I`m looking for some input on dropping the front end on my `36 coupe.I`m intending keeping as much of the original car as possible but was intending using a Chassis Engineering axle and reversing the eyes on the spring.However, I`m getting conflicting advice about this, and it says on the C.E. website that it`s advisable to use a later wishbone...anybody know why?I think the C.E. axle has 2 1/4" bosses and the stock axle has 2"(I think)is this the difference? What`s the method used to clear the ty bar if they`ll foul the wishbones after the drop....heating and bending or going over the top of the `bones? I`ve not ruled out having the `36 axle dropped....the cost is about even. I`d appreciate any advise on this from anyone who has done this mod or who knows how to best go about it... TIA..
There is a world of differences between '36 and '37 parts. The '36 axle is interchangeable with 32-35 axles. The '37 and later axles have a wider perch bolt spacing and are 2 1/4" high at the perches. The 32-36 axles are 2" at the perches and the perches are closer together. I have no idea why they would want you to use the 37 bones.You should be able to buy a 32-36 droped axle and everything bolt up.
Don't mean to highjack to post but i had a similar question. How much can you drop a 36 axel? i have an "a" project, i have an 30 axel and bones and a 36 axel and bones. i'm debating which to use. thanks, Chris
Don't get your heart set on one brand, shop around. Maybe magnum makes an axle that will bolt to your existing wishbone, or another manufacturer. If all else fails you can have your original axle dropped, but you probably can't drop it as much as the aftermarket ones are.
Ive seen that they recomend the later bones too, i cant remeber why thou, Im gonna use a superbell axle that is 34 3/8 perch width, and a 35/36 whishbone and a mone leaf spring that is designed for that set up. Your stock spring will only work if you use a stock width axle with a 36 3/8 perch width and the stock wish bones. Im using the narrower axle because im gonna get that 36 DOWN in the front and dont want any clearance problems with the fenders. A stock 33-36 axle is able to be dropped up to a total of 4" JEFF
to have a better turning radius.... the spring hangers on `36 bones are offset to the outside and can rub on the tires in tight turns
Chassis Engineering is ,as far as I know,the only forged axle, the others are ductile iron.I really don`t fancy a cast axle.I realise there are thousands in use, Its just a preference on my part. I`m interested in the Tyre rubbing thing?How`s that come about?
Your fenders are taller in the center than on the outer edges. If you lower the car over a wide front axle the tires will come into contact with the fenders sooner than if it is lowered over a more narrow axle. VW guys are narrowing front beams like crazy. Tucking the tires up in the center of the fenderwells so they can lower the living daylights out of the car. Same idea - just not as extreme on an early Ford. JH