Some updates. 1. Axle relocated forward 6 inches. Boxes taking shape 2. Quick mock-up for dash modification for radio, center and lower a/c vent
Yes bed tilts with a John Deere hoist in the middle of the bed. 3. I borrowed this idea from somewhere....I modified some old Chinese vice grips to create a tool to add the bead to my fuel filler pipes. Went around the pipe three times and it turned out very good.
That is GENIUS! With the vice grips! I dont know what im gonna use it on but that gives me so many ideers! Iol
I will have several different size tubes to do, so I want to make rollers for my bead roller. (I got weak wrists. Ha) The one pictured is by Mittler bros.
4. New radio has arrived...if anyone asks, it is an AM push ****on radio from a 1961 Valliant ...LOL.
Fighting some SBC engine "operational" issues. Still leaking oil from front timing cover seal. I wonder if the chrome cover is the problem or if I am building up too much internal pressure for some reason? I also have pre-detonation problems. I run a stock HEI with vacuum advance, I set the timing at 4 BTDC and it feels sluggish and detonates going up hills on the highway...dished pistons, 76cc heads, small cam, It ran well on the trip from St Louis to KC, then I broke the valve spring. I replaced all the springs and since then it has never ran quite right...I am feeling frustrated.
I can't imagine a heathy low compression motor detonating with only 4 degrees advance. I like to run 12 degrees advance at idle and 10.5:1 compression on SBCs. Did you try 93 octane fuel to make sure it is detonation and not piston slap?
The basic engine was completely rebuilt by a pro engine builder and it ran fine before the broken valve spring. I did pull the cap off the distributor (my used piece) and it has a lot of up and down movement. I am tempted to buy a new HEI distributor. I have not tried high octane. When I removed the air filter, I found a vacuum hose with a small hole in it. I think the air filter pushes down on the line and the pressure against the hose barb cut the line.
I am wondering is either the cam went flat or if I blew a head gasket last week. I was coming home from a cruise night and it pre-detonated badly on the highway (timing was way advanced) After that is when I changed the timing to 4 degrees.
What other damage did the broken valve spring cause? Why did the valve spring break in the first place? The answers to these maybe the root of all your problems.
Todays Words of Wisdom...."If you chrome it, it won't go". I believe that I solved my engine running issue today. The "chrome" distributor hold down bracket won't hold the distributor down and in place. It is an aftermarket chrome plated cast bracket that is hollow on the underside. The more I tighten it, the more it simply bends. The "v" part of the bracket that should grab the distributor is ribbed and smooth so it won't grab the housing...(insert your own condom joke here) I think the distributor slowly rotates as the engine runs and vibrates, which eventually retards the timing so much that the engine knocks. I easily rotated the distributor housing while the clamp was still bolted tight. Took about as much effort as twisting a door knob. I also double checked all the valves while it was running. Nothing seemed off. I only went 1/4 turn after the ticking stopped. It seems to run fine, but I still need to find a stock distributor clamp. Oil leak in timing cover front seal is next...ugh.
I wonder...is there supposed to be that much twist / friction between the inside shaft and housing on the distributor to make it move when clamped down (albeit semi-loose) OR is it binding up inside due to heat, wear or something else? Maybe I should invest the money and buy a new distributor?
They should spin easily between your thumb and first finger. If something is heating up and binding, that might be a little hard to figure out. One other thing, knocking comes from advanced timing not retarded. Being retarded usually makes them run real smooth and lazy, then overheat.
I learned a long time ago that the chrome cover and oil pans are prone to leaking. When you pull it off, put a stock one back on it or at least take the chrome plating off the gasket surface, they are usually just kinda junky. I have had to do it too many times and have a brand new chrome cover hanging on the wall that was a present that I can't bring myself to put on. I have also had the same experience with the dist hold down clamps, again OEM is the best clamp most of the time. I did find a sweet one, moroso I think, got it for like $5, but is $25-30 retail. It is actually better than a stock one, but you do pay for it. Before you replace the distributor, get the good clamp on it and see what it does, I bet it will fix it. If you can't find one, I am sure I have an extra in the drawer, let me know if you need it.
OEM clamp installed and it seems to work great. On a new note, checked my tires and all six have bad flat spots from setting so long. Six new tires will cost about $900...ouch!
SBC oil leak questions - If the rubber seal between the oil pan and timing cover leaks...will the balancer catch the oil and throw it everywhere? I noticed the rubber seal was half sticking out and upon inspection, it appeared to be split down the center over a 2" length, right at the bottom of the seal. Could internal pressure spit oil onto the balancer? I also noticed that the current (old) timing cover does not align very well with the pan...bent cover, poorly built oil pan or normal? I suspect that the seal leaks...however, there is nothing dripping as it sits and idles and no tell-tale dripping of oil on the pan itself. Everything just has a heavy film of oil on it. The seal at the balancer is still installed tightly in the cover... I also realized that I cannot drop the pan with the engine in the truck. The mount below only leaves an inch of clearance...
I do not use rubber seal by it self , put silicon on clean area and do not push out the seal when tight the pan . Have even used silicon only no leak . I would check timing cover for being built cheap . Will not use aftermarket covers ony chromed stock . Can you drop pan dons far enough to clean are and put back together ? I clean mine with brake cleaner to get rid of all oil and put gaskets on with gaskasinch (sp) and silicone on ends ,good luck . Blue
This truck is just enjoying giving you hell right now. I'm not going to try to answer because I'm unsure what the answer is.
I don't have all the answers on this either, but before I threw anything away, (hard parts) I would goop it up some like Blue suggests and leave the fasteners 1/2 turn loose. After the goop is set crank the fasteners down to recommended torque. A little extra thickness might bridge gaps that shouldn't be there.
The good thing is, the oil doesn't sit that high as long as you don't overfill it. If it does, you have oil splash issues already with the crank weights splashing into the oil upon their down swing. That's not the design. You should be able to drop the front of the pan just the 1/2"-3/4" and replace the front part of the seal. I've done it a few times. Most all the bolts will have to be either loosened(at the back of the pan) or removed (at the front) so it lowers the front. Can you jack up the engine about an inch or two and let it sit on spacers between the engine mounts and frame mounts while you do this? Worst case, leave it as is and the oil would just seep from the seal onto your driveway until the part tears for good. And if you have a good PCV or breather setup, you should have little to no pressure in the crank case. Those setups are on just for that purpose, to remove crankcase pressure buildup from blow-by and such. Good luck with it!
I replaced the really bad chrome cover with a factory GM cover. The fit is MUCH better. I could not replace the entire oil pan gasket so I just replaced the front seal. I gooped sealant everywhere. If it leaks, it is not for lack of sealer! I posted a thread on the main board with some pictures of the before and after fit on the covers. NEVER again will I use a cheap chrome timing cover. Even the new steel one I bought at the performance parts store was just spot welded together, so I returned it. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/help-sbc-oil-leaking-question.837962/#post-10476063 I am almost ready for a road test, but first I need to replace and relocate the coolant recovery tank. I previously installed a cheap plastic recovery tank for my 200 mile road trip, but it sat very close to the alternator and I am not comfortable with that. No room up front to mount it under the hood, so it will have to mount behind the engine over the transmission. While I was under the truck, I ran a ground strap from engine to ch***is and now the gauges work much better. They jumped all over every time I hit the manual fan switch. I could not trust them. I also looked for any loose hard lines and anything else that could rattle.
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