over on hotrodders.com we had a set of T plans that generated ALOT of interest, but they turned out to be property of CCR out of california, and they requested they be taken down and not freely ditrubuted anymore So ive started to create a new set of plans and im trying to cover ALOT of ground here .... in an attempt to give people the cance to pick and choose how they want to build their cars so far, ive had to build plans off of side views of cars where i know the wheel size, using a set of calipers to convert on screen size to "real size" This method takes ALOT of time and then theres thingfs i cant figure out this way ... like i cant properly locate where the ****** mount should be because i dont know the length of a turbo 350 .. this is fine for a simple side to side mount, but i would like to draw up plans for a X brace, and if i guess wrong, the plans are useless and while ive already been told all the places i can SEARCH, it would be MUCH MUCH easier if some of you guys could go measure up on your rod, or if you have some parts your making that your could trace onto paper and snail mail off to me what im looking for: motor mount patterns for the major engine options (so i can draw up plans to trace to metal) steering box mount patterns for all the major options adjustable 4 link rear suspension plans the wheelbase you went with body length bed length heres some of what i have so far, but its slow going considering im not building a T right now, so i dont have a body / engine laying around that i can base the plans off of any good info you guys can throw my direction would be of great help ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** **********
Why keep the rails parallel? Wider in back allows shocks closer to wheels. Also why C the frame and not just kick it up and leave it there? The old Car Craft T bucket plans were 23-1/2" wide at front and 29-1/2" at rear with a 7-1/4" kick up. TH350 is 33", TH 400 32.5 or 38", C4 28", C6 29", 727 34.5", 904 30.5".
my starting point is the CCR plans, which are 26 1/2 front and rear. i cant find any good measurements for what the current "gl*** t bucket bodies are, so its hard to decide how wide i can go with the frame before the body would no longer fit im drawing up a number of different frame profiles to accomidate a number of diffeent options. as you can see in the one picture above, they are drawn up 4 different ways, from the basis kick up, to the c'd frame which could be used to gain trunk space or room for a gas tank & rear mounted battery parrallel rails are great for the "novice" builder as its easier to modify the design because any tubes that run from one side to the other are already a known length, no extra measuring is needed, which is also nice if they build the X brace, as it can be built seperate and slid forward / backward in the frame before welding so that the ****** mount is exactly where its needed the design im calling "sparky" is loosely based off of this car so far: http://rodandcustommagazine.com/featuredvehicles/0509rc_pinkee/
[QUOTE the design im calling "sparky" is loosely based off of this car so far: http://rodandcustommagazine.com/featuredvehicles/0509rc_pinkee/[/QUOTE] Basing plans that a novice could build off of that car might be a little optimistic, don't ya think Just kidding, I realize you're not trying to build a duplicate of it. While I do understand your reasoning for the parallel frame rails, they always looks really homemade in my opinion, they just dont look right. Chances are if the builder has the ability to safely weld & build his ch***is, handling the angles and additional measuring shouldn't pose alot of extra trouble
haha, thats why im trying to cover alot of differnt design options .... theres always that guy thats just getting to the hobby after yars of only restoring cars, or the 17 yr old kid thats building his first rod or something of the sort heck, when i workd at the dealership, "my boss was building a 33 plymouth" , by which i mean he ****ed at designing, fabrication and body work, so he would mahe some parts and have someone else weld them on ... heres what sparky looks like after using one of the other rear frame designs i drew up ... simple as can be
That is one of the finest cars I have ever seen. Not much moves me now a days but that car gave me wood!!! A true piece of art. Good luck with the build - I have a similar dream. The frame I got is an old Cal Customs what the guy told me, and is parrallel which fits my plastic bucket that sits down over the rails nice & tight. Thanks for posting
Change the plans by 20% and tell 'em to screw off. I've been working on my 4 link a little, I draw everything real size. When I finish it up you're welcome to it. Its no skin off my nose. PM me so I'll be sure to find you when I'm done.
heres a shot of the kick up on the back of my track t .......no cad involved in the design ....i just drew it how i wanted it and had a buddy laser them out.....worked out slick .....in hindsite....i would have made the rails come back a couple more inches towards the rearend......but at the time i had a triangulated 3 link on it ....with coil overs.....with the additional bottom rail length i could have deleted the 2x3 extensions .....will have to send some shots of it boxed......the front of the ch***is is stepped 3" with a radius on both top and bottom .....the frame rails are straight from rear crossmember to about the door area....then are tapered in to have the cowl taper to the track nose....originally built on the "art morrison frame jig" ( a piece of plywood) ...but it works good......brandon
Looking at the R&C car, I think your driveline is going to end up above the frame. This will put a serious hurt on squeezing a middle aged **** in. It does make your X member a lot simpler, though. I'm not sure a lowrider can be done for a '23, a '27, an A, etc. I see a 3" driveshaft and a very small ****** to keep it out of the seat, probably stick shift. I'll look to see if I have cross section dimensions of autos, but I think they will seriously crowd.
Starto, thanks for the plans, they will be VERY helpfull in my project as for the size of the seating area, obviously building the plans so the car has a rake will take care of that, and as for building "sparky", bodywork will take care of that unfortanantly, my computer wont run a true 3d cad program, so i just get to do 2d drafting, but below you can see how i would attack the space problem in the image below, the red lines in the side view are the top of the ****** tunnel, and the drive shaft centerline, both approximate the red lines in the overhead view are the 2 smaller diameter tubes ment to fit under the drivers and p***angers ***, also in the overhead view youll see 2 horizontal lines that show the width of the ****** tunnel, and youll also see that the "old" frame rails under the body, those would also be smaller diameter, along with a few other (yet undrawn) small braces to make sure the frame is plenty solid now if only i can convince pops to pull the lincoln out of storage ill have almost all the parts i need to build a 460 powered T ... i get the feeling he wont agree tho
3d & overhead of the frame, green lines on the overhead are the cuts / welds add some smaller diameter tubes as cross bracing, (1 inch ?) damn i wanna build this ... ugh ...
Semi kinda off topic, but has anyone who used the aformentioned bootleg plans ever used an inline 6 in place of the SBC? I'm just wondering if there's enough room on the 103" wheelbase to run a 235/3 speed combo. Thanks, I'll be watching this thread fo sho. Jay
this is an overhead view of a SBC in the standard CCR frame, if you needed extra length you could simply ad, say, 6 inches to the frame, the only measurement you would have to adjust is to add 6 inches to the motor mount location (if i remember correctly) the front hairpin mount measurement would stay the same, and the ****** mount is "figure it out yourself" whats the length difference between a SBC and the I-6 ? add that much to the frame, then an extra 1.5" for good measure and you should be good with that
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