Well, still trying to pinpoint where my tip-in hesitation issues are stemming from. I think in the end it will have been a combination of issues, really. But, the gas tank was replaced about a month ago. Next up is to rebuild the carb, again Any suggestions on where to get the highest quality rebuild kit available? The one we used last year was from NAPA. I didn't see any obvious issues with it. However I've read in the past about poor quality power valves with a lot of these kits. I haven't torn back into the carb yet, but I'm thinking that a bad power valve may also be part of the issue. If they're all about the same, I'll simply get another one from NAPA.
What kind of Carb? NAPA parts are usually a**** the best. Often, you can buy just the accelerator pumps. If you spray both sides of the new gaskets with WD 40 they can be used several times. Did you get the pump adjusted right? Check for vacuum leaks?
To my knowledge we had the carb adjusted correctly and working. Thing is, the tip-in problem went away for a couple of weeks before returning. So I thought fuel tank crud or power valve. I know there was crud in the fuel tank (I had a gl***-tube type fuel filter and could see it). However the tank's been replaced and the tip-in is still a problem. So next step is power valve. Ok, so NAPA is a good way to go. That's good to hear....I appreciate the feedback. Oh yea, it's the original 2V....Holley 94 I think (?) with the dual-vacuum advance to the distributor. I've heard a couple of things with this set-up: 1: that power valves can go quickly and 2: that timing can be difficult to get correct if you're not experienced with it. At least that's what I've heard. SOOO....if it's not the power valve this go around, I think the next likely place to look is the timing (?).
i just ordered a kit from napa too. maybe we can help each other out if we run into any issues. i am gonna start on it next week
I bought mine from MACS and never had a problem ! I have bought from them many times and Speedway . Always got what I wanted for a good price , fast delivery and never a problem or back orders ! I have had enough problems with the local parts stores with all the cheap chinese parts and I know I get them from the catalogs too but have had a lost less problems with parts I order on line ! Just my opinion ! Jim
I also just used a rebuild kit from mac's and I was happy with it. I chose them as a source because they had the float, and other places didn't. I always like to replace the float just cause.
rebuilt with the napa kit today - 1st time - took me a few hours but next time it will go quicker - i am back on the road now but i think i need to make some adjustments - it is hard to start and seems a little rich. i will fiddle with it somemore tomorrow. the 52-54 shop manual was a huge help
I agree with " flathat " Daytona Parts Company is the absolute best their is in the U.S.A. Cadillac Dave
I got my power valves from vintage speed they make them to seat properly some of the new ones dont fit quite right
A friend of mine got his rebuild kits from Vintage Speed . He called him up and they set him up with everything he needed for his 2x2 set up . Kits and parts were very good quality too . Jim
Hi all....I wanted to resurrect this thread now that we'll be working on this throttle hesitation issue again. Ok, I've been sitting on a 2nd rebuild kit in case that becomes necessary (bad power valve maybe?). If we ***ume that it's not necessary, then we now have new plugs/wires, gas tank, and a rebuilt carb over the past couple of summers, and some pretty bad tip in hesitation. So I'm thinking there may be a timing issue. Any tips/pointers on how to tune this setup? It's the stock carb and distributor on the original 272. I've heard they can be finicky to tune correctly but would appreciate any specifics you can give.
Look at this link before you make any decisions... http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/...ey-94-two-barrel-for-late-model-distributors/ It covers an easy modification to a 94 carb that will allow you to use a 57-64 Y block distributor that would have vacuum and mechanical advance. The setup you have now, is original of course, but it is a dog for fuel mileage and performance. The distributor advance works ONLY on the vacuum signal from that particular carburetor. It is very easy to find a new distributor... just tell the brick and mortar store in your town you want a distributor for a 1964 F100, 292 V8, and go through a myriad of questions that don't mean anything. When the part gets delivered to your box store, go pick it up, examine it and make sure it is a Y block distibutor just in case the teenager behind the counter hit a wrong ****on. The new distributor will come with an installed set of points and a condenser. You will have to get a new cap and rotor. This setup will work well on your car... believe me.
First off, thanks danman55! Now, I'd still really appreciate tips/pointers from the community on how to properly tune the orginal set-up, because that's really the way I'm probably going to go. BUT, say I were to change out the distributor, this one at MAC's (http://macsautoparts.com/ford-picku...2-v8-12127-2109/camid/FPU/cp/JS0R3CHL1103291/) part#12127-2109 is the one I'd need? No issues on a 6 volt car? Gosh, if I did that (and again, I'm probably not going to) it may just give me the excuse I need to get the Mummert 4-barrel intake and just get a new carb!
