Hello I haven't been here in a while but im in bad need of a set of gage's for a 1955 ford customline as I think I burnt mine up when I swaped over to 12v. if anyone has a set please email me with what you want for them. rjparrish49@comcast.net thanks a lot if I knew how to post pics I would like to show off my 1955 ford.
If you did not install the gauge voltage regulator when you went 12 volt that may be your issue.Here is the fix:http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=C6DZ-10804-A NAPA also has these take them the Ford part number here and have them cross it over it is about $12 less dough. Ford used 6 volt gauges with these up to the 80's.
Several years ago, my brother put a set of gauges from a 1980's F 150 in his 47 sedan. The gauges were identical. Screw them in and go.
I found some gage's but I cant get them to work I put a voltage reducer on them and im only getting 5.5volts to the gage.s the gas gage pegs the needle and wont move and the heat gage just stays on the h. mark I tested the wires and im getting fire I just put a new sending unit in the gas tank and the heat sending unit is new also. I have a 302 in the car don't know if that would make a difference. also my oil light and gen light don't work but the wires are hot .
If you went from 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground try reversing the the leads on the gauge wires,also if you swapped to an alternator you cannot use the generator idiot light if you do it is a fire hazard you need a volt meter.READ this:http://www.ebay.com/gds/6-to-12-volt-conversion-1955-ford/10000000001571127/g.html Especially section #13 From your album it looks like you have a Ford 302 your post above mentions a "305" which some folks would think SBC and wrong senders.
Jeff: I beg to differ on a couple of points. You do not need to change polarity on the gauges when converting to negative ground. If changing to 12 volts, you do need either a 1957-up type voltage reducer powering the gauges or at least a Runtz type voltage drop resistor for each gauge. I converted mine with the Runtz type reducers 10 years ago and both temp and fuel gauges work like a top. Also, unless you are running a 1 wire alternator, the Gen light is a must as it provides the excitation needed to "turn on" the charging system. Plus the light shows when you have a no charge situation. Again, 10 years with no problems for me. As to our original poster's problems, ***uming the gauges are not fried, I believe he needs to use the Y-block temp sender in the 302. Also he should check to see that the original fuel sender hasn't been "monkeyed" with. By the way, there are fuel and temp gauges on e-Pay now...at least as of this morning. I think they may mention being for a T-Bird, but they are the same. Brodie
sorry there JeffB2 my mistake it is a 302 ford can you tell me if the gas sending unit needs to be grounded to the body or frame as I did put a new sending unit in the tank but there is only one wire connector on it.
The gas tank sender needs a good ground to the frame which is best also make sure you clean the area to bare metal and use a star washer for more bite.Rather than fight the Ford idiot lights I would add this little unit which already has matching senders and a volt meter:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-2-Mecha...d=100005&prg=1088&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=200947264435&
Hay guys I finely got it figured out it was my stupidity I was running the gas gage wire to the grounded side of the sending unit and the hot to ground dume *** me should have knowned better.got my heat gage working and my oil pressure light working just had to use the 55 sending units. again my fault . but anyway guys you are all a great help no matter what. this is the best site on the net for help and information. Thanks Bobby
well you know my temp gafe still dont work its at the h mark when i crank it up then it moves very slow to the c mark but it dont stay there it will go back p*** the h mark and stay. i checked the connections several times and im getting 5.5 volts to the gage and i have the y-block temp sender in the 302. just cant figer it out any help will be appreciated, thanks
Did you use pipe dope or teflon tape on the sending unit? If so, that is a no-no. The sender needs to be grounded at the engine. Do you have a ground strap from the engine to the body and frame?
Check the temp on your engine block with an infrared gun. When I put a S/W temp gauge in my 56, it ran at 240° all the time. I ended up needing an in line reducer from the sending unit.
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