1952-59 Ford frame paint

anyone recommend any anti rust paint or coating for the frame and sheet metal under the car?

 

POR 15, You can't beat it but you have to be careful how you use it. It's been under my 39 for over ten years and it still looks like new. Paul Selfe.

 

I've used POR-15 and Rustoleum.for frames. I primed the frame before using Rustoleum.

 

So with the por-15 do you have to do the same prep as paint?

 

I understand there's some kind of pre-paint stuff made by POR-15 that you're supposed to use over bare metal. I didn't use it (because I didn't know) and my frame started peeling pretty early on. I used Zero Rust last time and it held up well. I had a helluva time sandblasting it off when I pulled the body off the frame to do all over again.

This time I'm using Eastwood's frame primer and paint. Haven't sprayed it yet so I can't evaluate it for you.

 

I used POR 15, that stuff is hard core. The stuff I got to clean it beforehand was their Marine Clean. That stuff also cleans gas tanks really well

 

I could type an hour on por-15..but in a nutshell, I wouldn't do a car without it. Por-15 is made to go over bare metal that has a tooth to the surface. Sandblasting is perfect for getting a proper tooth. If the metal is smooth, the por-15 won't stick, and it will peel eventually. Guys that have had peeling problems have not prepared the surface properly, it's as simple as that.Por-15 is not a paint, it is an ecapsulater, there is a difference...paint is porous when it dries, por-15 is not. Marine clean is a good organic cleaner, I always use a solvent based cleaner first, and the marine clean. Also, their zinc-phosphate is a great product to prepare the surface as well. It etches the surface and helps give the surface a tooth...particularly good on surfaces you can't sandblast. Follow their instructions and you won't have a problem, ignore them and you will.
If you get that stuff on your skin, clean it off right away. It takes 4 hours in normal temps for por-15 to dry on metal, it takes 4 minutes for it to dry on your skin and it'll be there for weeks.

 

I have used POR 15 on the underside of my first rebuild and it is holding going on 9 yrs. I would only caution that you must put the time in the prep work. Don't try to take short cuts or you will be sorry.

On my sons car we used Eastwood just to see the difference plus it was a lot easier to work with. However it isn't on the road yet so I don't know how well it holds up.

 

I should have mentioned that you don't want to apply por-15 on a real humid day. Water is the activator that reacts with the por-15 to cure. That moisture is absorbed from the air, and if there is too much humidy, the final finish will end up rough, almost like home texturing paint that has sand in it. It won't affect the sealing properties of the por-15, only the appearance.

 

Have to agree with Texas57 POR 15 is the best when they say 'We know what permanent means' they are telling the truth used it on my 29 and thats been 6 years ago READ INSTRUCTIONS and you will have no problems

 

Check out KBS as well. A little cheaper than POR15.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal.html

 

Friend of mine swears by ''bridge paint'', yup the stuff used by hi-way departments to paint bridges. He buys it a industrial paint supply stores. Claims its indestructible.

 

I have used POR 15 on a couple of frames, and it is durable and looks good.

 

nice! thanks for the info and help