Gonna redo this old gas tank (pretty rusty) and found that Por 15 makes a kit to clean and seal rusty gas tank for $55. Any good? I've used Por 15 chassis paint and liked it. Thanks Jerry
I used it on a tank that had a lot inner surface rust (no holes) about 5 years ago. The rust particles kept clogging up my in-line filter. Worked great and haven't had any problems since. Just remember to follow the instructions, don't skip any steps and be careful get as much of the old shit out, as possible. I put in small sones, nut & bolts and a length of chain with the cleaner and kept shaking & turning it until I was satisfied I got as much crud out as I could. Take your time and you'll be happy with the results.
I can't speek from experience, but this topic comes up a lot on another board I frequent (about antique tractors ) and what TagMan says is the general answer. Be sure to follow the instructions to the TEE and DON'T cut corners or it can and will go bad on you! There are other brands of selants too, many on the other board recomend talking to a bike shop in your area, they do this on mototcycle tanks frequiently (so they say, again no personal experience) and they can point you in the right direction as well. Just another option... Good luck, and let us know how it turns out
I used it in my '29 chivvy tank. The ends are soldered on, so I removed one end and sandblasted it, squeaky clean. Then re-soldered end and sloshed with the product. No problems at all now for over 2 years to date. I helped another person re-do a tank where the sloshing compound had all deteriorated, came all loose. What a mess, plugged everything up tight! I don't know for sure, but suspect the instructions weren't followed correctly the first time around.
Used POR-15 Tank Sealer for a few tanks (motocycle), and it is the shit. I mean it, nothing else works better (I could have probably sealed holes with the stuff and it would be fine. It appears to be very hard and tough when cured, like a tank within a tank. It is however, quite labor intensive, it takes a fair amount of time to prep the tank/metal, and regardless of what product you use, this is where the success or failure counts (open ventilation too, man, I think I took a few years off that weekend!!) Bottom line, nothing better out there that POR-15 for tanks (no, I am not affiliated), and I have tried a few others that are supposedly 'very good'. Good luck.
I LOVE the por-patch paste they sell as well,I have used it on some really shitty tanks that were still shiny on the inside,sand blast the outside,fill all the holes with the por-patch ,but let it dry for a few days ,you can check for pinholes by putting a light inside the tank in the dark,when you are happy there are no more pinholes paint the outside with a couple of coats of the por-15 paint,it will never leak again.The tank sealer slosh stuff is great as well as long as you got the tank as clean as possiable,use thier marine clean and or thier metal ready solution.The last one I did had holes big enough that I could get the blaster nozzle in an blast it,that is best if it is real rusty.The por-patch stuff is an awsome product for fillin holes in anything you can even glue steel together with it,if you have pinholes in a floor etc ,its great for that,for bigger holes if you can tape one side ,then let it cure.But like any POR stuff you have to use it properly!! Koolkemp
The tank in my nova is leaking. for a while I'd just have a spot the size of a silver dollar after parking it all day at work... it is slowly getting worse. Should I give this stuff a shot? How much does it cost and how much time could I expect doing the repair? The car is my daily driver, so wondering how long it will be off of the road. Thanks.
A complete fuel tank kit runs about $55 - includes everything you need. For bigger holes, I have used the POR Mesh. After putting on the first coat, cut out a piece big enough to cover the hole, dip it in POR-15, then put it over the hole, and let it dry. It will need a second coat. They have a kit for motorcycles too. It is very important to let the inside of the tank dry. I run air through it using an air nozzle with a piece of 1/4 inch brake tubing about 12" long attached to it. The Metal Ready can be reused. Tom - restorit
Start to finish it will probably take 2-3 days. Depends on the temperature and the amount of rust in the tank. It will take longer with temps under 60 degrees. If you were lucky and did not need to remove any rust from the inside, you could probably remove the tank and use some of the POR Patch but it may need more since the leak is getting worse and there may be other soft spots in the tank. My wife was driving her 92 Mustang Convertible and ran over a tailpipe putting a hole through the protective plastic cover and the tank, right in a spot that was ready to rust through. By the way, the guy I do some work for is a POR-15 dealer and we have used it a lot. Tom - restorit
It worked great for me, too great actually. I didn't think about the pickup screen in the tank before sealing it. So I realized I couldn't get any air through the pickup and something must have gone wrong. Had to knock out the rivets on the pickup to pull it out and found out it turned the screen in to glass. So be sure to pull that kind of stuff out before trying it. Also, it makes a mess on your clothes. I've washed the shirt I was wearing to do it at least 15 times since and the spots of the sealer are flexible yet solid (if that makes sense). It also soaked through to the skin, got that off right away though, but I wouldn't recomend it and niether do the directions.
I tried it a few years ago, it looks like a pretty good product. I tried to seal a tank that was more like a strainer. My error. It sealed 99% If your tank is not too bad, it should work Bob1743
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