I pulled the 1984 351W out of my 54 Customline last week and now I"m contemplating if I should just clean the grease off the engine and slap her back in or do a rebuild. When it comes to a rebuild, I don't know my a** from a hole in the ground. Pretty much I will be learning as I go just as I have with everything else on this car. So the part I need advice about is what parts do I need for a rebuild. I don't want to make the engine a super power rocket that goes mach jesus. I have a car that is a custom, so if anything I just want my engine to be reliable and have a nice low rumble almost like a flathead. Currently I do still have points and I would like to change that out. Also the coil is a bit old and I would like to upgrade that as well. Last year I purchased an Edlebrock Endurashine Dual Quad performer series intake manifold and carburetor set up, but I was told by a friend that it would cause the engine to become sluggish if I put it on before changing the cam. I really like the look of the equipment and I'd like to have it on the engine. I'm looking for advice of what parts will keep the engine at a normal sound but not cause the engine to become sluggish. Obviously I don't want to spend and arm and a leg but I also understand that some things are just expensive. Also, how long should it take for a shop to clean and inspect the block or whatever they do to make sure its not jacked up? Thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully for advice too. -Steve
You might want to talk to these guys:http://www.tuffdawgengines.com/ford_351W_395hp.htm I am sure you could have them delete the intake that comes on it so you can use what you already have and specify you need a front sump oil pan for your '54,they have been around Phoenix almost 40 years and have a good reputation,I have bought parts from them and the crew there has always been helpful.Give them a call and ask questions there is also a milder version for a little less $$.They don't require a core which you could probably sell locally on craigslist and put some $$ back in your pocket
What ever you do take it to a place that specialized in Fords. No body can screw a Ford up better then a Chevy engine builder.
I pulled the engine because the motor mounts didn't work out as well as I had hoped, so I wanted to find out why. Also my oil pan gasket was leaking pretty bad and I needed to replace the gasket. Also, it was a pain to try and put the headers on while the engine was in the car. Besides, I'd never pulled an engine so it was a new thing that i wanted to try out. I'm kind of weird like that. There is a local place that a guy I know took his 312 Y block to and they did a phenomenal job rebuilding and painting. I would just use that place if I did have someone else clean up the engine for me. The guy paid $1700.00 for his to be cleaned up, rebuilt, and painted. By the way Jeff, thanks for the information. Its very tempting to do but I'm not sure if I'm at the point of just getting another engine. I don't think mine is toasted, I just think it wasn't well maintained and needs a good rebuild to make it awesome again. I had the transmission rebuilt because of necessity and I want to make sure the engine is good too. Also I would like to get the Edlebrock parts put on, but I don't want to screw the engine performance up either.
First off , is there anything performance wise that makes you want to consider rebuilding your engine ? I will highly suggest that when you replace the oil pan gasket , spend the extra money and buy the Fel Pro Blue rubber one piece pan gasket . Any Ford engine I rebuild for a customer I always use that gasket and you will not have any leaks again ! While the oil pan is off , take a look at the oil pump pick up screen and make sure it's very clean before you put it back together . If not you can replace the pick up tube very easily . Also if your oil pressure is maybe a little weak , you might want to think about replacing the oil pump with a new standard Melling oil pump . They are about $30 . DON'T buy a high volume pump either ! These are very easy thing to do while your oil pan is off . You might just as well replace the rear main seal as well . It's a lot easier than when the engine is in your car ! Honestly I wouldn't spend the money to rebuild an engine unless you are having issues with it . You can always take a simple compression test too while the engine is out . But if the engine was running very good before , Just remember the old saying , " If it ain't broke then don't fix it " ! I rebuild Ford engines from stock to full race and if you came to my garage asking about an engine rebuild I would ask you why do you want the engine rebuilt ? Is it using oil bad , doesn't the engine have much power anymore and how many miles is on the engine ? Those are the things I ask customers when they come to my garage asking about an engine rebuild ! It's your money and you can spend it how you want to but if the engine is running good with plenty of power and doesn't use a lot of oil , then just fix the leak and consider the gasket , rear main seal and maybe the oil pick up tube and pump while you are under there ! That's your choice and no one else's ! If you have questions about your engine or maybe some upgrades just send me a PM and I will be happy to answer all your questions ! Jim
I guess I should have mentioned this already, I replaced the gasket last weekend, and I did use the blue gasket that you speak of Jim. the screen on the pick up looked clean but the rest of the inside was grimy like there was ground coffee all over the journal and rods. I saw this same gunk on the rockers and valve springs months back when I had to replace the valve cover gaskets. The pistons and cylinders looked kind of greyish and I didn't see the cross hatch on the walls, but it was hard to tell with everything still in the engine. Also the engine is rusty inside and there is definite corrosion build up at the thermostat housing inlet. The main reason I want to rebuild it is the simple fact that the engine came to me with the car so I don't have any clue as to the actual milage on the engine, I just know that the casting number says its a 1984. The guy I bought the car from seemed to have slapped things together and let a ****er (me) come along and pay too much for it, so I just figure for a piece of mind kind of thing it would be better to have it rebuilt and know that there is nothing wrong with the engine. The only real problem that I've had is the points need replacing and the timing gets a bit out of wack. I guess its more that I'm worried about the engine taking a **** on me down the road and it being something that I could have stopped if I had rebuilt it instead of just putting it back in the car and saying its good since I don't feel there is a huge problem. Paranoia from not knowing much about this type of thing seems to get me most of the time. Steve
Another option is have the block bored,boiled out and honed new cam bearings installed and add these to get rid of the stocker dished cast pistons http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Sealed-...ies&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb812e819#ht_2281wt_905 add these so it can breathe http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=4520&cat=17&page=1 and this cam http://www.howardscams.com/index.ph...egory_id=444&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=114 (the 108 lobe center will make a slightly more wicked sound) pick up this book http://www.mre-books.com/engine/hp36.html and do it yourself.
