Anyone know where I can get a cheap 1 wire alt ? I looked at the prices and almost had a heart attach . They were like $200 and up . I have a good Ford Alt but it takes the big plus and have no idea on how to hook that one up . Any help will be really great full ! I don't have very much cash and just trying to keep my mind busy right now . Thanks ahead of time . Jim
Click on www.ebay.com put this number in search 370504080130,a lot better price($66) and a lifetime warranty a little trip to Ace Hardware and it will bolt up to a Ford just fine,a lot of us here have already done it including me.
Here are some on Summit from $73-$160. http://www.summitracing.com/search/...Tuff-Stuff-One-Wire-Alternators/?autoview=SKU
Look in your local yellow pages for an independent alternator/generator repair shop. Take your old parts to them and they may save you a small wad and help with wiring.
I have a 1-wire GM alternator with a Mummert Y-block mounting bracket. Both new, never been mounted. I'll sell it for $125.00 plus shipping. I sold the car and never used it.
Thanks for all the help . It's kind of on hold right now due to my dog having severe problems but hope to have the engine running very soon ! BTW if anyone have a spare one to sell or trade for let me know ! Jim
Jim, you can change a regular internal regulated alternator into a one wire very easily. Did that on my 54 Chev p/u. Will find out how and post it.
I have a new alt and a good used one but has that big plug on it and wish I could figure out how to convert them over to a one wire alt ! Jim
Jim, I'll look to see where I got mine from. I cant remember right off hand. It was somewhere online that Jeff hooked me up with. I got a chrome 1 wire from pretty cheap. I'll look tonight when I get home.
Retro Jim - This illustration came off the web - it shows a way the wiring of the "three wire" (GM) alternator can be set-up to become a "two wire". The 'big stud" is the power out - usually runs back to the battery connection of a Ford solenoid - the #2 connection is "voltage sense" - and typically goes back to the dash wiring somewhere. The #2 "V-sense" is attached into the regulator and telling it if the system voltage is too low - turns on the power if voltage on the other end of the wire is low. It can be jumpered to the main power cable and just sample off of the battery voltage - but it won't work well unless the battery cable presents very low resistance. The "voltage drop" back to the battery has to be very low to get good operation of the regulator. I've got mine run with #6 welding cable and the voltage drop through the full length is nearly nil. When you see one a guy has wired with a #10 gage wire - it can't be working right. The #1 wire goes to an idicator light that is wired to a voltage source at the dash. When the alternator is not charging the #1 post becomes a ground - and the light comes on. When the alternator is charging - #1 becomes power and voltage is fed back towards the bulb - which shuts it off. This can cause a vehicle to "run-on" with the key off - so guys often put a diode in here to stop backfeed. If you don't want a charging light - leave this wire off.
Thanks for the post but the Ford is different than the GM alt . It's a 3 wires I believe that in a plug in the back of the alt . That's the one I am trying to figure out how to wire up . Jim
A typical GM Delco 10SI alternator can be converted to a 1-wire setup easily. Summit Racing sells a kit for like $25, takes about 15 minutes to install. You can get a 10SI at the parts store for like $40, so you'll have $65 in a 1-wire setup.
Why fool with the $25 Summit kit when you can get a chrome one wire 120 AMP new alternator from DB Electrical for $65 with warranty.Maybe Rocky can post a pic of His on the Y-block.
Jeff, I'm just recommending something based on experience. But you're right, the DB 1-wire is a great deal for a new alternator. http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4418-...-wire-alternator-105-amp-adr0335-10si-se.aspx
YEAH! THATS WHERE I GOT IT! Man, I couldnt find it anywhere to save my life! I'll get that pic tomorrow. Its a pretty nice alternator. And I just picked up the alternator bracket from Mummert. My home made bracket just aint cuttin it.
i bought mine from autozone for like $60 and i used a stock alternator bracket and a piece of pipe for a spacer. been running it for 5 years. only problem i have is not being able to connect my Generator warning light but ron francis makes a kit for one wire alt's now.
Actually you do not want to hook up the alternator to the OEM Generator light if you do please have a fire extingusher available.Your original "idiot" light was made for DC current max amps of 40,your alternator which is AC current requires a volt meter.
Rocky check out psychobilly 57's post from 5/2 above,you can probably turn that new one wire and be a few bucks ahead and end up with the Mummert bracket.
I already have the mummert bracket. If I would have waited another week and seen this post, I would have been all over that. However, I just bought a 54 merc dash so I'm kind of out of money right now. Thanks for the heads up though.
If you decide to customize your '54 Merc dash with laminated custom knobs, Rocky, I need the four stock heater control knobs...the ones that look like space ship levers. Just the knobs, not the levers...
I will be getting rid of them and they are yours. (If they are even on there still). Bought it from a guy in north dakota. Still waiting on it...
I never understood the hangup on a 1 wire alternator. I have a couple and the last one I put in my daughters car I ran a second wire so that it would turn on. One wire units sense the rpm and turn on around 1500 rpm. That means at an idle they don't put out anything. At the most it is 3 wires and other than the larger cable to the battery the other two wires can usually be hooked to your original wiring. If you are using a volt gauge vs an amp gauge then you only need 1 extra wire to turn the thing on.
I just found this on the site that Jeff posted earlier for the cheaper alt . I found the Ford one wire set up that is very costly BUT it shows the way they wired it up for a on wire . I am wondering if id did it the same way it would work ? Here is the link with the alt and enlarge the picture with the way it's rewired . http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4702-...mp-high-output-alternator-1965-1992-7749.aspx Will this work so I can use the alts I have now ????? Jim
Use the bracket I gave you and change the spacer length if needed. I have used a newer Ford alt and wired it similar to the diagram above and it worked fine. I am not at home so I can't dig it out but essentially you just need a 12v source to turn the alt on.
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