When you just HAVE to shave your doors...

and are stuck without your tools....

http://nosweatgarage.com/html/shavingKit.htm

 

That's our own Hamilton on here.
TZ

 

That's some damn good marketing...shaved door handles in a can

 

Please tell me that its a joke...

 

I'm with RPW, that method cannot possibly stand the test of time. Metal can only be replaced with metal, everything else is bogus.
But I do have to say it's a very good website, very entertaining and beautifully put together.

 

Hami did his car (The blue/white Chev in the ad) and it still looks good after year or so.

Panel adhesive holding a backing plate in, and skim of filler the thickness of the door sheet metal. Why wouldn't it work?

It's not traditional tech, but creative none the less.
TZ

 

I think it a great idea. True that time will tell and it does not take much to weld them shut. But if he can make a dollar then more power to Hami. I hope he sells them to all the rockasilly fools who cannot do it themselves. I mean if they can lay on the pomade they can lay on this stuff!!

 

That's actually AntiChrysler's site. All I can say is that we were "forced" into trying this method over a year ago, on his Chrysler. His antennae wasn't shaved and it woulda screwed a nice pearl paintjob if we welded up the hole. Doing it this way enabled us to just mess up a minimal amount of space and then cover that area with a lick from the flames. Welding woulda screwed up 3-4 times the area and I don't think we coulda matched the pearl or covered that much space with a flame. It's holding up beautifuly and he drives the hell outta that car. Not trying to push the product, just throwin' my $.02 into the mix. I think it's a great way to do some minor custom tricks if you're on a budget and/or don't have a lot of space or tools for serious car building. This is AntChrysler's ride. Filled the hole and added the HOK White Shimrin Ice flames. Pics don't even do it justice.

 

****in awesome. Love that Chrysler.. There you go never thought about it like that dont want to mess the paint up try this..

 

So does the cold weld act as the adhesive and the filler?

 

... and I guess you can't go wrong for only 25 bucks though. It might be quick-fix material, but not everyone happens to have a welder around their hose to patch **** up, guys.

 

Leave it to the Artsy Fartsy guy to say, "That's a pretty cool website design".

 

The only thing i gotta add is that there are a bunch of new cars out now that have their body panels connected togeather this way.

At least thats what i think i remember

Garth

 

You're thinking of Fusor or that stuff made by 3M. It's a chemical bond that can hold panels together - I am not sure what is being used for that kit but Fusor works wonders when used properly and is as good or better than welding. I made a patch for a fender and welded it and wasn't happy and used a chemical bond - it works fantastic and is still holding up 100%.

 

Id like to see a test bed that was 5 years old with this type repair......hell mud slopped in a hole would last 1 year.

 

That 3M stuff is what I skinned the doors with on the Fly. No welding........It's my test bed.

 

i actully did a test with simalr stuff to this .it was seem seeler against a welded bolt onto a steel cabnet.and i was susprised the welded bolt broke 1 st but the weld was with a 110 welder so it was probally a week weld .but ill give seem seeler a plus thats wat they put new cars together with so it has to be strong.i also put a rag top in a vw with it and its still holding afer 2 year .but personally ill weld my stuff

 

Yep...it's the filler and the "weld". AntiC would be adding his own info to this, but he's currently basking in some nice, south-o-the-border type rays. I think it's a very "traditional" kind of idea...use what you have access to!

 

What about opening doors the again. I didn't see a disclaimer about broken windows after you forget the solenoids and door poppers.

 

Man Flt Blk, wish I could say the site and the idea were my own but it is the work and thougth of Patrick C (antichrysler). I have to say, I know some of you would be a little frightened to try this approach, but if you're limited on funds and resources, it's a great alternative. I really had a good time doing it and I didn't stop at the doors, I did the antennae and all the other doo dads on my Belair. I love it! Here's a pic of my Belair and the Chupa J Rambler that Patrick did a while back. It's cool stuff folks!

"No guts... no glory, right Pat?"

 

As I understand it, my little business of No Sweat Garage was discovered while I was vacationing in Mexico. Since the business has been brought up, I hope I can get away with mildly spamming the board. I’ve been
meaning to do a Tech post on this topic, anyways.

Here are some pictures of the work I’ve done with this stuff. This Vespa uses this cold weld to create the teardrop shapes around the blinker lights and I used it to create the tear drop shaped body line that the 39 ford tail light sits on.

From the front I used it to shave the front blinker and some other holes. This is my girl's ride and I don’t have any problems with the body work cracking. However, if I would never build-up this much bondo.

My old rambler was essentially shaved, nosed, decked and painted in one day using this process. See Hami's post above.

 

This automotive “shaving kit” provides practically everything one needs to shave their handles or to nose and
deck their beloved cars for next to nothing and with little or no bodywork experience. The real kicker is…if you start the project in the morning you can be driving a freshly painted or primered Kustom in the evening.

