1952-59 Ford Rebuilt 215 oil question

Just had the 215 rebuilt and was wondering what type and weight of oil is recommended here? Also synthetic or regular?

 

Since you are dealing with a flat tappet engine break it in with this:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bpo-009-7120 and this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99003-1 You should not switch to a synthetic for at least 6,000 miles.After at least 3,000 miles break in switch to this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-State-Higher-Mileage-Engine-10W30-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/14958695 which has extra zinc.

 

Thanks for the reply. .. hasn't ever heard about waiting for 3000 for the synthetic switch. Thanks again. Someone locally (Las Vegas) suggested 10w40 instead of 30. Any ideas on that?

 

After wiping out a cam and having similar issues in other vintage motors, I have been using Joe Gibbs racing oil. They actually make a "hot rod" oil (I use HR1 which is a conventional 15w-50) that has a high zinc and phosphorus content. My engine builder suggested it and we used to use a similar product when I worked for another engine builder with a lot of success. If you want to go full synthetic, they make it in both conventional and synthetic in 10w-30 and 15w-50. I always like a heavier oil for the older motors, especially in the summer. From what I understand, the Brad Penn is the compe***or and might be the same quality at less cost but I know the Gibbs works, so even if it may cost a little more, I'm going to keep using it.

Oh, I guess it would make sense to tell you that I'm running a high compression 215 with oversized pistons, custom cam, big valves, lightened, balanced and blueprinted, etc, etc.

 

The 30 wt with additive is better for break in in these older engines,once the break in period is over then you can run multi-grade oils like Quaker Defy with the extra zinc,stay away from the other multi grades that have decreased ZDDP for emissions.