i know of a few options for this, but i would like to see what everyone has done for the linkage from the pedal up to the carb. thanks Jason
ill take a pic of mine but it aint perty. another i didnt do it. ive not changed it yet. they took the original 302 throtle cable and bracket and just cut off the firewall end and tied it to the original 55 pedal rod asy. im going to change it to the proper way of using a cable. but could just as easy use a rod on mine.
I have several pictures of mine,send me an email and I'll send them to you. I do have one in my Album here showing the Lokar throttle and TV cables.
1 Ford fan, here's a link on posting pictures. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...discussionid=18102&gmid=327154#gmessage327154
On my '62 F-100 with fuel injection I used a Lokar throttle cable and pedal. Mounted the pedal to the firewall with nutserts and ran the cable through a hole in the firewall. Used the factory Ford FI with the factory bracket. Very simple to do. The truck does use an electronic trans though, so no kick down cable or lever. Lokar had the right throttle cable for my application. (4.6 2v w/ 4R70W trans.)
for the efi guys.. what tank did you use. a modified new one or were you able to reuse your old tank with little or no mods. did you use maf or mas system? what computer did you use or do you have a stand alone system.
I did an efi 66 Fairlane once and just used an external Walbro pump (like they did on the fox body Mustangs) along with the Mustang fuel filter. I ran a new fuel return line and piped it into the fuel inlet that goes into the tank.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=28053 a couple of pictures in my album testing hope they are viewable Gerry
I had a custom tank made and had 2 fuel lines added to it, one pressure, one return.Used a frame mounted Bosch fuel pump and an in-line fuel filter. The 4.6 Ford engine uses a m*** air system. Also used a Ford ecm and had it modified by The Detail Zone (Ron Francis Wire Works). Used a firewall mounted by-p*** fuel pressure regulator too. I used a custom tank because I moved it from behind the seat to under the bed behind the rear axle.
I used basically original parts of the '54 gas pedal and modified them to fit my application. The parts with the red X's were eliminated. A couple of swivel rod ends and a piece of rod I picked up at the local Ace Hardware,I then cut and tapped to the correct size. That was all it took to connect the original parts to my Elderbrock carburetor. HRP '54 Ranch Wagon build photos
hrp, i would like to use that setup, only mine has an aod which needs to incorporate the kickdown. i dont think that setup will work for me.....looks nice though!!
This bracket ****s:http://lokar.com/product-pgs/mounting-brackets/bracket-pages/spring-return.html SRK-4000 The chrome on the bracket being slick and it being held down by one stud allows it to move and messes with an AOD's throttle pressure BAD!! pay a few extra bucks and get this one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-Bille...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4852f6ed7c&vxp=mtr Since it is held down by both rear bolts it will not move.
Bob Drake makes a replacement tank B5A-9002 its on sale for $172.00. This tank also gives you a couple extra gallons at 19.5 and comes with extended straps for mounting. Perfect set up for EFI. My new tank is going in this week.
Here's mine using the Lokar item Jeff posted the ebay link to. My pedal then has a linkage that goes through the toe board and connects to the other end of the cable.
I wasted several hours trying to modify stock AOD linkage to work,had the Lokar in and adjusted in about 45 minutes.You can fry an AOD in less than 10 minutes if adjusted wrong it just is not worth it to take the gamble.Here is a video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZwsQViZilQ It works the same for the Holley which I had on before.Harbor Freight now gets $26 for the gauge set though.
I strongly agree with jeff about the lokar carb bracket..you'll want to overtighten it to keep it from moving which is bad..and setting up the lokar is easy but very crucial. you need the gap tool and a gauge to get the kickdown psi just right..once it's done it's beautiful!
Lightly hit the underside of the bracket with a grinding wheel and add a star washer to the base to give it some grip will help.