So, I have a 55 ford with a 302/C4 in it currently. I saw in the FAQ sticky that a 68 mustang speedo cable was supposed to work for this app. Anyway, I ordered one from Rock Auto and finally got around to trying to put it in today. The end for the trans is right, but the end that plugs into the back of the speedo isn't even close. It looks like the speedo itself is threaded, and the cable is expecting some kind of clip on arrangement. What gives?
Doesn't a 57 Ford cable work? I thought for sure when I did the Fordo/FMX conversion that's what I used. But don't quote me? Gerry
I purchased the 68 mustang speedo on Saturday for my '53 with an AOD because that's what I saw in the sticky as well. Both ends are wrong, let us know what you learn.
I also did a AOD conversion but that one took a trip to the Speedo shop with the two ends I needed and he made we one. Gails speedometer in Costa mesa Ca. Gerry
ATP is a common brand (as listed on ebay) the part number is Y801 you should be able to exchange the incorrect one for this if your parts guy can cross it over.
ATP-Y807 seems to have the correct ends for my T5 and speedo, but I haven't actually run with it yet to make sure the length is correct. It should be. Let me know if you find ATP-Y801 is confirmed to work with your C4/AOD and I can update the FAQ page.
Also, here's a blurb on CJ Pony Parts that talks about Mustang speedo cables that would seem to confirm maybe they gave you the wrong cable. 1964-1968 speedometer cables have a threaded end where they connect to the back of the speedometer. There is a metal portion crimped onto the cable at the other end that the speedo gear clips onto. An o-ring is used for sealing. The cables have a retaining bracket incorporated on the cable that bolts to the transmission, which holds the gear in the trans. All 64-68 cables are interchangeable, the only difference is the length. I've been surfing around in Mustang T5/AOD conversion threads for a while to find applicable info for my swap, knowing that the Mustangs should have the same screw end on the speedo end of the cable, and thats where I found ATP-Y807 for mine. I believe it should have the same trans end as the C4/AOD as well. I should know for sure that it works in a couple weeks when I install the ******.
Great information!! I was about to spend the money with Lokar and make my own. BUt this is FAR cheaper than that. Best part is it will be alot easier to install and if i have issues it will be a local supplier im dealing with.
NAPA is not the only game in town and this is a very common cable, check out these applications:http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=Y801&x=24&y=7 Rock Auto is also an ATP dealer. The number NAPA should have given you is BK 6151646 $26.89 or $12 higher.
I recommend the ATP Y801 for another reason as this is also a longer cable this gives you more flexability if you have done a swap and need extra clearance around headers or linkages.
I know napa isn't the only one, but my body shop has an acct with them plus a discount. I can check my price against rock auto.
Mine must be boxed wrong because it has two female ends. It certainly does not look like the one that echo posted. Just my luck, oh well
Very timely information for me! Does the end the goes in the transmission have changeable pitch on the little drive gear or do you change a gear inside the ****** to adjust for rear end gear ratio and tire size?
Heres a chart for the T5 speed gears and the calculation formula. Again, everything I've read seems to indicate the AODs and C4s use the same gear as the T5, the main difference is the drive hear is ground in to the output shaft rather than a slipped on plastic drive gear like the T5. But I beleive the driven gear is the same and should look like the one pictured.
Great information thank you! What I was missing is the driven end of the first photo is not the actual gear. The plastic gear goes onto it, now this makes sence. The 1954 one I took off was completely different I did not know what I would need to fit my C6 (same asC4). If those plastic gears are cheap enough I will get a range. I have bigger than stock tire diameter.
You may find this handy also: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm they have the gears available for almost any transmission and you can use the formula chart that takes tire sizes into account when selecting a gear,to find the diameter of your tires check out Discount Tire's website.
Very timely thread as I was in need of a cable and gear. I went with Jeff's suggestion of the ATP Y801 (even though 82" seems like a lot of cable) and used the link above for the gear.
My ATP Y801 cable came today and it looks exactly like the one posted on the first page so your parts store definitely gave you the wrong part.
Just checking and I bought the Y801 Cable already, but having an issue with the speedometer gear that goes into the ******, I tried to use the above chart and not having much luck and want to make sure I get the right one, my car was originally a 6cyl 3-speed car and according to the 55 shop manual it has 3.89 gears, running a standard 15 inch wheels what gear do I need to buy to get me close
Bimbeau, it depends on the overall cir***ference of your tires more than the wheel diameter. I have a '54 I6 with the original 3.90 rear end, 15" wheels, and an overall tire cir***ference of 83.25" (I have relatively tall bias-ply tires). It would also depend on what your transmission/drive gear is. I think the AODs came with 7 or 8 teeth depending on what model and rearend it came from. Found this thread talking about AOD drive gear teeth that may be useful. To calculate revolutions per mile, take the overall diameter of your tire, and multiply that by pi (3.1415) to get cir***ference. Then take the cir***ference and multiply that by the number of inches in a mile (63,360) to get revolutions per mile. Then you can use that in the formula above to get the gear you need. So for example, my revs-per-mile is 761, and I have the yellow 7 tooth drive gear in my T5 trans. So 7 x 3.90 x 761 = 20,775. Divide that by 1000 to get 20.7, or 21 tooth gear (red).
thanks for the info, I honestly don't know what im going to run for tires yet so Its kind of hard to figure it exactly, Right now it has some older tires with smoothies, but i'm just trying to get it back together and running before our local car show and i'm running a c4 out of I believe a '70 Mustang, not sure as it was already in there when I bought the car. I'll do some more checking and just want to get close so it atleast works, then down the road I can always correct it if I need to after I get new wheels and tires.