1952-59 Ford 53/54 build,need some help please,top end oiler,exhaust manifolds for duals

I'll soon be driving her,just ironing some bugs out,getting to ****py out for my Softail. It's a car I found on Craigslist for 800$ and the guy delivered it too from around 75 miles away,took me from thanksgiving day til today to get her running,and stopping and she does both very nicely now,also did a quick sand job and flat black paint job just to cover up all the rust and the horrible paint that was on there. I read on here that the 239 Y blocks run hot and don't get enough oil on the top end and that there's a way to fix that by running some copper lines from the oil pressure outlet,is this correct? How is this done? Does anyone have any pictures? I can't find the posts I read on it before,ugh. I would also like to put dual exhaust on,now can I just make some plates to go over where the cross over tube mounts to the manifolds? Do it cheap like that? Or do i need to buy different manifolds? What will fit on the 54 239 with the 3 on the tree. I really appreciate all the help,all of you have been awesome to me so far. I don't have a computer so I use my smart phone to get online,I will post some pictures soon though.

 

Top end oilers are a band aid. Pull the v'covers and with the engine running, see if you're getting any oil at all to the rockers. If so, pinch off the spill tubes and be done for now. If not, you're plugged up and need to clean out the oil p***ages. You need to get a set of different exhaust manifolds, For your 239, I'd suggest a set off a '60 -61-62 292 car. they're cheap and will fit no problem, allowing you a dual system if you want. The '57 manifolds flow better, are for bigger displacement Y's, and cost more.

 

Pinch off the spill tubes? For good you mean? What exactly does that do? How would I go about cleaning the oil p***ages? Thanks

 

First, tell the forum if you're getting oil up there. If you are, the tubes at the end of the rockers are the spill over tubes. Pinching them off is a quick way of pressurizing the rocker arm ***embly oiling system. For good. For better. Pull the v'covers and check for oil.

 

Yes there is oil,just doesn't look like a whole lot

 

Streetdreams,are you saying the 60-62 292 manifolds will clear the clutch Z bar linkage in a '54 Ford? The 55-59 dual manifolds will not work in a '54 unless it's a Ford-O-Matic Rocky aka dragonknucks used Red's Headers in His '54 those headers are one year only specific for '54 Fords & Mercs because of Z-bar issues.Eliminating the exhaust crossover and blocking the drivers side manifold to create dual exhaust was actually used on the 1954 Police Intercepters and good Ol' J.C. Whitney sold a kit to convert Y-blocks to duals that same way "back in the day".There is a forum in progress on www.fordbarn.com (late model) regarding y-block oiling back in the 50's and 60's the use of non-detergent Paraffin based oils which created a waxy sludge build up was actually the cause of y-block oiling problems,if your y-block has ever been rebuilt and detergent oil has been used the problem may not exist.There are different opinions as to what may happen if you put detergent oil in a y-block that previously used non-detergent oil,some think it could clog things up and others think the cleaning would be a gradual process,I tend to agree with the latter.Do not try the "Quick way" by using diesel,ATF or so called "Oil Flush" products as for oil I would go "Ford in a Ford" and use Motorcraft Diesel 15W40 which has more ZDDP than the later Rotella formula,runs about $16 for a 5 quart jug at Wally World or Autozone.

 

Jeffb2 I notice on the p***engers side manifold there's a cut off with a spring attached to it,from what I can tell it opens and closes depending on what I'm not sure but it does work. Would I just put plates over both sides? I like doing as much "back in the day" stuff as possible,keeping it real,and cheap. Im not sure if that's what I'll do it is just a question for now. From the looks of everything its never been rebuilt,but everytime I run her she sounds better n better. I will pick up that diesel oil and use that though. I did put in a smidge of Marvel Mystery oil and it really started to run nicer after that. From reading other threads I will be only running straight gas from now on,thankfully there's one right by my house. Thank you all for the support

 

Jeff, I stand corrected. Didn't even consider the "Z" bar clearance issue. As to the oiling, I would agree that the oiling system would gradually clean itself over time with the present oils. I would still think it a good idea however to remove and clean out the rocker shafts and convert to full pressure lubrication on them.

 

Ok took the valve cover off on p***enger side and its not getting as much oil as I thought it was getting. How do I clean out oil p***ages? I will be pinching off the spillover tubes tonight yet. The oil pressure gauge reads high also.

