Did any of you guys run into clearance issues when installing the transmission? I can't seem to see how I can get the main body of the T5 to clear the trans tunnel without cutting it. Does it looks like I have the engine positioned correctly? Any other ideas? The only think I can think of is that I have the left and right engine mounts reversed, but if I swap them I'm worried that there won't be clearance between the radiator/water pump. If I try and lower the back of the engine any further, the heads hit the firewall. What am I missing? I'm panicking a bit at the moment, since I had to borrow garage space.
When I did mine in my 56, I tried the motor mounts you used but couldn't get things to line up. I ended up using mounts for a 64 Falcon w/260. I used the same one on both sides, part #2221. Here's a link to my install. Pictures of the mounts are on the second page. Good luck. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&discussionid=22415&pp=20
Stig,I wonder if he slotted the frame pads like you show in these pictures: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&discussionid=22415&pp=20&page=2 this is the key in many cases.
Thats the thing, the engine seems to fit great, its the trans that isn't fitting so well, as it sits right now the top of the T5 gear case is about 2" higher than the bottom of the floor. Did anyone else run in to trans clearance issues requiring cutting the floor? Stig, were those spacers used to move the p***enger side mount back (moving that side of the engine forward), or just make it taller? If I used the 2221 mounts on both sides, wouldn't the p***enger side bolt be farther back than the drivers side?
Dont cut the floor, lower the rear of the trans. In the original print for those cars, the measurements were plus or minus 3/8. That means there could be as much as 3/4 inches difference from one to the next. Its amazing things fit at all.
The spacers were used to raise the engine to clear the steering and oil pan and also shift it to the right(p***enger side). If I remember right, I used a plain 3/4 " spacer on the p***enger side and the spacer on the drivers side had two sets of mounting holes to bolt to the engine. I used one set for the engine and the other set for the motor mount. This moved the engine toward the p***enger side. The mounts lined up perfectly using the same mount for both sides. I didn't use the stock trans crossmember, I made my own which set the trans lower than the stock crossmember would have. I had the advantage of having a neighbor helping that can solve any problem that comes up with the car. Without his help I think the engine would still be setting in the engine bay not bolted in yet.
You could also lower the motor via different mounts. That would give your more transmission room as well. An automatic is way larger than a T5 so you shouldn't be having any clearance issues.
I noticed you had a level sitting on the intake in one of those pictures. How does the level look with the engine in it's current position? What are you using for the transmission cross member? I have an AOD in mine and I basically flipped the stock transmission cross member over and then mounted the Energy Suspension trans mount inside the cross member. That helped lower the tail shaft enough to clear the trans tunnel. Hard to tell from this picture but everything is still above the scrub line. I used the Anchor motor mounts (bought before it was determined on here that they weren't any good).
I set my pinion angle and built my own trans mount. [/URL] For motor mounts I used late model fox body mustang mounts and slotted the holes. This is the only picture I can find for clearance in the rear.
It's hard to tell from the first picture but could you post a picture from a side view showing how many fingers between the end of the valve cover and the firewall? Something is catching my eye but not sure of the distance.
I'm not too worried about the trans crossmember; once I get the engine and trans in place can make one up pretty easily out of some angle iron I have. But I can't even get the front of the transmission up high enough at the moment to bolt up to the back of the bellhousing. Unfortunately the car is stuck in my parents garage about an hour away, so I can't get any other pics at the moment. There's about 3/4" between the drivers side valve cover and the firewall, so not enough to tilt the engine down very much at all. The carb pad is sitting pretty level in both directions, but I'm not sure at the moment what that translates to in terms of engine angle. I can't really lower the engine any more without also moving it forward to clear the oil pan. And even then I could probably only move it down a 1/2"-1" or so. I might try the falcon mounts and see if I can move it forward and down a little, which will then also give me additional room between the VC and firewall and maybe a little extra downward angle. I guess I'm just having a hard time picturing how using 2221 would work for both side. Aren't the p***enger side holes on the motor further back than on the drivers side? Maybe my brain just isn't functioning very well right now, but it just seems like this would make the bolt on the p***enger side much farther back than on the drivers side. If that doesn't work maybe I'll need to start looking for a C4 to use instead, or break out the cutting tools. Arg, I wish I could be in front of the car right now.
I don't know why it worked but I used the 2221 mount on both sides and it fit. When I used the right mount on each side, it seems like one mount didn't want to bolt up to the block.
Fordsbyjay, those fox mounts deffinitely look like they move the motor further forward than the Linc mounts I have. but the strange thing is I thought the 2725/2726 WERE the fox body mounts, so I wonder why the bolt on your seems centered on the motor mount while on mine the bolt seems more towards the front of the mount. Stupid question, but I ***ume that when they say 2725 is left, they mean drivers side and not left as looking at the front of the engine? Because I have 2725 on the drivers side and 2726 on the p***enger side. Any chance you have a pic of the drivers side so I can compare it to the pic of mine above? How does the radiator/water pump clearance look?
Stig, well they are cheap enough from Amazon I might as well pick up 2 2221s and a 2220 and see how they work. For 8 bucks it couldn't hurt to have both options.
O'Reilly and Autozone both carry ANCHOR mounts that way you won't pay shipping and returning the ones that are wrong would be EZ.
Well I had a chance yesterday to work on the car for a while, and I really gotta say thanks to Stig for pointing me towards the Falcon mounts. I ended up using one 2221 and one 2220, and added a few washers for height to clear the oil pan and she sat perfect. By moving the engine forward and down slightly I was able to tilt the bellhousing down a bit more and the trans fit like a glove. I'll have to notch a little out of the frame crossmember to clear the lowered piece at the back of the T5 tailhousing, and modify the trans crossmember a bit, but I think it'll work a treat. I'll get some more pics when I get everything fit together permanently. The mount studs sit almost at the very bottom of the slotted stock pads... Still have plenty of radiator/pulley clearance for the electric fan I have...
So what we have learned is that for a 302/5.0 swap with an AOD or C4 use the late Mustang mounts if you are going T5 use the Falcon mounts.Guess we should have you update the "sticky"
What about a toploader? Anyone have any issues when putting in a 4spd toploader with these mounts? I have the 2725/2726 mounts waiting on my shelf for my 302(from 72 pickup) and toploader install. ???
As a follow up the shorter mounts have caused some clearance issues in the past with exhaust to steering box so we will have to see how that plays out,I would think that a hydraulic clutch is going to be part of the install as well,looking forward to more Pix.
by using the motor mounts that attach to the heads solved all of my problems. I added steel to the crossmember but I have tons of adjustment in all directions if I need it. im thinking of doing the c4 to t5 swap since I have the motor out right now just now sure the easiest way to do all the clutch work.
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