1952-59 Ford Getting More Caster on '53 Customline

Hi,

I'm looking for a way to put more caster into the front end of our '53 Customline. It's pretty much maxed out at -1/2 degree, which is in specs, but not optimal for stability on the highway. I've talked to somone who modifies the uprights in a jig for several models, but he doesn't have the setup for this one. Apparently some shops had an on-car bending fixture to get more caster, but I'm apparently about 30 years too late to find a place that has one.

I've seen Jamco is selling an A-arm kit for aroud $2,200 which would take care of this, but I'm still looking to see what other options are out there.

After putting radials on this car, it's not quite as stable at 60 mph as it was. After rebuilding the front end, it's about as tight as it can get, and I've heard this issue is fairly common. Any ideas?

 

Before you order anything from Jamco, search the main board. They are very sloooow shipping.

 

My experience is that radial tires want less toe in. 1/16 or less.

 

I don't have direct experience with the '53 - but I can tell you about what I had to do to safely redesign the '56 version of the suspension (which has ball joints). The Caster inclination is tipping the upright so that the lower pivot "leads" the upper -so that increasing it will involve moving the upper end back or the lower ahead - or both. The early Mustang had about + two degrees Caster and that is a useful target. The two degrees is .42 inches in one foot - so comparing the 12 inches to the distance between your upper and lower upright will let you choose a proportional amount that they will have to move (less than 12 inches - then less than .42). On the '56 it is easiest to move the lower ahead - and Ford provided two pivot bolts in line, at the inner ends of the lower A-arm. The '56 was arranged so the A-arm fit between two frame pivot supports so shimming it forward means making the front-end move ahead an equal amount. I only used this as an ***ist to the factory adjustment range - maxed out the factory movement first.

Don't do this unless you are prepared to do a safe job of it - which will mean ***embling the parts without a spring and then moving the suspension through its travel (and turning) to detect any possible binding. This change will also alter the amount of effort it takes to steer the car with manual steering - so be aware.

 

Great suggestion, but unfortunately the '53 doesn't have ball joints, and so binding would become a problem as you move the A-arm mounts. That's the part that makes this a challenge. We are trying to make it look somewhat stock, which make this harder.