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1952-59 Ford C4 Transmission Lines and Cooler?

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by A.P. Photography, Jun 12, 2014.

  1. A.P. Photography
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 285

    A.P. Photography
    Member

    I need some transmission lines and a cooler for the C4 in the 55. For those that have done this swap, what did you use and where did you get it from? I know there is no straight bolt in application but looking for the solution that works the best.
     
  2. Zapato
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 2,195

    Zapato
    Member Emeritus

    Do you have a ****** parts store in your area (not a repair shop) ? Find one that sells parts to walk in customers. Up here we use Oregon Transmissions in Portland. They will direct you to the right parts. I've done a few in the past aluminum lines easy to bend and location mounting is up to you. Lots of guys will mount cooler in front of radiator I prefer mounting it outboard of the frame under the p***enger side door. It will require a shield underneath (stray rocks) think I'll use a shallow baking pan next time and same myself a bunch of fab time. Use rubber mounts both on the cooler to the shield and shield to frame.
     
  3. Zapato
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 2,195

    Zapato
    Member Emeritus

    Sorry, its Portland Transmission Warehouse, 1016 SE Hawthorne Blvd, Portland, Or 97214. 503-233-4966 or 800-444-4556 sales@portlandtrans.com
     
  4. A.P. Photography
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 285

    A.P. Photography
    Member

    Thanks for the info Zapato.

    One other thing I need is the yoke. Will a yoke from an AOD work? I doubt pull a part has any C4's laying around.
     
  5. Zapato
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 2,195

    Zapato
    Member Emeritus

    Best place to find that out is a call or email to Portland ******...........
     
  6. flyboy89
    Joined: Oct 6, 2010
    Posts: 451

    flyboy89
    Member
    from So. Cal.

    What I have used in the past is original cooler lines from a car that had the same engine/trans combo I had in my project. Usually those lines run along side the engine block about the level of the pan and block. I just cut them to fit my needs at the radiator or trans cooler. Saved a lot of time trying to bend two steel lines. It worked out pretty good.
     
  7. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    AOD's and C4 yokes have the same splines there may be a difference in length.As for coolers I used this :http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-687/overview/ It is mounted on the splash pan behind the grille,the lines are two 36" X 5/16" universals from Autozone about $6 each you will need two 5/16" to 6 AN adapters to bolt up to the cooler.These stack type coolers are much stronger and better than the cheap aluminum ones avoid those.It only took two gentle bends off the transmission and a straight shot to the cooler.I'll see if I can get a picture of it posted tomorrow.It's an EZ job.
     
  8. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Side note: most C4's have a 3 1/2" yoke as do most AOD's some AOD's had a 3 7/8" yoke so be sure you measure B4 you buy.
     
  9. Paul2748
    Joined: Jan 8, 2003
    Posts: 2,442

    Paul2748
    Member

    I used a cooler mounted underneath on the frame rail for two cars , both C-4's. One of the cars I ran from NJ to CA and back in the middle of the summer (2013) and had zero problems with the trans. The other has had the cooler on for about 15-18 years without any problems with the trans. Both have what I think was a B & M unit, but not sure. It is a nice compact unit.
     
  10. A.P. Photography
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 285

    A.P. Photography
    Member

    Flyboy, hard for me to find any in the junkyards around here.

    Jeff, please do. It would help a lot.

    Paul, got any pics of it mounted?
     
  11. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    When you make your own lines, either aluminum or steel, sometimes a hose clamp will allow the hose to slip off. One guy over on the HAMB said he likes to solder a ferrel on a steel line and put the hose clamp right behind it. I have a double flaring tool. I make 1/2 of a double flare, both on steel or aluminum, and it works great. Just like downtown and the hose cant get off.
     
  12. A.P. Photography
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 285

    A.P. Photography
    Member

    Thanks Don. Good advice.
     
  13. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    I'll post pictures tomorrow had family come in this morning so did not get out to take pictures,temps are running close to 110 here so laying on concrete or touching metal can send you to a burn unit,:eek::eek:have to do it early.
     
  14. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    If you use clamps, use two 180 degrees apart. If you use the cooler I posted above you will have a better connection with 5/16" to AN6.I am not a fan of clamps I had a pressure line blow off in the dark on a 700R4 and toasted a newly rebuilt 1K investment before I knew what happened.
     
  15. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    here is some Pics,001 is the stack cooler mounted on the splash pan,002 shows the two bends off the transmission after that it's a straight shot to the cooler along side the oil pan in 003 and 004 pictures.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. A.P. Photography
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 285

    A.P. Photography
    Member

    Nothing on this old girl has been easy so far. It has been a learning experience for sure and I would be lost without you guys helping.

    Thanks for the photos. I am going to have to wait a bit it seems before I get all of this hooked up. The front fenders are the only thing left on the front right now. lol
     

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