I know this might not seem traditional. If by traditional, you mean spending weeks or months learning to weld, then spending hundreds on a welder and equipment. Then cutting
a patch panel to fit then welding it only to have to grind down the welds. Oh, remember the cost with the grinder. Then, unless you’re a professional welder, you’ve ground some low spots and warped the metal in the process. So, now let’s run to the store for the bondo, spreaders and sand paper. Since you burnt the paint off the body with welding and grinding. Now, you have to worry about body working a much larger portion of the car than the holes originally left by the removal of the handles which means more time sanding. So, most novice will pay to have this done, and then what have they learned, besides customizing cost more than they paid for their cars to start with.

Now, before I go on. You should know that I own a welder and I weld a lot. I love to weld when it saves me time and effort. I have a 8-5 job so I don’t have a lot of time to try to be Cole Foster. Nor, do I have the room for every freaking tool in the world. So, I do what I have to do to get the results I want with the least time and effort…hence the name No Sweat Garage.

Now, let’s look at shaving handles with the kit.
1. Remove handles
2. Scuff the backside of door and the patch panel with 40 grit paper.
3. Degrease back side of door and patch panel.
4. Knead cold weld compound
5. Apply cold weld to patch panel and then press on to the back side of door. (Make sure enough cold weld is used so that when pressed through the door it is higher than the door. You want to have to sand it down, but don’t go crazy…try to save yourself some work.
6. Sand panel flush (this is why there is no body filler needed. The cold weld compound doesn’t get the pin holes
like bondo and it sand s perfectly smooth.)
7. Prime and paint (if paint is you’re cup of tea).

What has the novice learned with this experience? That they CAN do body work and that customizing
can be FUN and EASY.

Will this hold?!!! Of course it will. You’re door panels do not get stressed once the handles are removed. If this portion of the car was under much stress do you think the designers would punch holes in the body there? Besides this is an industrial strength epoxy that major companies use to repair expensive machines. I can site several examples of this stuff being used in much more harsh enviroments without failure. I've heard of this stuff being used to repair bearings for example.

I don’t sell the solenoids or the door poppers, yet. I don’t sell enough stuff to save anybody any money so I don’t do it.

If you don't mind, Keep checking the site because I'm going to start carrying other products designed to fight the high costs of customizing. The goal of this site is to fight the gold chainer mentallity of customizing.

I'm sick of seeing prepaint pictures to show that no filler was used in the making of certain 100grand plus customs. I have a life and I want to drive my car. Besides, all these cars get painted anyways because metal will rust unlike this cold weld compound.

P.S.
I have to Thank Fellow Hambers Hami, and Barnett for all their help.

 

I just got home from a buddy's shop where he was gluing new 1/4 panels on his kid's 69 chevelle with the 3-M stuff. He's used it for years and it works beautifully for him. No pesky warped spots to repair either. I see no reason why AntiChrysler's kit wouldn't work as well.

 

AntiChrysler - you rule. I think its a great idea, and I am with you on your thoughts on how expensive this hobbie can get. I think we get people here who are a little well off then others and have alot of spare time or do this as living and forget what its like to be struggling on a budget, and still want to drive a custom. Your idea rules for people in this situation. But you said it with everything that you need it can get out hand, dont believe me ask my wife.. I would have tried this had I not gone the other route and buy everything you mentioned. I too weld, but I am the novice you speak of so yes, this appeals to me. Good luck in you venture, I will keep an eye out for the other ideas you present us..

 

if I were to do this to my car is it possible to break or sand it out years from now if I want to go back? this might sound stupid but I'm starting to think my car might be rare and might want to go back to stock someday.

 

Prime mover...I don't see why it couldn't be undone if you wanted to put it back to stock.

Ya'll should see that Vespa in person...outstanding! I'm not just talking about the cold weld body work either. The 'flake and pearl paint is really cool. AntiC continues to amaze me with the stuff he pulls off. As far as I know, the Vespa was his first attempt at "serious" custom-type mods and they came out better than I woulda thought. Now...if I could just talk him into some Freak-conoline body mods...

 

A BMW engineer told me that most of the sheetmetal on their new cars are glued to the ch***is. But what really made me think was when he told me that even the entire frontend is being glued to the firewall : No welds and no rivets between the firewall and the framerails, just glue!!! I´ve been told that they did lots of testing and found out that glueing is saver in crashtests, lighter,more rigid and better lasting than spotwelds . Just my $.02.

 

long ago i filled some holes with JB WELD and used a metal screen as it's foundation. it held up for 3 years now. the only mistake i made is i didn't let it set up long enough before paint. i painted the car about a week after filling, and the stuff still shrank for a few more weeks. not noticable unless you knew what you were looking for though. couldn't complain for a poor kid with no welder, but wouldn't do it that way now.

 

AntiC,
Could you post some close up pictures of this stuff "in progess" and currently ?

 

it seems that this kit is no longer available but im interested in some alternative ways to do some shaving/nosing/decking. is this 'cold weld' compound much different than 'panel bond' epoxy? can you sand panel bond smooth? is cold weld compound a stong bonding agent? i was just wondering what kind of experiences you guys & gals had with these methods. my chrysler is begging to be all smoothed out & im really looking forward to doing some bodywork myself.