Hey guys, In going through lots of pics on this site and others, it seems many have converted to 12v. How many of you are running the 6v setup still? Do you plan to swap or what keeps you from converting? Thanks Dave
Ford used cloth insulated wires in our 50's Fords,over time they just rot away and are prone to shorting in many cases also since they did not have a fusebox for each circuit they just cry for updates.Many of us are spoiled and most add on accessories are 12 volt so again we have to update.If you need to rewire check out Rebel Wire who is an Alliance vendor: http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-products.php?cat=Wire Kits they now offer a universal 6 volt system but it is cheaper to go 12 volt and many of us here used the 9+3 kit,when you call them let them know you are a HAMB member for a discount.Their Tech service after the sale is top notch.
Hell, I have an EZ wiring kit sitting under the bench if I need it. I was just curious as to how many stick with it. I may someday change it all out but I can go with the kit or just order all the sectioned harnesses from one of the vendors I see selling the stock setups. I still think this is a part that I might stay factory on because it's tough to swap it all back if desired. Remember, this will be only a once in a while car that will be built to as close to stock as can be. I have the Fairlane with all the upgrades as a daily cruiser.
The problem with the original wiring isn't just that the looms were cloth wound. Some of the wires are insulated with vulcanised Indian rubber VIR which eventually breaks down and leaves the wire uninsulated and prone to shorting out. The stop light switch and the neutral safety are usually two uses of this cable. Also the PVC insulation eventually goes hard due to heat and cold over the last 50 years. These wires usually crack or break if you try to do anything with them. Do yourself a favour and replace it all and save yourself some headaches down the road. Though resto outlets do sell replacements harnesses they are considerably more expensive than the universal kits and generally won't have the potential for modern accessories as the wires will probably be of much smaller gauge than the aftermarket harness. As you say itis only going to be used infrequently, but you may find that the original system may not function well in that role, due to poor connections, rust, etc. Just my opinion.
I still have 6v in my 52 Crestline and while I plan on replacing all the wire(with modern cloth covered wire), I will never switch it to 12v. Is it a little more finicky? Sure, but that's part of what makes it what it is. It will always have a flathead, 3-speed OD and drum brakes.
The plan is to upgrade to 12v here in the here in the near future. The factory wiring harness is a cobbled together jumbled up mess under the hood, and splices all throughout. It's terrible. If the running lights, turn signals, brake lights, and horn all worked with the factory 6v stuff I'd keep it for now but the problem is none of that stuff is working right so I think it's best to just rip it out and start over fresh. ****s though realizing this needs to be done but in the end I'll still be left with a 100 horse inline six that hates highway speeds
Wake up that Ford six! http://1957-60fords.forumotion.com/t206-1959-223-turbo-f100-build This is actually "Old School" tech brought back,turbo charging has been around for decades.During the 1970's Jimmy Carter "gas crisis" folks were looking for more power and better mileage from the gutless "smog friendly" cars and trucks of that era.Old Hot Rod pioneer Ak Miller had a solution,bolt on Turbo kits for the aftermarket, I sold those when I was with M&M Speed Engineering the average price $450-$800.In most cases they would gain 4-5 MPG and a big shot of power,one customer comes to mind he had a 2.0 1971 Ford Pinto He had added a TRW cam,Offenhauser intake and better ignition.1/4 mile times stock were in the low 21's after the intake and cam and ignition mid to high 17's after the Turbo kit mid 13 times over 105 MPH and a lot less trips to the gas station.
Dave...my 55 Ford is still using 6 volt....the only thing I did is to change cables to 0000....turns over really fast...no problems as of yet....J in CT
There is nothing wrong or inferior about 6 volt systems unless you are building a street rod with modern engine and/or 12 volt accessories. I have 6 volt systems on all three of my Fords and my Mercury. Complaints about poor performance of 6 volt systems are usually due to deteriorated wiring, poor connections, bad grounding, etc. With a new original style wiring harness and a good strong battery these cars will perform on 6 volts every bit as good as a 12 volt system. In fact, I have both original power windows and power seat in my Ford Convertible and the windows/seat both move more quickly on 6 volts than the windows/seat in my modern Lincoln on 12 volts. And this is with a standard 35 amp. generator/regulator. I think a lot of owners of these cars get frustrated with poor electrical performance and rather than find the root cause they try to "fix" their problem by changing over to 12 volts. I see no need to make the switch so long as you are going original and not running modern engine or accessories. Alan S. Freeman
I think I'm going to go with the factory 6 volt replacement stuff. Modern or repro, I'm not worried. We're really wanting to keep it as close to stock as possible or at least have upgrades that were as era close as possible. Seat belts, white wall radials and dual MC with self adjusting drums are a must. Just need to work on the 6volt turn signal setup. My factory 52-54 shop manual says turn signals were an option with a plug or splice in harness. That would be cool to get ahold of one of those kits to install it. Thanks for the re***urance guys. I'll save the EZ kit for my Fairlane project as planned. Thanks guys. Can't wait to get our new house with my shop soon. I really want to get busy on this car.
