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1952-59 Ford idling problem

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Big_Red26, Sep 16, 2012.

  1. Big_Red26
    Joined: Aug 16, 2012
    Posts: 15

    Big_Red26
    Member
    from San Diego

    So i have a question or two about my 56 customline. Recently after replacing condenser, resistor, points and new cap, ill start her up and she will idle kind of low. then after its warmed up a bit it will idle sluggishly for a second then pick back up again then low and if i let it keep idling it will eventually die. also i noticed that when i goose the throttle at idle it will shut off. i just need to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks
     
  2. Bleach
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 31,888

    Bleach
    Member

    Did you check the dwell after gapping the points? It's either that or the condenser may be defective. Try these for starters. BTW, you didn't mention what motor you have.
     
  3. Big_Red26
    Joined: Aug 16, 2012
    Posts: 15

    Big_Red26
    Member
    from San Diego

    I dont have a multimeter so i set the gap for a 292 y block. .014-.016 is what it said i believe. i adjusted the throttle linkage cause it it really had to tension. it idles a little faster now and doesnt die when i stomp the gas really quick. sooo im not sure if that was all it was.
     
  4. Big_Red26
    Joined: Aug 16, 2012
    Posts: 15

    Big_Red26
    Member
    from San Diego

    *had no tension is what i meant
     
  5. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 755

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

    Did you check for any vacuum leaks?
     
  6. Big_Red26
    Joined: Aug 16, 2012
    Posts: 15

    Big_Red26
    Member
    from San Diego

    no i have not. whats the best way to go about that?
     
  7. GREENBIRD56
    Joined: May 11, 2008
    Posts: 75

    GREENBIRD56
    Member
    from Tucson, AZ

    Engines that have a vacuum leak will speed up if you introduce a "fuel" substance near the place where it is leaking. "Starting ether" (petroleum ether used to help start industrial diesels) and propane from a plumbers torch are a couple of other fuels. Often a carburetor cleaner aerosol will work as well.
    Does your engine maybe still have the vacuum advance style of 1956 distributor? Instead of mechanical (centrifugal) advance - they operate on "venturi" vacuum only - sourced from the carb throat. Spark advance will cause the idling engine to speed up - and retarding (from losing advance) will make it run a bit rough.
     
  8. Big_Red26
    Joined: Aug 16, 2012
    Posts: 15

    Big_Red26
    Member
    from San Diego

    yes it still has a vacuum advance distributor. there was one vacuum inlet that had a cracked rubber sleeve. but i plugged it up and it idles about the same. if i let it idle by itself without giving it any gas it will eventually just shut off. im going to get a vacuum gauge and replace new plugs and wires. looks like my rotor is messed too. took it off this morning to find the br*** piece all loose. so gonna swap that out also. only thing i havent touched is the coil, the plugs, wires, and vacuum advance.
     
  9. 1956Ford
    Joined: Nov 21, 2010
    Posts: 125

    1956Ford
    Member

    My car would stall when it came to stops. It wouldn't idle in gear. I removed the 2 idle screws, keeping track of how they were adjusted, then shot compressed air into the 2 screw holes. I also sprayed Tri-Flo on all the linkages. It was a cheap trick that worked for me. Still hesitates when cold, but runs fine when warmed up.
     
  10. Big_Red26
    Joined: Aug 16, 2012
    Posts: 15

    Big_Red26
    Member
    from San Diego

    ok ill try that next thanks! any and all input helps!
     
  11. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 755

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

    If you don't have compressed air you can use carb cleaner to spray in those holes. Don't go to crazy though.
     

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