 

If the engine is original it has a cross drilled drilled cam to "control" oil flow to the rockers. The p***enger side on these engines always take longer to get oil to the rockers due to the design. If you are getting oil it should be alright. These engines don't flood the rockers like some of Fords designs.
If you are getting oil to the rockers go with other suggestions to use good quality high zinc oil, change it often and you will have no problems.
Regards

 

Running good oil in it should clean it out over time as stated above. I would check the oil flow on the rockers after a couple hundred miles and look for improved flow. That should happen. Your oil pressure should jump about 10 PSI when the spill tubes are pinched off. You may have to remove the rocker ***emblies and clean out the shafts if flow doesn't improve. They may be gunked up pretty good on the inside. The proper size plugs for the shaft ends can be purchased at any good parts store.

 

Ok,I have good flow on the drivers side but on the p***engers side it looks like none. Rick55 you said it takes longer to get flow to p***enger side,how much longer? How long is too long to be running it like that? I don't want anything bad to happen. Thanks

 

You may have to remove the rocker ***emblies and clean out the shafts if flow doesn't improve. They may be gunked up pretty good on the inside. The proper size plugs for the shaft ends can be purchased at any good parts store.

 

okay wow a little bit of an idiot,I didn't notice that the driver side exhaust manifold didn't come out the rear also,it just hooks up to the crossover pipe,ugh I feel like an idiot. Now which manifold will work on the driver side 4 dual exhaust?

 

Jeffb2 or dragonknucks will have to answer that for you. Judging by the above posts, looks like a set of Red's headers.

 

Losthutch,the bad news is none will fit a '54, the clutch "Z" bar interferes with it,I tried to search the net for a picture of the '54 Police Interceptor engine for you but struck out,the special drivers side manifold(very rare) will bring $125 plus on ebay,heres a link to the headers http://reds-headers.net/index.php?m...id=136&zenid=c121c3e854f635791c2a5fd11a333c23 Rocky aka dragonknucks loves His! the price in the link is for the plain header the ceramic in the picture is $160 extra.The sound of a y-block with headers and dual Smittys is unreal! The other way some guys have done it is to come off the front with a big bend and back,but it looks really goofy.

 

It could take two or three minutes from cold depending how flow you get. If there is evidence of oil on the p***enger side you can be sure you are getting oil there. If you are doing this from cold you are not going to do any damage. The cross drilled cams were replaced with grooved cams or grooved bearings in later engines. With these cams you can't spin the pump with a drill to prime the rockers as it is hard to determine where the drilling is in relation to the holes it has to line up with. If you have it running for 10 minutes or so with no oil evident you have a blocked feed. With this setup it is possible to fix it without completely pulling down the engine.
Good luck.

 

Ok,will start looking. I see they make block off played for that oil down tube that comes off the drivers side of the motor,do you want to block that off? Is there a reason people do block that off? The Reds headers are a little pricey for me right now,was hoping there's some way to do it cheap? Also would like to find the side trim off a Crestline,goes right in front of rear tires (not sure what its called) but I've seen just that on some cars and it looks real clean. I had to drive it to work today because there was snow on the roads and she made it to and from work

 

Crestline parts? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=26983 Alan is great to deal with too! Send him a pm!

 

Yes jeffB2 I like the look of SlmLrd car with just those 2 rear quarter panel Chrome trim pieces,nice n simplistic,I think the trim pieces he has on there are off a Crestline if I'm not mistaken? So inky lunch hour I drive home,shut my car off run inside and then jumped back in her n started her up,and BOOM!!!! Blew the bottom right off my muffler haha so now I need a meds muffler,do you think it would be ok to put one of those gl*** packs on there? (cherry bomb I think) Would it be too loud? Dang it sounds great with no muffler on it now wish I could run her like that. Or is there any suggestions on what kind of muffler sounds good on these single exhaust? It'll be a little bit before I can get a set of Reds Headers to put on dual exhaust,wish there was another manifold that would fit on the drivers side I could use. There's just got to be a way to do it,a manifold or linkage i could get off another car that I could put on mine for the duals,I just Havnt found it yet. Thanks everyone

 

Yes jeffB2 I like the look of SlmLrd car with just those 2 rear quarter panel Chrome trim pieces,nice n simplistic,I think the trim pieces he has on there are off a Crestline if I'm not mistaken? So inky lunch hour I drive home,shut my car off run inside and then jumped back in her n started her up,and BOOM!!!! Blew the bottom right off my muffler haha so now I need a meds muffler,do you think it would be ok to put one of those gl*** packs on there? (cherry bomb I think) Would it be too loud? Dang it sounds great with no muffler on it now wish I could run her like that. Or is there any suggestions on what kind of muffler sounds good on these single exhaust? It'll be a little bit before I can get a set of Reds Headers to put on dual exhaust,wish there was another manifold that would fit on the drivers side I could use. There's just got to be a way to do it,a manifold or linkage i could get off another car that I could put on mine for the duals,I just Havnt found it yet. Thanks everyone

 

You could take off the crossover pipe, have a muffler shop bend out a pipe from the front of the drivers manifold back to a muffler to make a dual. Of course, you would need to block off the front of the p***enger manifold. Kinda funky but cheap way to make duals on a '54.

