Hey everyone i'm looking for pointers on putting a efi 5.0 in our customline. I have an aod trans for it also..i would like to convert the manual steering to power, and upgrade the brakes too. Can you use the stock rear end? or would it be a better idea to find a newer rear end and swap it out, if so are there any direct bolt on versions?
Check out the FAQ. It will tell you what mounts, years to look for, etc. Brakes are debatable. Some of us have disc and some have drum so it is a matter of preference. From what I have heard you can use the stock rear as long as it is not a built engine. I am swapping mine out for a modified Explorer axle. The later 50's wagons came with 9" rears that are a bolt in. Other then that look for a rear that is 56.5" wide.
I have a pretty decent sbf in my 56 and the stock rear end has lasted so far. lol. The swap is easy and heavily covered in the FAQ section. I have rebuilt stock from suspension and brakes. I did it because money was tight at the time but it would not be my first choice. The first thing to do is get rid of that single pot master cylinder and I would prefer disc brakes. The drums are good for about 2 stops then they start fading so while they work I always leave extra room when driving in heavy traffic. There are plenty of options for front discs from granada swaps to full kits from places like StopnDrop. Below is a link to my photobucket account. I have a bunch of swap pics in there when I put in my 302. http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/library/1956 Ford Mainline?sort=3&page=1
Better linings are the key to less fade,our 50's Fords usually do not have a lot of options for drum linings in the aftermarket usually most over the counter linings are "el cheapo".However many brake and clutch rebuilders can reline your brake shoes with Ceramic or Kevlar linings as is used for commercial and HD trucks this coupled with larger contact area of the shoes compared to the much smaller contact area of most discs will give you some real stopping power.
Ceramic brake shoes are available here: 1952-54 Ford sedans use the same as Mustangs #154 Front and #151 rear http://musclecarbrakes.com/stage16473mustang.html
Hey Guys thanks for the info.. fordsbyjay thanks for the pictures they will help..I want to upgrade the brakes to disc for sure. I'm not sure what to use as far as power or manual. Hey Jeffb2 I found a link for putting a jeep power steering box in but the link is bad or old..is that true that I can use a jeep steering box? A.P. how much mod are we talking on the explorer axle?
Wish I could be more help...the 4.6 dohc efi I am installing in my '57 is significantly different than your project, as is the vehicle. With that said, I suspect you'll have similar decisions/problems to address, and the earlier you make those decisions could save some headaches or extra work down the road. First and foremost is making a decision on the engine management wiring/harness and finding out what you eventually will end up with. I suspect you'll have more options and info available for the 5.0 than I did with my project, but you need to know what is required for the computer (unmodified oem or reprogrammed) so you can address items like egr valves, o2 sensors and therefore exhaust, etc. while they are more easily accesible. I'm guessing you're also going to be dealing with adapting the plumbing on a metric engine to fit sae/American sizes...not a big deal, but more time and money involved. Pure Choice Motorsports in Lake Havasu (www.purechoicemotorsports.com) has been invaluable to me suppying adapter fittings for everything I've needed except A/C compressor fittings. Ford likes to use the springlock fittings on lots of stuff as well..fuel, A/C. (www.coldhose.com has springlock A/C adapters )
Borgeson makes the box to convert to PS. http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catal..._Customline_Mainline-orderby_0-p-1-c-117.html
Try using the search icon in the upper left it should bring up the old thread with it's new link number,when they did the forum upgrade all the old link numbers changed with it.
I could be backwards on this but I have it saved at work. You have to shorten the Passenger side tube 3" then use a driver side axle which is the correct new length.
Hey Texas The motor I have has the air density set up but, I'm changing that. I got an 89 harness and a maf sensor also I'm going to get an a9p ecm this weekend. It would be killer to have a/c but i have no clue how to go about doing that. The motor I got came with all the accessories so i have an a/c compressor but nothing else I'm not gonna push it, I'll save that for another time. Jay-the borgeson looks good but pricey, I wouldn't mind trying to save some $ putting in the jeep box. Jeff thank you. A.p. so after cutting the tube I need 2 driver side axles?
There are several videos on narrowing a 7.5 Ranger rear here the same procedure applies to the 8.8,watch this one first then go to the sidebar for the rest.
Jeff thanks.. I am glad I joined the hamb, it's been invaluable to me so far. I am more confident I can handle doing this job with all the knowledge here. thanks to everyone
I just dropped a 5.0/T5 in my 55 Fairlane last weekend. Lots of good info on this site. Redoing the suspension is a relatively easy job if you have a little patience. Some may disagree but this certainly made the job very easy: The trans mount Crossmember Unbolts but there is another crossmember just behind it. It makes******* installation a nightmare. Cut it out and then fab a sturdy bolt in method for it. Then you can install the eng/tranny together. I also went with disks and PS.
deeppurple52 cut the cross member behind the trans mount?. I found a set of 73 mustang disc brake spindles.. are these the same as Granada? they look similar
Yes Yes, the trans mount Unbolts. I cut out the crossmember behind the trans mount. It makes everything much easier. When you have everything installed, bolt the crossmember back in... Very simple and it will save you a lot of headaches. This allowed me to bolt on my T5, set the hydraulic throw out bearing and then install it as a unit. Don't know about the spindles.
I just built a simple cross member that used the factory holes. Is there a difference between the 6 cyl cars and the V8 cars when it comes to the cross members? I****ume the piece you are talking about cutting out is right behind the crossmember in my pic below?
We flipped the stock transmission crossmember over on mine. It requires that you bend the ears a little to fit where it mounts to the frame and then you have to drill a new mounting hole (we used one of the stock mounting holes). We also used one of the stock transmission mount holes and then had to drill a new hole for the other. Worked well.
dos that's a great idea, is that an aod trans? with a stock trans mount? purple thank you for the info I will be cutting the cross member out
Yup - AOD with stock trans mount. There were originally three mounting tabs on each frame rail. We cut the one off the top (now at the bottom of the frame rail) and just used the front and back holes on each side. We have over 1000 miles on it now and no issues. The transmission mount sits inside the cross member.
it might be a while, I don't want to dismantle her before dream cruise. I think its going to take most of the winter, so I'm gathering parts and knowledge this summer
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