1952-59 Ford Versailles parts on a '55 Ford

I posted someting similar over on the main board but it sounds like you guys are the spe******ts!
I have managed to get the Lincoln home and, after pulling the ignition switch, I have managed to get it running today! It has the 351 and the motor actually sounds good and after a little carb adjustment, it runs pretty good (for what it is).
It is a '77 and is complete although the interior is trash and it has plenty of rust in the body.
The 351 and engine compt looks like all of the factory parts are intact...except it has an edelbrock "performer 351" intake.

Anyway, I would like to use as much of the lincoln on my 55 customline. I know the front spindles and rear 9" wil work but has anyone used the steering AC/heat (its all under dash) or anything else?
Thanks!

 

Actually you can use the entire drive train . The drive shaft will need to be re sized . You can use the steering column if you want to and use a coupler or rag joint to attach to the 55 steering box . Tilt steering is really nice . You should be able to get the A/C and adapt it under the dash since the 55 dash I think has more room . You can also use the complete wiring harness as well . The front end and power steering will be really nice as well as the power brakes .
Personally I would take everything off the Lincoln and use it on the 55 . If you gut the 55 so it will be easy to work on much better . You can loosen the dash at the corners so you can pull the dash up some and work under the dash easier . You will have to loosen the steering column from the dash so you can pull the dash up to work under . I would remove anything I can under the dash to make the installation much easier of the A/C & heating unit . It will take some time but you are going to have a really nice running 55 Ford when it's done ! I would even take all the bulbs as well since the 55 was a 6v electric system .
Just take your time when dismantling the donor car and TAG & BAG EVERYTHING ! If the interior is any good you can use the electric seats too maybe !
If it has electric windows , strip those parts as well and make them work on the 55 .
There is a lot of really great parts you can use with some alterations to adapt to the 55 !
Good Luck with your project and donor car for all the parts to build your 55 into a really sweet cruiser !
You can even use the roof for floors and trunk repairs too . The trunk lid is another fairly flat piece of metal to use for rust repairs too .

Jim

 

The power steering is easily adapted to the '54-'56 Fords.

Click on my user name and look at my pictures, you will find the plans to make this conversion. I think the same plans were posted by another user here in this forum but I don't remember where.

 

Thanks! I am getting the car apart slowly but steady. Nothing like 35 year old rust and grease! If things go well Ill have the motor and trans out tomorrow along with the front spindles.
Mark, Is there a way to get a copy of that power steering swap that I can read? If I blow that one up I can't read it.
On the A/C...Is there any particular way that I need to break the system down to keep from ruining the internals? I'll store it upstairs in the garage.
Thanks Guys!

 

Send me a private message with your email and I'll send you a scanned image of it.

When you break down that A/C unit, make sure you plug all of the hoses and anything else that will allow contamination in. Maybe use small rubber plugs or corks then duct tape them over for storage.

 

I have the lincoln stripped and the body is gone to junk.
I have the front spindles ready to install but when the lower ball joints are tightened I run out of threads before the castle nut bottoms. The castle is also too low to catch the pin.
The taper seems to fit tight. Has anyone had this going on? Did a couple of washers do the trick?
Thanks,

 

This link won't get the exact size you want on the first try - but this sort of collar is often found at local hardware stores. You can sometimes find a perfect match to the spacer height you need....

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0403311

The solid steel ring is better than a stack of washers for sure.

 

Br***spike

I made some spacers out of a thick piece of teflon. They work great.

 

Make sure that the washers or spacer you use under the ball joint nut are hardened.

 

Got the hardened ones at fastenal. $2.50 a pop!

 

I am moving on with the swap. I have the spindles done but decided to redo the bushings and ball joints. I have everything blasted and painted but still need to get the bushings pressed in.
I decided to bite the bullet and go ahead with the versailles 9 inch and four wheel disc swap too. I have the rear in the car but have to change the ratio and add a posi. Interestingly the Versailles drive shaft even works with the T-10 that I already hav e in the car!
I do have one concern. The rear shocks that I bought seem to be to short and the old ones are gone now. The shocks are bottomed out with the weight on the car.
Does anyone know what the length of the rear shocks are supposed to be?

