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Finding Top dead center

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cootergotahaircut, Dec 28, 2005.

  1. cootergotahaircut
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 22

    cootergotahaircut
    Member

    I have an 8ba Flathead and I a trying to find top dead center with out taking the head off.
    Help please I'm having trouble sleeping
     
  2. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member


    Cooter sleep now...
    http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/tdc.htm
     
  3. I don't know shit about flatheads but if the spark plug's above the path of the piston, you can screw something in the spark plug hole that's a little longer than the plug. Turn the motor by hand til the piston hits the whatever, and mark the harmonic balancer. Go back the other direction til the piston hits again. Mark the balancer again, and i think TDC is exactly BETWEEN the 2 marks. Now, for the tool, you can bust out all the porcelain from a spark plug and thread the hole for a bolt to screw down the middle. This can be an adjustable stop.
     
  4. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Plug is over the valves in a Ford Flathead.
    That sure works great on most overheads though! ;)
     
  5. oneyed
    Joined: Oct 16, 2005
    Posts: 136

    oneyed
    BANNED

    Aw run it the way it is. Haven't you heard all the old stories about how they drove the flathead from Missouri to California using their belt as a main bearing? Oh and how the went 150 mph in 1949 with 2-2's. Good Luck. If you want to get it right pull a head.
     
  6. tred
    Joined: Mar 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,385

    tred
    Member



    actually, hackerbill's link has a great idea, but i would use light oil though.
    read that article everyone!
     
  7. ENGINENUT
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 41

    ENGINENUT
    Member

    Cooter, heres a method that should get you within 4 degrees.

    Remove the plugs so the engine turns easily and observe the valves through the plug hole.Find the place where both valves are open the same amount(overlap position) by rocking the engine back and forth and you will be at TDC provided the cam drive has not slipped.1 rev from this is TDC on power stroke.
    This method will also work for you when cam timing is questioned after cam drive work or suspect timing chain has slipped.Good luck.
     
  8. Flatdog
    Joined: Jan 31, 2003
    Posts: 1,285

    Flatdog
    Member Emeritus

    I may be a Pole lock but I don't understand this idea??? WTF I just pulled my cam card and you are right TDC is right in the center of the over lap period.Learn something everyday .Thanks .
     
  9. mtflat
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 422

    mtflat
    Member

    Where the valves both open is the exhaust stroke - 360 deg off. As enginenut said turn one more complete revolution for TDC. OR

    Plug the #1 hole with your finger, turn the crank till you feel compression. Align the pointer with the bump on the crank pulley and you're at the starting point. That bump is approx 4 deg btdc. 8BA/8RT's are easy.

    And it's not likely the cam can slip out of synch unless it breaks a gear tooth - in which case it will not fire.
     
  10. Figuring yer running the dizzy and not a crab.

    Remove the dizzy cap, roll it over to the rotor faces number one.
    Remove number one plug.
    use long screwdriver, or light if you can see in the hole.
    If screwdrive hits piston top, you are TDC, if not you are 180 off.
    Rotate engine until rotor face number one agian.
     
  11. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Visual methods, including eyeball on piston, dial indicator on piston, or liquid in tube won't give you a truly accurate TDC--this is because of the engine's off set and because of the effect of the long connecting rod. This is true to varying degrees on all or most engines.
    If you put an indicator on a flathead (or SBC...) piston and a good big degree wheel on the crank and watch both closely, you will discover there's a space of about 2 1/2 to 3 degrees in which vertical motion cannot be clearly distinguished! This is what Yunick described as "Dwell" at TDC in his power book. I discovered this on my own when I bought my first precision tool (an ex-Wehrmacht dial indicator) about a hundred years ago. I saw it clearly and had a great deal of trouble believing what I saw--I only began to understand what I saw many years later when Yunick discussed this in relation to his theories on connecting rod length.
    Here's how to do the job:
    Flathead with head on--slide in a long large tie-wrap through plug hole so the buckle part goes all the way over to far cylinder wall.
    Overhead with head on--piston obstruction tool based on a sparkplug shell and bolt.
    Any engine with head off--strap across cylinder with bolt head as stop.

    Turn engine by hand until rising piston hits obstruction. Mark degree wheel or pulley. Turn engine backwards until it hits thataway. Mark again. TDC is 1/2 way between your marks. If using a rigid obstruction, you are done. If using the tie wrap through plug hole, repeat a couple times to make sure your helper really kept it in the same place throughout the operation. This is no harder or slower than any Mickey Mouse way.
     
  12. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Thats so frickin' simple! A positive stop on a flexible shaft!
    Very cool Mr Lancaster...;)

    BTTT for Cooter.
     
  13. cootergotahaircut
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 22

    cootergotahaircut
    Member

    Thanks guys for all your help.

    That old flathead fired up for the first time in 2 1/2 years last night. Once I found TDC on #1 she fired right up.

    Thanks again
    Later
     
  14. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    Hey, I'm Cooter. And I did get a haircut. How'd you know?:confused:
     

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