I've got my eye on a 49 Chev Fleetline and before I make the 4 hour trip to check it out, I just wanted to know what problem areas I should check out. The car "ran went it was parked"...the current (second ) owner pulled the gas tank to have it cleaned and it hasn't replaced it ergo it hasn't run since. I don't know much about Chevs so any sage advice would be mucho appreciatted! Thanks! http://www.canadatrader.com/usedcar...9_CHEVROLET_2_DOOR_TORPEDO_BACK_15974118.html
Looks good man, try to talk him down as much as you can on the price but that isnt bad as is. Its a 2door fleetline, lots a people love to do those cars up, look at www.50chevy.com hes a HAMBer and has some great info and eye candy.
The only problem areas i can tell you about are common rust out areas : floor boards, rear wheel arch, around back window corners and under trim in the quarter glass area on the beltlline and the under the trunk where the body meets the splash panel. Almost forgot the trunk pan.
I have owned several 49-52s, and all of them have had a little rot in the rockers where they meet the rear fenders under the rock guard. The panel under the trunk likes to rot also, but there are lots of places that make replacement panels for them.
I have a 50 deluxe. Ant where ther is trim, beltline, grill, gravel guards, lower trim below door, will rot. especially whre the sinde window trim and rain gutters dump into the beltline trim. also open the trunk. there is a dip where the trunk floor meets with the rear valance. that will hold tons of water and will rot. My POS is rotted in all there areas and it a south carolina car. I can't image if it were left out like it was in Canada
Easy easy easy advice, for what it's worth: You're going to have the old style steering box. If you want a really easy swap, get yourself a '53-54 chevy steering box and column. It'll still be manual, but you'll be amazed at how easy it steers. Bonus: this swap will also get you turn signals if you play your cards right. The old 216 is almost a direct swap for the later 235 and 261, but not the 194/230/250/292. Just make sure you're getting the later full pressure 235, not the early style splash oiled 235. Check the lower A-arms for cracks. If it's there, you'll probably see it. I thought mine was an anomaly, but I've since talked to a couple of other guys whose A-arms folded up. If it is cracked, I'm pretty sure you can swap in any 49-54 crossmember. Again, IIRC, '49-51 had motor mounts on the crossmember, '52 up had side mounts. On the other hand, pre-'50 used the old style (crappy) brakes. Plan to upgrade. Buy a shop manual. Until it arrives, this'll help: http://chevy.tocmp.com/1949_53shop/index.htm
Hey Steevil, Nuther local guy even. Cool. You've got the sweet little four banger Ford in town right? Got some exp with these chevs, had my 52 for about 7 years, picked on many for the parts and helped out with a few along the way. Depends on what you want to do with it.... If you're looking for something to just clean up and drive, here's what I've noticed outside of the obvious '50-year-old-car' stuff: -Rusted body mounts/drivers floor. Always. -Rusted frame supports - right where the MC mounts under the drivers floor. Always. -Rust where the back fenders meet splash pan. -Door mechanisms are usually junk. -216 is complete junk - but fairly easy to do the 235 swap. -Front suspension: Idler arm & control arm bushings are usually dead/dying, king pins too. Hell, if you're looking for somebody to ride along, I might be able to, and would be happy to help.
Hmm, the price may be a bit high. That is what I paid for my 51 Coupe 3 years ago and it was a running/driving car. Although it kinda depends on what part of the country you are in too, prices seem to vary a lot.
I agree the price may be a little steep. I got a running almost driving car (needed brakes) with a really bad paint job for 1k less 2 years ago. All depends on what you want as a end result and how much your willing to spend. I saw some cars for twice the $$ that woulda saves me quite a bit in the long run. (Since paint/bodywork can run some big $$ I woulda been better off spending 4-5k for a car w better paint) All depends on your goal with the car. I would also check the rear of the trunk, water can sit there and rot it out. Check all the mentioned places for rust and mechanical problems, then talk him down from there. Hopefully it is a solid car.
that price is high unless he can proove that it runs and drives. I have a 50 FLeetline DeLuxe. Awesome car. YOu can get just about every part for it new. I can get most any mechanical part from the local parts store in a day or less and any trim, lenses, etc in less than a week. Mine has a '55 235 in it. Very solid and can cruise at (or near) highway speeds (it just takes a little longer to get there). The Huck brake system sucks, but you can easily swap in 51-54 Bendix brakes. ChevyTalk.com will have lots of good advice as well.