If it runs fine I would just leave it alone. Even old motors can last quite a long time with low oil pressure etc. I am a don't fix it if it ain't broke kinda guy.
After contemplating all the information that you guys said, I decided to go with the majority for now and just leave well enough alone. Since I don't know that much about engines, I would like more information on how to go about figuring out what parts I will need in the future for my engine, but for now I'm just going to put it back in the car. So tomorrow I will put the engine back in the car and finish putting the steering box back too. Thank you everyone for the information and please keep it coming if you have an idea that will help out for my future plans with the type of cams and other things that I will need to help with managing the dual quad intake and carbs that I have. Also, thank you Jeff for the links to the different books. I had one but went to the book store and got another one that you suggested since knowledge is power.
First i wouldn't try installing multi carbs on the stock engine . It a low compression engine and will have trouble handling the extra flow . A simple 4 bbl intake with a 570 to 600 cfm carb will be plenty for now . You will need to replace the pistons , better cam , headers just to start with . Better flowing heads will help a lot also . To be honest like I posted before , if it's running good and not blowing oil , then enjoy the car ! I would just buy another donor engine and built that one then just swap the engines . That way you won't be waiting on the machinist and will have a running engine ready to install when it's complete ! There is nothing wrong with good used heads and some other parts . You can even find good used pistons as well . Still new ones are $150 a set . Now if you look around and pick up a 302/5.0 HO engine you will have forged pistons and heads that flow OK . They can be had fairly cheap and they are also roller cam engines which when rebuilt will last 200,000 miles and you can also use any of the newer synthetic oils as well . Yes it's a 302/5.0 but the parts a re a lot more common and cheaper than the 351w . Will be cheaper to build too since you have a better bottom end than the 351w has right now . Just a thought ! Jim
arent the explorer 5.0 heads better than stock? by stock, i mean like from crown vics, pickups and vans? or are they better than the mustang heads. i seem to recall reading an article about them somewhere as being a poor mans head swap/upgrade. or do i remember stuff differently as i age
dwaynerz - Explorers did have the GT40P heads. Not certain of the years...I think 97-01. Cobra Mustangs also used them at some point. They flow pretty well stock. The plugs do not have the angle you see on normal SBF heads, which causes clearance issues with most short headers on a couple of cylinders but I hear a lot of long tubes will clear them just fine.
Some Explorers had the GT-40P heads which flow OK however because of spark plug placement they will not fit most headers at all,the earlier regular GT-40 heads flow well too and plug placement is like any 289-302 head used pairs will generally sell around $250-$350 but by the time you have a machine shop freshen them up you could buy the heads I linked to above which are new and will far surp*** the GT heads by a bunch,Summit is now listing aluminum GT-40 heads though Ford Racing at around $895 a pair complete I would still lean toward the KMJ head as it uses stud mount rockers as I am not a big fan of the rail rockers where you use shims and in some cases special pushrods if you use an aftermarket cam.
Those are the GT40p heads and I wouldn't waist the money on them . Yes they are better but have fun using good headers on them . Shorty headers will not work because of the angle of the back spark plug . You either have to use the awful Mustang shorty headers or long tube headers . Depending on what you want to do with your engine , find a U pull it and look for the 96 Mustang Cobras . They have the great real GT40 heads on them and they flow great ! They will give you a fast 25+hp just to bolt them on . Bigger intake valves and better flow . If you re-work the heads some for better flow , you can get them to flow better and make 500+ hp easily ! Usually a set of those heads will run $500 to $800 used . A U pull it doesn't know the difference ! It's just a set of heads to them . Unless you are going to install a much bigger cam , the GT40p heads , E7 heads with little work , will work without headers just fine . If you tell us what you want from your engine performance wise , then we can help with the rest ! Now that's just my opinion ! Now if someone wants a great deal on a donor car for performance , I have the keys with good ***le to a 1984 Mustang that looks like junk because it has faded gray primer on it BUT has a 347 stroker with reworked GT40 heads , .550 Comp cam , Eagle forged bottom end , built C4 trans with a 3800 stall - no trans brake or reverse shift , 4.10 posi rear . Needs to be finished if you are going to race the car . I have driven the car myself and it's VERY , VERY FAST and will put a big smile on your face ! Will do low high 11's to low 12's on the street and has done low 10's at the track with race fuel and good slicks . That was the last time it was at the track . They wouldn't let the car race anymore due to no roll cage ! Went to fast ! If you want a good engine , trans and rear for another car this would really wake you up in a hurry . Idles good in drive so you wouldn't have to fight with it . The engine has maybe 500 miles on it , the trans and rear have 400 or less miles on it and was a street driven car ! Those miles weren't a 1/4 mile at a time ! I am selling the car for a Military ARMY Man ! I would buy it if I have the money . I can't build the engine for what he wants for the entire car ! Comes with other extras as well . You can PM me for more information . Jim
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