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COE 57 Chevy LCF crew cab update

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by buggy5872, Sep 5, 2011.

  1. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    I am moving along good on my project. I am about 80% done with the cab fab work. need to finish the b pillars, finish floor bracing, finish p***enger rear door and make driver rear door. Seems like a lot to finish but with what I have already completed, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. hoping for end of September to be in finish primer and ready to set it on the ch***is. Check out my progress. http://rides.webshots.com/album/580587250vqfuun
     
  2. vintage56
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 485

    vintage56
    Member

    ROCK ON!!!
    looking great.
    JML
     
  3. kooscoe
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 171

    kooscoe
    Member

    Yes looking Great. Cool Project.
     
  4. DEZEL INGEN
    Joined: Jan 5, 2009
    Posts: 20

    DEZEL INGEN
    Member

    lots of time an talent. gonna be a great ride
     
  5. fabmancoe
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 62

    fabmancoe
    Member

    Nice work...very cool
     
  6. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    Thanks for all the comments. I cant wait to get it done.
     
  7. vintage56
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 485

    vintage56
    Member

    say, what's going on w/ the rear doors? can you talk a little bit about that daunting fab work?
    JML
     
  8. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,969

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    Looking good! Did you fit the cab to your ch***is before you extended it? I am planning to "crew" my Ford cab, so any pics, tips and tricks are appreciated. Keep us updated.
     
  9. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    vintage56,
    The rear doors are two doors from opposite sides using the rear portion of both. the doors on the 55-59 chevy trucks get narrower towards the front. I had to slice and dice them to get the body lines to come out correct. I used the rear protion from the opposite door so I could use an original b pillar flipped around backwards and the door edge would be correct. There is a lot of fab in the rear doors and b pillar area. I have almost all the pasengerside complete at this point. I did most of the fab to the b pillar and under cab bracing this weekend. I will post up some more pics later this week.


    RMR&C,

    I did not fit the cab to the new ch***is before I extended it. I built a rack that is the same width as the new ch***is and have the original frame mounts bolted to it. the theory is that if it all lines up and fits on the rack then it should fit on the new ch***is. the front floor section and lower firewall were pretty butchered from someone getting he original engine out. I am going to cut the floor pan and firewall so it will fit down over the engine in the new ch***is. Once the body is set down on the ch***is, then I will fab the new floor pan. I have a bead roller and metal brake which make the fab work a lot easier. The front axle track width is 4" wider than the orginal so it will fit no problem. My biggest hurdle is going to be the steering box. It is way out on the end of the frame and it might end up being tight against the back of my bumper. Wont know for sure until the cab makes its way on the ch***is. I'll just be happy to be that far to be worring about the steering box.
     
  10. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    Vintage56,
    I posted some pics of the b pillar. finished with fab work on the p***enger side and started on the driver side today. Should go quicker since I know what to make now.
     
  11. vintage56
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 485

    vintage56
    Member

    yep yep. that's the answers I anticipated. looking great! thanks for sharing and definitely keep us up on it.
    JML
     
  12. kooscoe
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 171

    kooscoe
    Member

    Realy admire your craftsmanschip. Very fast work to. You make A great looking Cab. Have fun Building:D:D:D
     
  13. vintage56
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 485

    vintage56
    Member

    heya buggy, how many hours do you have into that cab thus far?
    JML
     
  14. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    if you ask my wife......too many.....I would say somewhere around 125 to 150 range. not really sure. That time includes cutting up the panel I needed the roof from. I was hoping for primer by the end of September but that did not happen. Now that most of the fab work is done......it should go quicker.
     
  15. Donnda
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 174

    Donnda
    Member

    Hey Buggy, Any updates? So far this is a nice build. Got both sides done?
    -Donn-
     
  16. derrick1032
    Joined: May 11, 2009
    Posts: 80

    derrick1032
    Member

    Cool build. I am about to attempt a similar build for myself, and was wondering what u used for the roof sections?
     
  17. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    Donnda...I have both side fabed at this point. I still have some bracing to finish on the underside. I got tired of fab work and started doing some body work. I have the post done between the two doors on the p***enger side and have about 90% of the roof done. I have tons of time in getting the roof straight. I know it will rearly seen due to the height of this thing but I want it to look good when somone does see it. Of course I had to make it hard on myself too since it will be black.

    Derrick1032....I used a pane truck roof.
     
  18. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    Got the roof blend finished and in primer today. threw some more pics on my webshots. Check them out.
     
  19. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,969

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    Wow, your cab is looking great! Nice work...
    Can't wait to see it all together!
     
  20. Donnda
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 174

    Donnda
    Member

    Man, That is looking good. Is the ch***is going to be long enough with the cab on it to give the 5th wheel enough room to go 90 degrees?
    What engine and trans is in that donor truck? Going to have enough power to tow that big 5er?
     
  21. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    I have to move the axle back 8" to give me enough room. probably a good excuse to put air ride back there. It has a 350 with a 4L80E ******. It has 5:38 gears so there should be plenty of power. I have a friend that is good with tuning the computers to get the most power out of it. No rocket but it should be fine. The camper is designed to be towed by a 1/2 ton so it is a lite weight for its size.
     
  22. vintage56
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 485

    vintage56
    Member

    I wouldnt pull a Chaparal w/ a 1/2 ton! not here in Oklahoma. 30mph winds are a "breeze" about 50 days a year...
    roof looks fabulous, btw.
    JML
     
  23. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    I agree with you. Coachman says it half ton towable....I would never tow something that big with a 1/2 ton. I liked that it was lighter than others the same size.
     
  24. kooscoe
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 171

    kooscoe
    Member

    Thanks fore the new photo's:) Love your project:)
    Where do the blue front door come from?? You started with the grey doors:confused:
    Have fun Building:cool:
     
  25. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    They were some rust free doors from Montana. Mine were shot. I could not believe I found a set. I paid less for these than doors for a standard truck. they are off a gmc so nothing else off the truck was usable to me.
     
  26. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    Posted some more pics. I got the under floor bracing done, pulled out the temporary bracing welded inside and painted it. I also made the frame mounts that will go under the middle of the cab. Not sure I need them because the cab does not even flex when I jump up and down inside of it but I will put them in anyhow. While that was drying, I started messing around with the 03 GMC. By the time I was done, all the wiring was out of the cab and I pulled the cab off. I test fitted the front clip and have some work to do on the steering box. I think I will be able to tilt it back 25 degrees to get it to work out. At least it works out on paper.
     
  27. Donnda
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 174

    Donnda
    Member

    Tilt the steering back 25deg and bend the steering arm 25deg?
     
  28. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    The steering shaft came straight down through the floor in the gmc and is pointing straight up at the front edge ofthe fender. I can not get the fender to sit on correctly the way it is now. if I tilt the box back it will do 2 things. Make it so I can bolt the steering shaft on and move it back about 3 inches so it clears the fender. The drag link will remain in the same position so no bump steer.
     
  29. Donnda
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 174

    Donnda
    Member

    Buggy, Will you post some pictures on how you do this? I think it might benefit some of us that are doing the opposite trying to get a real slanted pickup gear to stand up more.
     
  30. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80

    buggy5872
    Member

    This will only work if it is not independent front suspension. The drag link from the pitman arm to the steering knuckle has to run the length of the frame. Most pickup boxes have the pitman arm the connects directly to the draglink going from wheel to wheel and there is really no way to change the angle of the box.
     

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