 

The dual exhaust was not available initially on the brand new Y-Block for 1954 Fords and Mercurys. The 1954 Y-Blocks had some unique elements to them that do not interchange with other Y-blocks: exhaust manifolds were one. Mercury then brought out a dual exhaust option on the 256 engine. This involved capping off the P***enger’s side manifold and moving the Exhaust Thermostat Valve ***embly (with the spring). The new Driver’s side exhaust manifold dumped directly into it own exhaust system (through the moved Valve ***embly). The part number for the new manifold was EBY-9431-B. Ford later offered Dual exhaust through its Police Intercept Option with the Driver’s side exhaust manifold part number of EBU-9431-D. The Ford number superseded and replaced the Mercury number over time. Either of these manifolds will work. They do come up on Ebay every once in a while. They are a bit thinner than later manifolds so take some care about their condition.

 

People block the overflow tubes to pressurize the rockers. There has been a lot of debate about the wisdom of this on the yblocksforever forum. Ford fitted these tubes to provide an oil source for the distributor drive gear and the cam chain and gears. Personally, I would not block them off, but it is your choice. If you do, at the least you should slot your camshaft thrust plate to put oil in the region of the timing chain components.
Regards

 

A 24" case Cherry Bomb should sound OK,I think the inlet & outlet on yours is 1 3/4" .I got my Cherry Bombs at Pep Boys but I think O'Reillys may have them also.If they only have the 2" in stock you may need reducers which they have in stock.

 

There will be plenty of oil to lubricate the distributor drive gear with the rockers pressurized. Whether it spills out the tubes or pushes out past the rocker arms after lubricating them, the oil still runs down and to the rear drain back holes in the head. There is also alot of oil throw off from the crank, which does a good job of lubing the cam and lifters as well. There has been alot of discussion on this topic and probably will in the future, but consider this: if the spill tubes were such a great idea, Ford would have carried them over to the FE ( 352, 390, etc ) family. They didn't. As a matter of fact, Ford overcompensated oiling the rockers on a FE, probably because of inadequate rocker oiling on a Y-Block. Ford also dropped the side oiling system of a Y-Block, and lubed the cam bearings first, then to the mains on an FE, resulting in blown engines while racing. Hence, the side oiler 427's of NASCAR fame. This is why many racers restrict oil flow up top on an FE, especially with a hi-volume pump. Every engine builder has his own opinion and practices. Mine is to pressurize the rockers on a Y-block, along with a long list of other oiling system mods. I also restrict FE rockers when using a hi-volume pump a**** other mods as well.

 

The block off plates allow you to pressurize the rockers, which theoretically wil cause more oil out the holes of the rocker shaft onto the rockers themselves. If an engine has any sort of obstruction in the oil feed before it gets to the rocker shafts in my opinion this will make that obstruction worse and may cause it to block up altogether.
If you drove your car to work today and it got up to operating temp and it ran for about twenty minutes or more in total and the rockers weren't squeaking, I would think you have adequate oil feed already.
Just change the oil and only use good quality high zinc oil from now on and you will be fine.
Regards

 

No squeaking at all,think I will still pull apart rocker ***emblies n clean everything just to make sure. Now I just gotta find the loosening and tightening sequences and the torque specs,I really need to get a book for this thing ha. Well I got the Cherry bomb Turbo muffler at Fleet Farm,but havnt had time to put it on yet. Thanks everyone for all the help,and happy holidays from oshkosh Wisconsin.

 

Don't worry about the loosening and tightening sequences on the rocker arm shaft. Just start from the middle and work out. Torque is about 15-18 lbs, remember these are only 5/16 bolts.

For the left side Z bar problem, use a 55/56 Z bar and the problem is solved.

 

You can put factory manifolds on a stick car, you just need a creative exhaust shop to handle it. We did a 54 mercury with a *******ized 239 that way. A cherry bomb or similar gl*** pack won't be loud at all, unless you get a really short one (say 18 inches).
Good luck with your build!