I'm converting my 55 plymouth v-8 to run 12volt, now when i went to the local napa store the guy behind the counter told me that i would have to put a resistor before the starter, is this a good idea? i ***umed that the components in the starter would be fairly beefy, am i wrong? Also this might be a dumb question but should i replace the starter relay or should i just stick with the old ones?
Also this might be a dumb question but should i replace the starter relay or should i just stick with the old ones?[/QUOTE] Your 6 volt starter should handle 12volts just fine. It'll spin really fast...but it shouldn't burn up. Solenoid is easy enough to replace....I'd do it with a 12 volt unit. The place the resistor makes the difference is for your gauges...with the exception of the ammeter...I don't think it cares what voltage it is fed..just amps. Tim MBL
You'll need a resistor in the ignition circuit before the points if you have a points ignition. And byp*** that resistor when starting by running a wire from the "start" side of the ignition switch (or push****on) to the "+" side of the coil. Six volt systems didn't need this feature but 12's do otherwise you'll fry the points. The starter AND solenoid will work just fine on 12V...
Starter is a series-wound motor, don't give a **** about the voltage. More voltage will turn it faster, but unless you overheat it enough to melt the solder in the communtator, no problem. That'll never happen in normal starting operations, because you can't spin it too fast with it turning the flywheel. Those guys at auto-parts stores make up **** as they go along.
Bad ideal on byp***ing the ballast by running a wire from the start side of the ignition since once you go to the run position you will feed back into the start position and pull the starter in unless you use a blocking diode in the byp*** circuit.
Alright, thanks guys, i just put a new starter in and i didn't want to do the convesion and then have to find another 55 plymouth starter (lemme tell ya') I'm also converting my ignition to a 12 volt coil and 318 distributor (12 volts)
be careful with your ammeter. Most of the old cars had like 30 amp guages, many of the alternators we use now are 45 to 65 or more amps- FIRE HAZARD!!!!!!!!!
.............on some 40s and 50s dodge and plymouth cars you had 6volt positive ground if you do when you go to 12 volt neg ground you got to move some cables around oh yeah you might want to put in a fuse block you can get voltage reducers for your dash then change all your light bulbs by then you will br real good at this and can get over here and fix mine .............cop didnt see it....Ididnt do it
If yer going alternator, mind the amperage, and change the leads on the ammeter for negative ground, don't forget to swap the coil wires also. Jury is out on whether you need a runtz for the gas gauge, some folks are running 12 v with no reducer. A balast resister in the coil to dizzy wire is a must and an extra in the glove box is a must as these things are notoriously unreliable unless of course you have an extra, The starter don't care, the solenoid might and yer horns might also like a voltage reducer (runtz available at Radio Shack) or change the horns to 12v. If yer gonna use a GM style one wire alternator, an easy way to run it is to abandon the current Voltage Regulator wires in place, and attach the alternator wire to the wire that was labled bat on the regulator. In other words, detach the bat wire from the VR, connect the alt wire to the wire. Crawl under the dash, change the wires on the ammeter posts, while yer there swap all the dash lamps and yer done with the the charging system. Now change the rest of the bulbs, and swap the coil wires installing the balast resistor, and oh that pesky heater fan, might need to voltage drop that also. Britania rules the waves, were I Briatania, I waive the rules.
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