I will soon be replacing the seat covers on my wagon and was wondering if anyone has a better way to add a hole to run the middle belts to the front seat than slicing a couple of holes with a utility knife (like i did on the old seat). I would appreciate any pictures of how you did yours. it seems like some sort of added reinforcement would be better looking and more durable. any HAMB friendly 4 door with a solid front bench seat would be helpful thanks
I don't think I've ever seen a bench seat that didn't have a bottom and a separate back. When you replace the cover, you should be able to run the belts between the bottom and the back, unless your buying the really cheap seat covers. If that what your doing (buying the cheap 1 piece deal) cut the holes, their not going to last very long anyway. I'm a cheap sob and have learned this the hard way, good replacement type covers last 10x as long as the cheap one piece ones do. Gene
If you're using a 1 piece cover, measure, cut the hole, fold the material back and sew a seam around the hole in the cover. If you don't have a sewing machine look for a place that alters suits, I don't think they would charge much more to do 2 seams than what it costs to hem a pair of pants. Ask a dry cleaner who in the area alters clothes.
On the original on the 59 as well as one from a 61 Belair i have in the care now, the upper cover runs down in the back and wraps over the bottom, thus the problem. two doors do not have this issue. that is what i was thinking, i just cant quite picture exactly what it looks like. thanks for the comments. still would like to see a picture of a similar one.
A piece of 'heavier' material, like vinyl upholstery material for example, in an elongated flat oval shape, sewn around it's perimeter, should provide adequate reinforcement to a belt slot to prevent tearing.
Hnstray has the right idea. I installed new factory correct seat covers on my 60 Brookwood 4-door last Spring and realized, unfortunately after I had the front cover on,that you cannot simply slip the belts through between the bottom of the seat back and the bottom cushion. I had to remove the upper cover, cut my holes, then sew a backing strip around the inside of the cover where I cut the slit for the seat belt p*** through. The backing strip will give you the added strength you need to keep the material from tearing. You will be able to install the outside belt 1/2 so it comes up around the side of the seat. The slits will be for the middle of the seat where the other 1/2 of the belt is. I would also recomend that you install two slits in the back of the top cover about a foot apart instead of trying to slip the belts through one slit in the middle. Putting only one slit/p*** through in the middle will either spread the belts too far apart or likely result in eventually tearing the seat back material because the angle will be wrong. If you have specific questions PM me.
Any idea on the size? I was thinking ~1' all around the slot and a ~1/4' high by ~1/4" wider than the width of the belt anchor. Thanks i will once the seat covers arrive. Here is what the spacing looks like on the old seat I have in there now. It has been that way for a few years with out a problem, so maybe I'm worrying too much about it. Perhaps paying about as much for the covers as the car does that to most budget builders?
I have decided to modify the frame to add cut outs for the seat-belts. the seat cover has a heavy reinforced backing where the holes were added. if needed i plan to make some cover plates.
There you go. An upholstery shop wouldn't charge a lot and one that does furniture probably would think it's a great idea rather than being upset that you didn't have them redo the seat. If you are real cheap, Get a sailmakers needle and the right thread and hand s***ch the openings you cut so they are finished off.
Actually made a couple of samples and was not too happy with the look, although I'm sure they would have done the job. With the p***ages which have been added to the frame it may work to just glue the material and backing and carefully cut the hole. However the plan is to make a set of cover plates of steel that will screw on. Probably will be painted to match the interior trim. Oh one more thing, I may be thrifty, but the real motivation is to learn how to do all aspects of restoring/rodding old cars. Sometimes the jump is too high and the timing to short, (like the top on my Convertible), then the pen or plastic solves the problem. Buying the covers, and not just the materials, was also a concession too. Went that way mainly because I really like the stock seat covers the Nomad had from the factory in 59.
Here are some pieces made of some 1/4" Aluminum to finish up the holes the seat belts will go through. May use these, or I may get some thinner material. Have not been up to cutting the hole in the back of the new cover yet, may wait to try one more type. i think they will look okay, maybe paint to match the trim?
Still have the old seat in the car, so until the new one is in the holes can wait. Still think 1/8" may look better but for now its on to other things, thanks for the tip on cutting the slots, really the way to go.
just like you i have the same problem with the same cover . since i am leaving for the hot rod power tour on thursday i will just have to slice the seat back for now to install the belts and do something similar to what you did when i get home . it came out very nice looking
Looks damned nice to me...ya done good...fortunately our '60 Brookwood two door wagon does not have that same problem...I pulled the seat to look to make sure...!!! I can simply slip the belts behind the seat and punch a couple of holes...the problem with ours is the gas tank is mighty close...!!! R-
thanks, glad you like the =way it turned out as far as the holes, are you referring to the one in the floor or the back of the seat?
Floor...like I said, we didn't have to have the holes in the rear of the seat...ours was two separate pieces-top and bottom. R-
sorry i missed the 2 door comment. for the floor bolts i drilled the holed and place a heavy formed C channel with a welded nut. after locating it o use a pair of plug welds through the floor to keep it on place