1952-59 Ford Intro and basic Question 52 Victoria

Hello, I just got myself a 1952 Victoria. All original car including paint and has just over 43k miles. Bought it from the original family and its been sitting since 1971.

The motor is stuck, and from what Im reading here its really not worth rebuilding the flathead, expensive and slow. So Id like to get it on the road with as little money as possible for now.

I know there are swap kits for the 289/302 and was wondering if the stock automatic trans will bolt up?

Heres a couple photos of the car the day I picked it up.

Thanks.

 

Welcome from Florida! That's a sweet looking ride. Don't toss that flat head, someone will want it. For a wealth of info on a motor swap and other stuff about our cars, check out the FAQ here.

 

Here is where to find the swap kit:http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=24 When you order be sure to tell them you are a 1952-59 Ford Group member from the HAMB they may offer a discount.For a donor engine a 1988-93 Ford 5.0 with an AOD is your best option,those are the roller Cam 302/5.0's and the AOD from those years also have an improved valve body and lubrication upgrades the earlier years lacked and they are non-computer for EZ hook up.Since your Victoria had an Automatic it won't be hard to adapt the linkage to the AOD either. Welcome to the Group! And no your stock Ford-O-Matic will not bolt up and no adapters are available, the good news is selling the Flathead and transmission as a unit could bring you some nice project cash the Swap meet here at: www.fordbarn.com would be the place to list it since a lot of restorers hang out there.

 

This would be a good donor for the running gear: http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4426759573.html

 

Welcome from So Cal, great looking car. I'm partial to two door hardtops.
You can't go wrong with a 302 and AOD, although I went with a 5 speed.

 

Awesome car! I personally would redo the original flatty.

 

Welcome!

If the body is straight and not rusted out I would restore it. Keep the flathead and all. Of course that is just my opinion.

 

welcome from ontario canada it looks pretty solid I have overhead in mine american 54.but I agree keep flatty.unless major damage just dry seized pull plugs pore in automatic trans fluid mixed with kerosene works wonders.let soak for couple of days at least then try to rock back and forth with breaker bar on crank bolt GO SLOW AND EASY.I repeat SLOW AND EASY it may surprise you nothing ventured nothing gain and small investment of time and cost of 1or2 quarts of ****** fluid and kerosene good luck and keep us posted.if it moves even a little walk away let sit some more repeat walk away repeat dont get carried away if it moves and think it moved and force it to move more took a long time to get seized but less time to unseize.as I said unless major hidden damage crank rods I should have said right off pull plugs if rust or sings of water then disregard my advice either way you go you will be saving a nice old car

 

Yup, if it were my car, I'd at least attempt to save the flatty. They're only original once.

Maybe you get the flatty running and after a couple of years you dislike it... Then put in your 302. But until then, I'd give it a try, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
You can even go one step further and pull off the heads. That way you can see the bores and valve tops. I'd try the ATF/Jetfuel thing first though. It works remarkably well.
Just don't be in a hurry. It dissolves rust, it just takes time...

 

Thanks for the input and welcomes. We have been putting a little ATF down the plug holes for about 3-4 weeks, no movement yet. I think the car was parked in 71 just because no one in the family had any interest in it at the time, so i dont it was parked because something went wrong. The plug holes look pretty clean.

I wouldn't mind keeping the flatty if we can get it to turn.

The body is super, floors and trunk are like new. A little rust on the bottom rear and bottom front fender from sitting in a garage. There's a service tag inside the door, and the oil was changed only 30 miles ago, and 43 years. Oil looks new.

 

Love it! Sounds a lot like my '54. It was parked in 1967 with 57,400.

Except mine is a rusty mess!

 

Since the ATF did not do the job spray some of this in:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-Penetrating-Catalyst-Lubricant-16PB-THD/202597469

 

Nice find---I too have a 52 Victoria--one of my favorite old Ford body styles. That one seems to be in excellent condition. If the flatty's stuck, pitch it. It will cost almost as much to build it as the car is worth.(just my opinion)
Beautiful Car Mike

 

Yep, tried the P-Blaster also. Not budging.
We may pull the heads and see whats happening in there. Id like to run the Flathead but if its going to cost too much to get running the modern engine may be the solution. Thanks again.