 

br***spike - I don't know about the shocks, sorry...but did the Versailles rear end bolt right in for you or did you have to move the spring perches?

 

Bolted in perfectly! Next comes getting the emergency brake stuff to work. I just ran out of "gas" tonight.
The 9" looks like a big truck rear compared to the stocker.

 

On my 55 Fairlane I bought mine from a guy on ebay years ago . I got gas shocks for the front and air shocks for the rear . he told me they were from a full size car .

Jim

 

I would show you the pictures but I can't seem to post pictures here.

 

Cool! I had heard they were easy to install but never saw any real elaboration past that. On the HAMB, sometimes easy does not mean what one would think it means. At least for a mere mortal like myself.

 

I'm working slowly but have gotten a lot done. The Versailles is gone but a lot of the parts are still here.
I have the new rotors and spindles on from the Lincoln. I put power brakes on and ran new lines from the 4 wheel disc proportioning valve.
The 9" is bolted in and the center section is being rebuilt. I was able to turn the rear rotors and found rebuilt calipers. Rear brake hoses had to be made$$. I replaced all of the front end bushings and rebuilt the front cross member. Made new mounts for the GM 3 wire.
I used a lot of the Versailles parts, odds and ends.
I had the following problems;
The lower ball joint fit the taper but was not threaded far enough down so I will have to use a 1/4 inch spacer under the nut. Even then I will have to use something to get the nut up to the cotter pin, maybe a second nut.
Now I have another problem in that the outer tie rods do not fit up into the taper of the Lincoln spindle far enough. The opposite problem as the lower ball joint.
Will the Versailles tie rod ends fit the 55 tie rods?
Do we have to use a third party to post pictures here?

 

Make sure you use a hardened spacer or spacers to raise up the castle nut so you can use the cotter pin.

I think you were supposed to use the Lincoln tie rod ends but I'm not 100% sure, I think they will work on the original tie rods. I used Granada spindles on mine and the original '55 tie rod ends worked for me. You could ream the Lincoln spindles to fit the '55 tie rod ends.

 

"br***spike Do we have to use a third party to post pictures here?"

You can use something like photobucket or you can post to an album on your profile here and then copy them to the thread. Here's a link on how to post pics.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...discussionid=18102&gmid=327154#gmessage327154

 

This is the Versailles rear installed in the ford. I used the ford u bolts and spring plate. I had caliper hoses made and still have to get the axle hose done. The Lincoln hose was too short. Center section is still out for gears and posi.

 

The front end is almost complete. I ran new brake lines from the booster master proportioning valve (from the donor) because the Lincoln calipers fed from the front.

 

The Versaills getting ready to give up the goods.

 

Check the lower ball joint nut! The taper appears correct but the stud is about 1/8 inch above the spindle and, as you can see, the stud is too long to catch the castle nut. I'm working on that. Also the taper in the tie rod is not correct. Working on that one also.

 

Am I the only one not seeing any pics?

 

Go to the Y-blocks forever web site,in the archives there is an extensive article on the Versailles disc brake swap that will tell you how to all about the ball joints and spindle mods.

 

I can't see them on any other computer. Looks like I need to stay away from posting pictures!
When I get time, I'll try again.

 

Do you guys have pictures now?

 

Still no pics. Where do you have them stored? If you can provide a link, someone can post them here for you.
Can you upload them to an album here on the H.A.M.B.?

 

No pictures.

A hardened spacer or spacers will raise the castle nut so you can use the cotter pin hole.

The taper for the tie rod can be corrected with a tapered ream, most machine shops can do this fairly cheap.

 

They are fine at work or on my droid. The album is on this site. It is a private album. Let me see if I can change that.