm ***uming there is still air in the front lines. Anyone have any ideas I could use to help me? I have the front lines going to the front of the m/c and the back lines to the back of the m/c. Any help would be great. Thanks guys. Rocky
have you got just a master , no prop valve? did you start with bench bleeding the master cyl. ? right now it sounds like just half the brakes are working. if you just open a bleeder at the wheel dose fluid gravity bleed on its own? do you have fluid at all wheels?
Yeah, its a drum/drum master, so not prop valve. did the bench bleeding. Im pretty sure the backs bleed after opening. I was the one pumping the brake, Pops was bleeding. Pretty sure all wheels have fluid at them. I'm at work right now, but after work, we are going to adjust the brakes up and then bleed them again and see how they work after that.
I would do the brake adjustment and then see how they feel. That may be the trick, especially if you have a hard pedal when it's half down now.
Rocky , Open the bleeders at the MC and wait to see if you get fluid dripping out good then close the bleeders up on the MC . That is the easy way of bleeding a MC . When I did brake jobs and did the MC too , I would put the MC in a vise and fill with fluid and open the bleeders and put a coffee can under the bleeders . I would then go and do my brakes so when I got them done the MC had bleed it's self out . I then did the normal r/r -- l/r --r/f -- l/f bleeding routine . If you can't get some to bleed out then you can either have a bad wheel cylinder that is rusted inside and won't move or you have a bad rubber line that has separated in side and blocked the fluid . Those two areas you will have to loosen the live closest to that area to see if there is any blockage . This is how I did all my brake jobs if there was a problem someplace . The only other problem would be a bent or crimped brake like someplace unless trash has gotten to the splitters on top of the rear axel . It has to be one of those things ! Jim
Not sure on a drum/drum system, but seems to me that a disc/drum system, the front part of the master feeds the rear, and rear the front. Usually the larger reservoir feeds the front brakes.
I gave him the directions for his drum/drum system the same way I have mine hooked up.I have given these same directions and part numbers to at least 10 others and they all worked with no problems.What Rocky did not mention to me on the phone was the problem with the pushrod length,that would have turned on the "light bulb" the difference in these Mustang masters between drum and disc is the piston depth in the cylinder.In a drum/drum swap it should be the same depth as the original single master cylinder.
Jeff, we just figured that push rod out this morning. Just didn't wanna keep calling you and bugging you with my problems. So I decided to come here and ask if anyone else had any ideas. Didn't try to step on toes or disrespect you.
Rocky,you know I am always there to help so "bug" me anytime. Since you did take it for a spin as soon as you park it feel the drums for temp,if the fronts seem warmer than the rears or vice versa you can pretty much figure where the problem lies.Sometimes the rears are hard to adjust,with both rears off the ground and the car in neutral try this,adjust till the wheel won't turn then back it off 3-4 clicks,sometimes the drag from the driveline makes one think that they are tighter than they are.Hope you get it fixed for Havasu,in case you didn't see it 1bdsinner is looking for members to join Him on the trip send him a pm as he is planning on a Friday afternoon take off.
Ok. We got it now. We adjusted the front brakes, and now they work great. Car stops much better. Whew, I made that all much harder than it needed to be. Looks like I'll be going to havasu afterall. Thanks again jeff for all the help and thanks to everyone on here as well.
looking at his earlier post , I think he's politely trying to say " I told you so" Pleased you got it sorted, enjoy your road trip man .
4t6, you are wise. Dragon, glad you're up and running, enjoy and have a safe trip. Bring your adjuster tool. New brakes sometimes need an extra click added after a few hundred miles of seating in.
For gods sake if your brakes are not working properly, get some professional help! As I mentioned in another post, make sure all your parts are designed to work together. If you spend all the money to make your ride look a and run great why not protect that investment with proper brakes? That is the best money spent.... the ability to stop the car! I have seen beautifully finished cars crashed because of poor brake designs....
Hey guys planing on doing same M?C swap on Lucy in a week or so what did you do with brake light switch when you changed to new M/C.
My brake light switch is actually mounted underneath my dash on a bracket. Its the one that functions off the brake pedal itself. I've seen the old style plumbed into the lines, but I cant remember where I saw it. I believe it was someone on here that did it. It was pretty cool though.
that's exactly what i did with my brake light switch. because my old MC with screw in switch kept failing..here's what to do in case of emergency... yes that is a cheap horn ****on taped to my brake pedal..hey i was out of options and nowhere near a parts store..
Eric, you're not supposed to make us learn something that doesn't have to do with our cars or as Ritchie Valens said "Oh my head".
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