COE Salvaging a 1938 Ford COE

I got the windshield opening tacked back together. After looking at the truck and planning things out, I've decided on a 2" pancake of the roof. I believe this will give me the perfect proportions I'm looking for. Here is where I'm at so far.

When you look at this view, the big forehead is almost gone, but that is because about 1.5" of crown is gone with the center of the roof cut out.


Here on the side view, you can see how high the roof crown still is.






I'm going with Greg's thinking and pancake the roof...

 

As the girls I know would say...it looks "cute"

 

That's looking good!

 

65standard
very inspiring work .... again !
i already followed your `53 chevy truck project with great interest

btw
i will start on a `54 chevy truck this weekend

 

I got a little side tracked today and wanted to see if I can salvage these front fender. These are Rick's old fenders as he opted for new ones.





Here is the left fender before restoration.



With the paint stripped off.



After some time smoothing out the little dings.

 

What the hell, the door sagged so someone beat the fender until the door cleared?
Nice work, I sure can't fix panels like that!

 

I suspect it was just beaten during use as a farm truck, but you're theory could be just as good.,,

Amazing work Tony!! Thanks for showing it. What tools did you use?

 

Quote; " ...After some time smoothing out the little dings..."

yeah rrright ... little dings is a understatement

i wish i could work sheetmetal like you do

i would also be interested in your technique
a fender on my DiamondT was badly dented ... pounded it roughly back in shape... but its still ugly

 

I'm thinking this was beat down on purpose. Both fenders are beat down where the step pad was screwed on. The step pads masked the severity of the damage. My theory is the same as Steve's. The doors were catching up on the fenders and they just beat them down right on top of the rubber step. With the pads still on, the fenders still looked fairly smooth.

I used an Ewheel to smooth out the damage. I still need to use the shrinking disc in combination with a ******* and dolly to metal finish that area. No bondo will be used on the restoration of these fenders.

 

I finished up the bed fabrication. I will bring it home and mount it to the ch***is this weekend. I still have to make the cross sills to support the wood flooring and the bracket to mount the super winch at the front of the bed. I also finished up the 10,000lbs hitch, but I'm sending it out to get galvanized.

 

That is looking great!

 

65, How wide is the bed, outside to outside?

 

Hey Steve, the bed is 60" wide, 36" tall, 90" long. That is out to out of the 12ga sheet metal.

 

I like that look for a truck bed. I'm thinking about slitting a 1 1/2 - 2" tube and welding it on the top edge instead of the flat stock like you used. I will need 120" long and 80" wide to match my sleeper, plus 8" wide fenders. Hope it doesn't look pregnant, being that wide.

 

One year anniversary today...

With all the engineering and design figured out, it's time to concentrate solely on rebuilding the cab. This cab was s****ped by the previous owner in favor of a better one. I decided to salvage it and do a high-end build with it. Now out with the rust and in with shiny new metal. I will fabricate most of the new metal. I will use whatever reproduction patches I can find.

Cutting out all of the rot on the right side. The bottom 5" of the wheel arch is gone, the bottom of the jamb is gone, and the rocker is gone.



The top of the wheel arch is Swiss cheese.





Restored wheel arch, rocker, lower jamb, rear floor, mid floor, and battery box lid.







And starting on the lower hinge Jamb. This area was rotted away too. New piece formed and test fitted.







And I picked up a set of Ford 16x6 Alcoa wheels. Bolt pattern same as the Chevy ch***is. I only have to make some centric rings to use them. I'm still undecided on using them or not.

 

I got the super duty hitch made, plated and mounted. It looks like a well designed part of the truck and not a add-on. I'm going to leave it in the bright, non directional finish to match the rest of the satin stainless.

 

Fabricating the right side apron. Not easy with all the shape in it. This part continues with the contoured of the truck.











I have a little too much shape in it where the writing "right side" is. I will use my shrinking disc to pull some of it out and get it perfect.

 

Nice work Tony!

 

Have to agree, real nice metal work Tony.

I am only grateful that the body on mine was in pretty good nick.

Well done Tony

 

Tony you are the man !

 

Nice work!

I like the Alcoa wheels.

 

Fantabulous work
And first blush I prefer steel wheels with 5 hand holes.
But if you're going for the big buck truck, I think polished aluminum is the way to go.
Love to study your pics though! Thanks for sharing them!

 

I doubt if I'll use the Alcoa wheels, but I'm still making the centric rings so I can use them. Back to work on the cab restoration.

Here I made new battery straps with a mounting tray. I found a '67-'69 camaro battery tray works out well.



I'm replacing all of the rusted and broken weld in cage nuts with new ones. I removed the inner fenders to do this.



Then I welded in a new inner fender from Northern Cl***ics.




And I finished repairing the lower jamb. Good as new.

 

Very impressive metal work
Rob

 

Nice progress!! I noticed that the local metal yard has a giant roller? (makes curves form flat stock) and will roll steel to spec the other day... made me think I should steal your bed design.

 

Oh, 1 more thing.... the DRWs behind that sweet rear panel look BAD***!!!!!!

 

You are doing some great work...

Be careful with your bolt heads on the door hinges as they may stick out too far and hit the door. You can buy the longer stock bolts from Mac's Antique auto parts. They require the special washers.

I like the Alcoa wheels, but on your truck, I think I prefer the steel wheels. Looks like you'll have to have two sets..,.LOL

 

I think the hinge bolts will clear, but I won't know for sure until I hang the door again.
Rust repairs continue on the cab. Just about done with the lower right rear corner.

Getting the cab corner fitted.


Welded up and metal finished.



The plywood floor completes this corner.



Now on to the lower left rear corner for restoration.

 

Fantastic work!

 

Working on restoring the left rear corner.


Cutting out the bad.




Forming the new wheel arch.




Shaping the new inner rocker



And the rear floor.




When you start rebuilding a cab this far, you really get to see how it was designed and how each piece ties into the next piece.



Next, I'll rebuild the lower hinge area and fit the new inner wheel tub.