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1952-59 Ford front end lowering kit

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Oldskoolbelair, May 27, 2011.

  1. Oldskoolbelair
    Joined: Apr 6, 2006
    Posts: 50

    Oldskoolbelair
    Member

  2. bigshawn
    Joined: Jul 5, 2010
    Posts: 82

    bigshawn
    Member

    I just went to autozone and used the aerostar springs it lowered it pretty good for me dont know about using the spacers and springs together but I think I have heard of a some guys doing it.
     
  3. EchoOfGecko
    Joined: Aug 4, 2010
    Posts: 254

    EchoOfGecko
    Member

    Seems like a lot of money for what you could make with some 1" square tube and a drill.

    Here's some pics of what they do (stolen from another thread)...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. old lady's mad
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 169

    old lady's mad
    Member

    ive got them in mine , much better ride along with the lowering it. love them.
     
  5. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    I notice in the ebay kit it comes with grade 5 bolts,I think the 1" square tube and grade 8 bolts from Ace would be about half the price and no shipping either.I think there are some additional pictures posted here in the Social Group archives.
     
  6. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,853

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Why pay more for alum when steel does the same thing and is a lot cheaper ! If you have a Tractor Supply around you , then buy your grade 8 hardware there . They charge by the pound and is way cheaper that way too . Make sure you buy a good quality drill bit too . bet you won't break $30 to $35 for the kit .
    Those kits on ebay are for lazy people with money to burn !

    Jim
     
  7. Oldskoolbelair
    Joined: Apr 6, 2006
    Posts: 50

    Oldskoolbelair
    Member

    I was thinking you could make it pretty easy. I have areostar springs wasent sure how well they would work together
     
  8. Custom_Crestline
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 542

    Custom_Crestline
    Member

    The Advantage to the aluminum spacer kit (Mine was like 40 bucks from night prowlers four years ago), is that you don't have to drill a damn thing. Its knock the rivets out, put the spacer in, and put the grade 8 hardware and lock nuts on. Lazy or not, its not a job for the light hearted. You'll for sure need a big ball peen, or an air chisel, as those rivits are a beezy to knock out.

    All in all, I've got cut coils and a-arm spacers, and the ride is okay, and it sits okay.
     
  9. flyboy89
    Joined: Oct 6, 2010
    Posts: 451

    flyboy89
    Member
    from So. Cal.

    If anyone is going to make their own lowering blocks, don't use tubing! I" square bar stock is what you need.
     
  10. carnut341
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 151

    carnut341
    Member

    I've run the areostar springs for over a year and they are great! The front is a little higer than with the cut coils but it rides so much better. Aerostar coils lower the car about 2 1/2 inches.
     
  11. GREENBIRD56
    Joined: May 11, 2008
    Posts: 75

    GREENBIRD56
    Member
    from Tucson, AZ

    Flyboy89 is on the right track - use solid aluminum stock. There is a web site called "online metals" and they will sell you 1" square aluminum for a decent deal. Even cut it to length if you want such a service. The Grade 8 capscrews can crush steel thinwall tubing and lose your clamping preload.
     
  12. Paul Selfe
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 19

    Paul Selfe
    Member Emeritus

    BigShawn; I have been thinking about using the Aerostar springs in my 56. Did you have to re-align, and if so, how much did it throw off your alignment. Paul Selfe.
     
  13. gregk
    Joined: May 7, 2009
    Posts: 31

    gregk
    Member
    from BC Canada

    If you use the aerostar coils, what do you need for shocks? With the ***ociated drop in the front end, the shock length would be effected.
     
  14. bigshawn
    Joined: Jul 5, 2010
    Posts: 82

    bigshawn
    Member

  15. flattopdan
    Joined: Sep 25, 2007
    Posts: 118

    flattopdan
    Member

    i just put them in my wifes 55 2 weeks ago and they worked out perfect. didnt change the alignment at all. amd the ride is great. just as good as stock. i went with the shocks in the above built thread and everything works great. i cant weigh in much on the using the spacers much but have thought about putting them in her car as well. i wouldnt think it would change that much. but i am going to wait till the spring settle all the way and see where it sits.
     
  16. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,853

    Retro Jim
    Member

    For the rivets , a grinder or cut off wheel will work just fine too and will save you from swinging the BFH !
    And YES , ALWAYS use a solid bar with grade 8 bolts, nuts & lock washers for spacers ! I think the springs would really be the better way to go in the long run ! Better handling is always the best way to go !

    Jim
     
  17. Paul Selfe
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 19

    Paul Selfe
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks much for the info and PN's, thats a big help. Paul Selfe.
     
  18. 55vickie
    Joined: Mar 20, 2010
    Posts: 41

    55vickie
    Member

    You don't have to go to solid square stock iron on these. 1/4 wall square tube stock is more than adequate and is thicker that much of the stock suspension parts in many cars. The aluminum is easier to drill but much more $$.
     
  19. GREENBIRD56
    Joined: May 11, 2008
    Posts: 75

    GREENBIRD56
    Member
    from Tucson, AZ

    Here is a link to "Online Metals" ....they are a "reliable source"my company has used many times.

    http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1116&step=4&showunits=inches&id=999&top_cat=60

    There is a set of '56 a-arms in my shop and it will take (4) - 1" sq x 4 x 9 inch long aluminum bars to do the job. Online will charge you $16 and shipping for enough material (36") to do a '56.

    There is no such thing as 1/4 wall x 1 inch welded steel tubing - and trust me, three x 1/4 SAE Grade 8 capscrews will crush a 9 inch length of the 1/8 wall mild steel square that is common. Be safe.

    The one inch dropping spacer is about one half of the way out from the hinge bolt to the wheel center - so the spindle moves up in the wheel house twice the thickness of the spacer .......If you have already done some other lowering tricks - the shorter coils, low profile tires, etc. - you can end up very, very, very low.
     
  20. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 688

    LostHope
    Member

    so 2 1/2 inch drop spindles ,the 1 inch spacers ,and the aerostar springs combined together will give you around 7 inchs of drop for the front end ????? hmmmmm......might try it..:eek:
     
  21. GREENBIRD56
    Joined: May 11, 2008
    Posts: 75

    GREENBIRD56
    Member
    from Tucson, AZ

    In that case....Please visit the NASCAR site for advice about bump stops and spring rubbers...... :)
     
  22. riskybiz
    Joined: May 27, 2009
    Posts: 146

    riskybiz
    Member

    Forget the spacers aero springs if you want to drop it Bag it!!! The ride is better and smoother. With a flip of a ****on you can drop it to lay frame or up to ride height. Thats how we roll in Cali.
     
  23. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 755

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

    Did you just use the regular bag kit or make your own?? Air ride used to show a setup but on their new site there is nothing for the 56. That is what I would like for my 56.
     
  24. Custom_Crestline
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 542

    Custom_Crestline
    Member

    The obvious problem with '54 ford front suspension and air bags, is relocating the shocks. I'd really like to see a set up with stock suspension using bags.

    Also, Retro Jim, that will get the head of the rivet off yes, but a BFH is still needed to knock the rust of the ****** out!
     

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