I got on its own suspension. This how it will sit with 33" rear tires, and 24" fronts. Im real happy with it. Now to find the right tires and wheels for it? Any suggestions?
Jeez Jim, give you a new shop and you really go like hell on the builds... That looks awesome!!!! What are you using for a tubing bender?
Man, I'm liking that a lot. Love the engine mounted up high. How about 12 spoke spindle mounts up front and ET 5 windows out back. The 5 windows look grat with a 33" tire. Polished rims and cast spokes? Get some good road music ready for the trip to Mokan.
I can't tell from the profile shot. Are the tires going to sit completely outside the body or tucked in at all? Either way will look good. It will look even better with front wheels about 3 feet in the air. Let me know if looking for some 12 spokes.
\ Yes I am lookin for 12 spokes. And the rear wheels will be inside 4" and outside 12". I am goin for a cartoon dragster on the street look.
"FRANKENSTEIN" I tell ya,"FRANKENSTEIN" I Like It! Maybe you and Little Man can duke it out at 2006 "HAMB Drags" T.OUT
It will be built as a street car. I want to be able to pull the front wheels off the ground, but I am more concerned with it being a good driver. As far as cartoon car , I mean I want it to have serious jaw dropping capabilities when I pull into 7-11 at 2 in the morning, and I dont want it to look like a dragster with license plates on it.
Nice work, I can picture it just how you say at 2am...boss! The 12 spokes would look cool, maybe the bolt-ons though so you can have brakes? Also I think it would look cooler with Torq-thrust 5 spokes than slots...grey spokes polished rim? To match the fronts?
Littleman is the man. i would be honored to even run on the same track as that man. I would love to have this car done for the drags, We will see.
dude, nice project, but whats with the motor mounts? As long as thay are wouldn't you twist them with that hemi's torque.?
yeah, those motor mounts better be at least some thick wall DOM. i like that red and black hot rod in the background. 2 am, 7-11, el cajon court house.
I can't wait to see that thing on the road around here. I'll keep my out for some wheels in the area.
Is the motor just mounted by those two front mounts up high? If so, then in my uneducated don't know shit opinion, I'd say no. I would think you should add mounts on the block for better balance, and to eleviate the leverage effect of just using those mounts would have. Again, I don't know what I'm talking about, but it just seems a bit worrisome to me. BTT for others to chime in.
Well, I have been told that chromoly is equal to mild steel that is 4 times its size. That would mean these mounts are as strong as 1 3/4" 250 wall mild steel. If that is the case then they will be plenty strong. but I am no genius, so I would love any educated views on this? Jim
Jim, I am not questioning the strength of the steel, I have no doubts it would be strong enough. The design is what concerns me and I'll elaborate a little on why. Again, I'm no expert, just my shooting from the hip thoughts. The rotating assy, as you know is down low. Therefore the forces on the mounts up high like that may not be that much and they may just move with the engines oscillations. But it could shake the hell out of everything. With the mounts so far away from the balance point I'm worried about leverage on the mounts you have. As an example, take a bowling ball and hold it in your hands in front of your chest like the Allstate "good hands" logo. Pretty easy, well balanced, right? Now take that ball and with both hands, hold it away from your body. This is how I see the design. If you triangulated your mounting rods, I'd feel a little better about it. I also don't think motor mounts should be attached to the head for some of the reasons I described above. I have never seen that as the main mounting point, and I'm guessing there is a reason for it. Not trying to shit on your work (I think this is going to be a helluva cool ride), just want you to be safe!
Comit is on the same page as me. I think the factory mounts were located close to the crankshaft centerline becose of torsional(sp) strength. With your mounts bolting up to the water crossover your giving the engine a boat load of extra leverage against the mounts. On a side note, cylinder head removal with your mounting points would be that much more of a bitch. Exparemental parts can some times be hazerdous to your helth, ask Big Daddy Don Garlits and his half a lert foot. Im not trying to bust your balls, just your mounts scare me more every time I look at them.
Good points. I never thought of the oscilation of the motor. I was just trying to be different, and stay out of the way of the exhaust. The stock mounts kinda kill the headers I want to make for it. Well maybe I need to step back and take a second look at it. I will let you all know in a couple of days. Jim
Jim, I don't think you need to use stock mounts, just the location. What about something that comes off the frame rails as a cradle. Basically a tube bent underneath rail to rail and then on the tube, directly below the stock block mounts weld attach points. This is really a crude rendering, but here goes. Along that bent tube line would be welded mounts. If you kept them close together and they hugged the block, you might be ok for header clearance. Disregard all the periods "." I had to put them in to properly space them. Sorry for this, I'm at work! Rail....... Rail |-..........-| | - - - - - | ......^ Bent Tube
One more thought. Since you have the motor sitting where you want it with the mounts you made, what I would do is go ahead and attach the headers, then start trying to figure out a mount system that works. I think there is a way to make it happen and use your headers. Good luck and keep us posted.
Arent those mts up high? Wouldnt that have the same problem as the mounts I made? Just a thought. Jim
Hey Jim,the engine "oscillation" isn't really a factor (been hanging engines by their heads for years). What is important though is for it not to be able to sway from side to side.(in the picture it looks like they can) I really think you should triangulate the mount as mentioned earlier in a way not so much for strength, (like you said,moly is tuff stuff) as to prevent a side to side sway. Maybe tabs with lightening holes in 'em to water pump bolts or struts from the existing mounts to the lower holes on either side of the damper. Later,T.OUT
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