 

Flatheads ****. Originality is only important to restorers, and this is a custom car website. I think small block fords are whatever, not my cup of tea but this isn't my car.

But to answer your question, a ford-o won't bolt up to a SBF. Different bellhousing pattern (I do believe? I know the bellhousings are different anyway for stick cars).

 

Another SoCal welcome.

 

For a basic swap looks like I'd need:
88-93 302 and AOD
Brockmans mount kit
65-66 mustang radiator
Convert to 12 volt
Headers (stock manifolds work?)
Do I have to shorten drive shaft?

Can't be that simple, what else?

 

Why Brockmans over Butch's who offers a discount to members? Actually you can use a 1986 Ford Crown Vic drive shaft it will have the correct front yoke for the AOD and this for a replacement rear joint: http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-6076-neapco-2-0291-2c1310-conversion-u-joint.aspx No cutting needed.The HEDMAN 88400's are no mods to install and clearance is great,for manifolds these clear well and cheap:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-FORD-289-EXHAUST-MANIFOLDS-/111296290591 Save this too:http://www.ebay.com/gds/6-to-12-Volt-Conversion-1955-Ford-/10000000001571127/g.html

 

I was just using Brockmans as a example.

Thanks for all the info, this is great. I'm sure I'll have lots of question but I wanted to say thanks.

 

Hey Jeff - Is it only the '86 Crown Vic driveshafts that fit? Or are there other years that work as well?

 

Try using kero, diesel, or Jet A. Either of those should do it over time. Fill the crank as well.
Once it turns, and it eventually WILL turn, go real, real slow.
Like someone said already, you're trying to undo 40 years of seizing in 1 month. Just be patient.
One thing to remember: good flatheads, especially good RUNNING flatheads, are worth $$$.
Take the time needed and get it spinning. It will pay you back in spades even if you hate the engine in the end.
I will tell you, a 53 Vicky with a stock flathead/auto combo will do 0-60 in about 20 minutes or so...LOL.
But they are cool, sound great, and are so, so 'old Ford'.
And to these guys who are "custom car". Chill. It's a 40K original untouched, never focked with survivor. It's worth at least trying to save it first.

 

I think 1986-89 drive shafts are the same,try a place that salvages Fords and ask them to check their Hollander Manual.

 

it depends on what you plan on doing with the car really. I would personally not want anything other than the flathead in a original survivor Victoria. Now a junked out mainline that has been modified repeatedly... different story. Hopefully you can get the flathead running without much effort/cost and see what you think.

 

I agree with that low mile and great patina I would do everything I could to get the old flattie going.. Along with filling it with kerosene,, be sure and leave the plugs out.. Put a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt and pressure on it with a floor jack.. Leave it with modest pressure for a day or so,, and soon it will be free.

Unless you have the bucks to go top drawer on a custom, the resale of a survivor or even an amateur restore will be much greater than a hacked custom.

 

As of now thats the plan, going to try and save the Flathead. We have a belt wrapped around the crank pulley and the other end under a floor jack so when the car is jacked up its pulling the belt to put a constant pull on the crank.

Maybe we need to move on up to the breaker bar and floor jack method.

My dad just retired and he has taken a great interest in the 52 and he really wants to leave the Flatty in it. The car will be great for him to monkey with.

 

Nothing quite like a father /son project.. Go for it and enjoy the time spent.

 

As a fellow 52 Vic owner, and as original as yours is, please, please, PLEASE stick with the flathead.

 

So what about the rear trunk emblem?? Never seen one like that.. Canadian?

 

Not sure about the rear emblem. The car was bought new in Archbold, Ohio. Still has the dealer emblem on the rear.

 

I did a quick look online and found one on ebay. Looks like theres a little extra on the front emblem too. A aftermarket doodad from back in the day.