I need to rewire my ' 54 and the Rebel Wire 9+3 kit looks like a great value. I am however, leaning toward a 6V alternator (more expensive) at this time but Delco 10si one wire alternators are a dime a dozen. A 6 volt tach is the only hangup. I believe Westach makes them. But first, clean and treat the gas tank, and replace the rear spring bushings and shackles and bolts and front stabilizer end kits, then a front suspension rebuild w/ Aerostar coils.
If the car is primarily to go short distances close to home 6 volt may be fine,if you plan to cruise and you have an electrical issue come up out on the road it will probably not be EZ to find repair parts and towing won't come cheap.Reproduction 6 volt wiring is costly from most vendors so take that into consideration also the overall value of 52-54 Ford Mainlines and Customlines in restored condition is at the low end of the scale compared to other models,so bottom line is it really a "bang for the buck"?
My '55 Country Sedan is still 6v. The only thing I did was have a 6v. alternator installed. Made a huge difference. I keep a float charge on the battery and it has served me well for 5 years. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I have been complimented many times at shows regarding the fact that it's still 6v. It cranks over slow, but it starts. Thinking of throwing a new set of plug wires on it this summer. Parts are still available from Mac's. Sounds like the "jury's still out" regarding 6v. electronic ignition, though.
I kept the 6 volt system on all 3 of my 55s, and never had a lick of trouble. The cars were pretty much stock, and there's nothing like the look on youngsters faces when they hear that slow cranking Y block fire up every time. I actually prefer the 6 volt to the 12 volt system in the 56 Monarch. More character.
I really like the idea of keeping the 6 volt but I HAVE to replace the wiring somehow. They are all frayed and open. Something's going to touch something soon enough. I have lots of bare wires. Looking at the catalogs, the wiring in factory style is expensive for these things. I think I added around $600 for the factory stuff and it's not even the whole harness and I still have to tap in for blinkers. I didn't think going factory would be so expensive.
I made mine myself on my first car. just use heavier wire than for 12 volt. If you don't care for original look, and you have much, much, much more time than money, it works. I'd go with the repro original stuff now. The extra cost is worth the saved sanity. And you get to keep it original with all the cool little quirks these cars had back in the day.
I am too much of a purist so I will have the 6V forever. It gets allot of comments at shows and cruses. The only drawback so far is the headlights could be brighter, but that is what they were back then, and anyway I don't drive that much after dark. I did buy all the reducers to covert it over but then just sold them to a guy for his 54' Ford he was going to use as a daily driver. It is all part of the experience.
^^^^^^^^^^ this ^^^^^^^^^^ That's why we drive these things and not a Chevy SSR. ****py wide whitewall tires that follow the road grooves, marginal drum brakes, king pin suspension, horrible handling, ****py A/C, gas mileage measured in gallons per mile, etc. For the experience. For the thrill of yesteryear. IMHO, if you want modern convenience, buy a new car. Or go full hog custom resto rod.
I have my resto rod. 63 Fairlane 4 door with a 4.6 DOHC, 4 link 8.8, Mustang II, cruise, AC and air ride. All with the factory color paint and factory interior. I want this thing to be as factory as I can get it save for a few take off items like the seat belts, turn signals and maybe different interior. It's already hard enough to find a good factory interior for the 52 let alone the 4 door. I might have to go with something slightly nicer inside that is close. I'm sure I'll change my mind again and go with the engine mods, wheels, exhaust and all as period specific as possible. The 12 volt thing is not easily swapped back though if I went that route. I need to pick up a 6 volt battery maintainer and I'll stick with this system........until I change my mind again. I keep picturing this thing rodded out.
Hear Hear! (See my posting regarding my 6v. car.) Jay Leno even condones leaving them as-is. They were designed to work that way in the 50's! I recently had to buy a new 6v. battery and was quite pleased and surprised to find one reasonably priced at Auto Zone. In February I was attending a car show in Orlando. A 6v. '54 Chevy Bel Air ran its battery down attempting to start. Out of all the "wrench heads" gathered around it, no one knew that it was possible to jump a 6v. car with a 12 v. system. I had just read it in a magazine! Yes, you have to connect the positive to the battery terminal, and the ground to a frame part, and then pull it off fast as soon as the car starts! Forgot to mention that I had to drive that Chebby back! Also...any thoughts on converting to electronic ignition?
I still have the six volt system in my car. Bought it that way found I didn't need to change it, because it runs good. I just drive during the summer so I don't need high cranking power. I don't stay out much after dark so my headlights don't need to be used..One thing I did do is switch to a alternator 6V. Do not use a 12 volt battery cable for cranking. Your starter will feel like it's dragging, if you use the thinner cable. I use a zero battery size cable real thick, for both ground and cranking It turns over real good. Also I found a nice interstate battery for my car so 6 volt batteries are out there. I have a 12 volt radio in my glove box with a 12 volt battery in the trunk to run it. I hook up my mp3 player and down the road we go. "if it works, don't fu*k with it!"
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