Mineral spirits. Thin 5 to 10% to spray with a gun. MAKE SURE YOU STRAIN IT BECAUSE RUSTOLEUM HAS HIGH SOLIDS CONTENT!! I've used rustoleum quite a bit and it works awesome when thinned this way. Note that some cans say to use acetone for some reason. I believe this was the old recommendation. It dries way to fast when painting large panels and will leave a dusty porous finish. Definitely use mineral spirits. Happy new year..
I have had good results spraying it ,thinned with laquer thinner(cheap stuff). That is if you want a semi-flat finish. Dries quick too. Dad used to use gasoline,but I would not recomend it.Sparky
Also,,mineral spirits can be purchased in paint stores or home improvement stores,,,,DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE ACRYLIC ENAMEL THINNER You can use Japan Dryer sparingly to speed up the drying time with oil based enamels. HRP
I dont know but if you ever want to use real automotive paint over it,good luck.Every time I have had to paint over Rustoleum,the paint would fisheye every where.Very hard to get rid of .
Actually I am going to brush/roll my frame and some chassis pieces and I want it to flow a little easier. I will use the mineral spirits Thanks guys
Laquer thinner- if you want it to dry in 24 hours-Mineral spirits if the next generation is soon enough! I think it dries toughter as well with the Laquer thinner-even tho ,there are those that will disagree that it will even work! recoat can be ahieved by applying a fresh coat of the same Rustoleum- them apply the recoat directly over that =while still WET.......
If you are going to roll the paint on,I would suggest this:use a foam roller(not a rag type).You can buy small width ones but it is just as easy(and cheaper) to cut the large ones down with a hacksaw. As for thinning the paint I would use it straight out of the can unthinned. Pour the paint in a roller tray and work it into the roller.Do your coverage and when it is completely covered,use a putty knife that has one of those cutout areas on the side to remove any excess paint from the roller(that's what they are for).Go slowly back over your painted areas and try to overlap your strokes about 50%.Clean off excess paint from the roller as needed.You can get almost a sprayed on look by doing this.I coat sign boards in this manner(learned it from an old sign painter)and they look like they were sprayed. The paint will lay out smoothly and will not run.Dry time for Rust-O-Leum in moderate(60-70 degree)temperatures is about 24 hours before it can be recoated.Be advised that colder will slow the dry time CONSIDERABLY and perhaps prevent it from drying altogether.Read the instructions on the can. Another thing that will aid drying is to have a fan circulating air in the area.I used to have a problem with sign boards not drying even in warm weather.I painted them flat on saw horses and they would take several days to dry.My old sign painter friend told me the reason they weren't drying was the solvents were going upward and then settling back onto the surface. Every time I do sign boards now,I run the shop fans and they dry up completely overnight.
I painted a Subaru winter rat years ago with rustoleum with a 3 inch fine knap roller. Two toned the thing machinery gray over black, thined it in the roller pan with trepintine, about 4 parts paint to 1 part terps. Did it in the garage at about 50 degrees F. Many people thought it was a spray job. Should be ok for frame and chassis. Other paint fish eyes when overcoated because part of Rustoleums and other rust paints have fish oil as an ingredient. It slow releases through the paint as part of the rust proofing process. (yep it's on the label) Several people have had excellent results with the ACE hardware brand (Rust Stop) and swear by it being a superior product to Rustoleum. Might want to give Hammerite (same company that makes KILZ) http/: www.kilz.com I used it to paint my engine two years ago, still looks like day one.
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