Metal Ghost, The points and condenser will work fine for 6 volts on that distributor you looked at. It is all in the coil and battery that you use when it comes to ignition. About tuning the original load-a-matic 55 and 56 Ford distributors... you cannot make any adjustments to the vacuum advance. It is your only ignition advance on those original setups, and it is either working or not. Your carburetor needs to be clean and clear at every orifice, especially the vacuum port because that is the only signal sent to the distributor. You will bog down under heavy retard if it is not working properly. How old is your distributor and its vacuum advance? One other thing that is finicky on a 94 series carb is the throttle shaft. They like to wear an oblong hole in the base of the carb. This "steals" a little bit of vacuum from your engine and makes the idle fun to play with. The 94's are not that difficult to rebuild. I have done 10 to 15 of them myself. They are actually quite rugged all things considered. Oh yes,,, on the kits. I like Daytona parts company the best as well, although they are not always the cheapest. Napa and Carquest are not too bad if I am in a hurry.
The nice thing about the Daytona kits is that the needle and seat that they come with is an ingenious design. I used one on the Carter ABD in the Lincoln and love it.
How likely is it that the Distributor Vacuum Advance (Part# FAB-12370A) is part of the problem? Not very? Or should I maybe order up a part?
I would recommend testing that vacuum advance. Take a hose and attach it to the vacuum advance *** on the distributor and then hook the other end to a vacuum pump. put some vacuum on it, say several pounds or so, and then see if "leaks down" at all. If it does leak down, then you know that vacuum advance diaphragm is ruptured. It's a shame, but in today's world, it is hard to find a place that will test your distributor for you. Those old Sun machines are pretty expensive.
I wanted to send out a quick update on this. First of all, huge thanks to tbill, who spend the better part of yesterday workin' on this whole rough running/tip-in hesitation issue. So, as is often the case, there was actually a mul***ude of things going on here that needed attention. First off, the vacuum advance wasn't holding any vacuum at all. Not even that it was leaking down quickly....it was basically zero. So, that gets replaced. Still not running right though....idle evens out, but only with the mix screws in all the way. So take off the carb and it's got junk in it again. Well, I'm not too surprised about that since the gas tank was replaced last year for a reason. I guess if anything it was a good confirmation that it really did need replacing. But so we're standing there while there's still gas in the bowl and, wouldn't you know it, a slow but steady stream of gas keeps coming down into the TB. The damn power valve that was replaced last year is leaking. Glad you guys suggested Daytona, 'cause we had the Daytona rebuild kit at the ready this time. Long story short, with new advance and the carb all done up, I think we're almost there. I've never heard her sound this good. Still a bit of that tip in hesitation, so considering everything I just said was done if you guys have any ideas please chime in. Because I'm still eager to get that sorted out. But even with that it sounds like a new car (funny how that'll happen when things are sorted out....go figure!).
danman55 , I actually got a y block dizzy through Advance Auto . I just go online and do the search myself , then order it and have them ship to my local store and get parts that way . Then I don't need to have some smart *** kid that owns a ****-box tuner that is trying to figure out what a Y block engine really is ! I am very lucky at my local Advance Auto because the managers Dad owns a 56 Ford so I can get anything I need for a Y block ! When he sees me walk in he always calls me by name and waits on me so I don't have to go through all the BS from some damn kid behind the counter . If he isn't there then I go back to the Business counter because I have a business rebuilding engines at my home on the side and he know what I am talking about also . If not he tells me where the whatever parts I am trying to make work and says just pick out what parts you want and bring them up when you are done . Other than that place there is one other REAL parts store in town where they still bring out the catalouges and try to find parts for me that way . But the next time you need something , just look up the parts on lines and have them deliver to your local Advanced Auto . It's the best way to get the correct parts you need ! Jim
When I was a "kid", my first job was at an auto parts store, and this was right before the time of the computer "fix all" craze that is now standard fare at most auto stores. I had to learn numbers, engines, makes, models, etc. Taught me a lot. You could tell the old timers appreciated it too. Made a real difference when the computers came around for parts look up. Suddenly, most of the worker base's average age changed from about 45 to about 19 or 20. You can imagine what that was like. And to think I got laughed at because I drove a car that was "old", knew my stuff (yep... even chebbies), etc. I could look up, reference, or even memory pull parts off a shelf faster than most of the new kids on the block using their computers.
Quick question: am I right in thinking that with the hold-down removed, the distributor should come up pretty easily?
yes, theoretically you are right. If you cannot spin the distributor easily to reset your timing, then you will have a difficult time with removal. Most of the time, it is the collar of the distributor as it meets the boss in the block that rust-welds or corrodes enough to make it tight. Heat works wonders...
You can also tap on the vacuum very lightly to loosen it up that way . Then take and spray all around the distributor where it meets the intake with your best favorite lube for rusted bolts . That will get some of the crud loosened up ....sometimes . I did have a 289 once where the distributor was stuck in the engine and I couldn't get it out for anything . I did get it loose to set the timing but I couldn't get the damn thing to come out no matter what I did to it ! Jim
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