1952-59 Ford Inside Floor clean and rust prevention

Before the paintjob nightmare I had cleaned out the inside and laid down some sound deadening material. Luckily not the expensive stuff, used some home depot stuff. With everyone crawling in and out it really got messed up so I am removing it and starting over. Anyway, there was no noticeable rust on the floors before, but now that I am pulling the stuff up, there is. I even had some water trapped under it in some places, since my windshields were out it either got rained in, or it was from wetsanding or something. Anyway, now I have some surface rust appearing, mainly where the rear bench seat goes.

So I am taking everything out and want to clean the floor up good before putting it back together. I dont want to put anything on the floor that will be a bear to get off later (as in when I have the time/money) to do a full restore to the car and may need to fix floor problems. The floor is solid, so what would be the best/easiest way to do cleanse and protect it?

 

Rustoleum.........

 

Ok thanks. Although I thought that was only used for full paintjobs

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/viewall.html

 

Frame and floors Rustoleum'd - correct, John?

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Go to ACE Hardware and get this:http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&h...=20&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0,i:108&biw=1143&bih=605 It turns any rust into a hard shell primer,let it dry and coat over with Rustoleum.

 

Floors rustoleumed after repairs, cleanup and caulking. Ch***is done in one step gloss enamel with a pinch of flatener.

 

I used POR15 when I did my doors. For low buck I like to use Rust-Oleum hammered finish paint. Use the qt can and roll it on. The spray can stuff doesn't work near as good as the regular can. The hammer finish flows together and doesn't leave roller marks. I used it to paint the underneath of my Falcon to prevent it from rusting. It has been over 5 years in Louisiana and it still looks like when I put it on. My car sits outside in my carport. To remove you need to use a wire wheel because it it will gum up any kind of sanding disc.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-Hammered-Paint-Black/17011157

 

I've used POR15 several times in the past and frankly, I don't think it's any better than Rustoleum. Most recently on some antique lawn chairs, which rusted along a seam after a year with POR15. Plus, the cleanup and use of POR15 is a PITA. It may have it's uses, but I prefer Rustoleum for high and low buck jobs.

 

When doing the floor clean-up, before you get to painting - try some WD40 to get the remaining glue off of everything. Does a good job, doesn't require an oxygen mask to be around it - and it is easy to remove for the prime and paint step.

Also - if there are places where the "seam sealer" is baked or rotten, renew those seams with some new, paintable material before you cover it up. I used 3M product for this (recommended by a bodyman friend) but i can't find a tube of it in my stash to tell you the name....?

 

I like Rustoleum red oxide primer that smells like it has fish oil in it. In the picture above of the inside of the floor, I clean and spray way up inside the 1/4 and doors. I spray the red primer in there until it runs out the bottom drain holes. It does not need to be covered. It gets hard as stone.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I am finishing my inside "re" wiring job and then I am going to tackle that. I think I have a good plan now