1952-59 Ford flatty project.

Okay guys. I'm down to removing the pistons now and I have 4 of the connecting rod caps off but the pistons are stuck in the cylinders. I tried the broom handle deal and it shattered. I'm debating either forcing them out with a metal bar and a BFA or seeing what a machine shop can do for me. I ,without talking to anyone about price, figure it could be cheaper in the long run to have a machine shop dip it to loosen up the cylinders then to ruin the pistons and cylinders and having to have it resleeved and replace the pistons.
Any ideas?

This has been a fun project. Its been a blast having people who never get dirty turn a few wrenches with me.

 

In my past experiences, using a green t-post and a sledge hammer (and plenty of WD-40) have never damaged a chevy 350 (at least the block) when the pistons are stuck. Not sure if this same principle applies to a flattie or not.

 

Hey man..by t post do you mean a fence post?

 

You sound like a greenhorn. Did you number the caps? Do you see which way the factory marks are on the rods? facing the cam, or away? Did you ream the ridges yet? Put one side of the block facing up, level, and soak it with PB Blaster. Find a chunk of wood almost as big as the cylinder, and a really big hammer. Start by trying to move the pistons down, then up.
Its Thanksgiving weekend. You may be expected to have clean hands at the table. Wear gloves, those old motors are nasty. Your hands will come clean if you wash dishes.
Happy turkey day.

 

hope big bren doesnt answer his next post with uh oh, didnt do that.

 

kroil works well too, but its friggen exspensive.

 

Yes. By T-post, I do mean fence post. A large wood one works good too, if you're worried about damaging the piston itself. We used the t-post because it was handy, and the 350 was destined to turn into a 383 stroker anyway.

Whichever method you use, remember to use lots and lots and lots of lubricant (WD-40, PB Blaster, AeroKroil, etc). And just when you think you've used too much lubricant, use more. Also be sure, as mentioned above, to wear hand and eye protection (especially if using a wood post). A 20 pound sledge missing the post and crashing down on a bare hand hurts like a bleep bleep (don't ask me how I know).

 

Another way I've found more successful in removing seized pistons is to put the engine on a stand, with the block deck level, and as said above, soak the **** out if the cylinders with a penetrant oil. I then take a sharp chisel and with a hammer, hit the piston forward, backward, towards the top, towards the botom, with the chisel on about a 45 deg angle in the center of the piston. This will move the piston around for the oil to creep in, and also loosen the piston rings and the piston skirt in the bore. Make sure the ridge is removed if there. They usually push out after the above ritual, with enough oil and swearing.............

 

If the pistons are rusted in place, the engine will most likely need to be re-bored so those pistons are probably not gonna be re-used.

 

Actually, before I did any of the efforts stated above by everyone on a flathead, I'd make sure the block wasn't cracked at the exhaust seats like so many are.

 

I had a 49 style motor that showed a crack into and out of an exhaust seat about a half inch both ways. It was pined and I drove it for years and sold it. It always stayed cool and didnt use coolant.

 

Great ideas. Yes I am a green horn I have used a case of penetrating oil and am buying stock . It doesn't look like I need a ridge reamer. Of coure I just used my finger to see if i feel ridges. I more than likely won't use the pistons but if I can I will. I'm trying to do it like the old man did which means on a strick budget. But I will be smart about it when it comes to being frugal vs having to re do some **** later. I hope you all had a great turkey day.