Take your hand and see if you can crush the 4 body supports. IF they collaps in, its pretty bad. usally the passenger side is worse. You cant get them repops. you could get 55 chevy ones and try and make it work.. Never did it.
Check the left A-post for rust, too. All of the ones I have had, have had rot in that post from minor to major. Eventually it runs down into the hinge pillar and my parts car the hinge mounts rotted out. I had a coupe which has holes in the metal in this area, too. A little lead in the top corner is normal. If it's possible, you should remove the inside window frame or use something to pry up the windshield rubber and examine the hidden parts of the windsheild flange. My good '50 had some rot in this area hidden by the gasket. It didn't have any glass in it when I got it, so it was easy to find. There's three layers of metal all welded together here and the rust will start to seperate them. This makes it hold even more moisture. I sealed it up the best I could with a couple of coats of POR-15 before I put the glass in. Seems to me Chev's of the 40's has body mounts, but they're not cheap. All of the lower panels are available, although no one makes a full quarter that I have found yet. The floors are all available also. That said, $3500 Canadian is what... $2500 US? You might take a look on eBay and see what's selling there. I have seen some really nice cars selling for close to the same money or less. As in running, driving, on the road now. I paid $200 for mine and at first glance it doesn't look much different than the one in the ad, except I had to put just about all the glass in it. From what I've been able to sort out, unless I tear it down and do it from scratch, I wouldn't make a whole lot on it if I wanted to sell it.
Good advice from all the Fleetline Pros. Ck the car out good for hidden body repairs. If the car has no rust, it might be worth the price but that price is a little high for Canada...what do I know
All great advice ... May I add - buy a roller '53 - '54 parts car for the parts you'll need thruout the entire suspension. The rear axle ratio will be a 3.55 or 3.70 which you'll need. Master cylinder diameter was reduced in these years, making pedal effort easier. '54 engine is a bolt-in, most need rebuilding as they have a "soft block" reputation. 3 speed trans has rollers in the cluster instead of bushings I seem to get along with 216 Chevies a lot better than most people, and if the thing is still in running condition, would finish using it up. If it turns, rock the fan back & forth a dozen times after you squirt oil down the plug holes. Seized or any clunking sounds, I'd start hunting a 235 - 261 core. If not, drop the center link and pull the pan to check for acid etching in the bearings; if OK, plastigage the rods, adjust (pull shims) to .0015. Mains are shimmed as well. Aim the squirters if you can find an old timer with a target. Bolt it back together, adjust the valves, and fire it up ... the Doug Bell "Cast Iron Wonder" book says the secret to making a 216 Chevy last is 10W oil year round ... with all the new oil technology available since that was printed, something in a 5W-30 will work. Flow, not pressure keeps things working, 8 lbs hot idle is a tight engine. Adjusting the valves to .006 intake, .016 exhaust helps keep exhaust valves from burning, do it often. With a 3.70 axle, the 216 will live just fine at 70 MPH. If you plan long haul trips far from home, change the timing gear to aluminum and install a Melling oil pump. When they're right, they're great ... when they splode, they're spectacular !! 302
Thanks for all the sage advice fellas! I finally talked to the owner and IMHO, the car is way over priced. cons; 1, Floor needs to be replaced 2, original fuel pump was so flogged, he wired in an electric 3, Gas tank is full of holes 4, brakes don't work 5, clutch is seized 6, interior is trashed. pros: 1, he can deliver the car 2, body is completely rust free (allegedly) 3, engine isn't stuck 4, last ran in 1996 5, all glass is good 6, original paint Essentially, it is a rolling chassis. The above mentioned negative are easy enough to fix but $3500 Canadian dollars for a rolling chassis is a little steep. Once again thanks for all your help, I think I will pass up on this little gem
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