Can someone walk me through the steps to put oil into my 1954 Chevy Bel Air drive line? Or point me to a post (that contains steps that you would recommend) that covers the steps? Need to know what oil to use, how much, and how to actually get the oil into the drive line. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!!! Background on what's been done so far if anyone needs it: The engine and transmission were previously removed. Oil was removed from both, they both got repainted, I replaced several seals on the engine, and they got reinstalled into the car. I previously dropped the drive line down and let the old oil flow out of the drive line. There may still be a small amount of old oil left in the drive line but if there is I don't plan to remove it. I just want to fill it up with new oil and be done. At this point the transmission is back in and has oil in it. The engine runs and prior to connecting the drive line I could see the transmission linkage spinning. At this point I've reconnected the drive line after following the steps in other posts on how to do it. All I need to do is put oil back in the drive line and it should be good to go. For reference only, these are the steps I followed on how to connect the drive line: The following procedure should be followed in making this adjustment: Remove universal joint ball from torque tub. Wash the universal ball thoroughly in cleaning solvent, then inspect it for roughness. If ball is rough, smooth up with fine emery paper or if deeply scored, replace it. Using four new universal ball collar shims as a starting point, install universal ball and collar. Tighten the four attaching bolts to 8-12 ft. lbs. torque. NOTE: Do not install ball joint collar oil seal (cork) at this time. With attaching bolts tight, place both hands on the universal ball housing ***embly at the end of the housing. If the ***embly can be moved and is a snug fit, the torque ball is properly adjusted. NOTE: If the ball housing ***embly cannot be moved by hand or is too loose, remove the ball collar attaching bolts and remove shims to tighten or add shims to loosen until proper adjustment is secured. Remove universal ball housing. Install new gaskets at the back of the retaining collar and the back of the ball housing. Hang the shims over the ball housing until ready to install the U-joint.
The differential and torque tube? It aught to have a plug somewhere. Take the plug out and fill it up with gear oil.
You fill the rear axle with a fill plug on the back cover as I recall. NO place to put oil into the torque tube ,the ujoint will get lubed from the trans supply.
Manual trans? There will be a pipe plug at the bottom of the trans for draining oil, another pipe plug 1/3 to 1/2 way up the side for filling. Remove fill plug, stick your finger in. If you touch oil put the plug back, you are done. If not pour gear oil in until it runs out. Rear diff, same deal. Find the fill plug, it may be on the back or on the side. Stick your finger in, if you don't touch oil, fill it up. In your case you know it is MT. Trans takes 1.5 pints hypoid 80, rear axle 3lbs hypoid 80 (winter) hypoid 90 (summer). Today you will use a multigrade like 75/90 Fill plug tip. If it has a square head you may not be able to get it out without rounding it off, if you use an open end wrench. Instead, use a socket or extension turned around backwards. Now you need to fit your ratchet on, so use an 8 point or 12 point socket turned backwards. If you do not have an 8 point or 12 point socket and don't want to buy one, you can use a big allen wrench in a 6 point socket. The same trick works on other square heads like Bendix brake adjusters. Use a wrap of teflon plumber's tape when you put the plug back in, it will seal easy and come out easy next time you need to check the oil.
Thanks everyone. Hey Rusty, it's a powerglide automatic transmission. Let me know if that changes your answer. I was a little surprised by your instructions on how to fill the powerglide automatic transmission. I thought I was supposed to fill it through the dip stick and just keep checking the transmission fluid level with the dip stick until it showed full. Your instructions involve removing a plug on the transmission to check the oil which is a surprise to me. In any case, I've already filled the powerglide automatic transmission with Dexron (what Shucks told me to use) and that step doesn't need to be done at this point. Let me know if you think there is some reason I would need to drain all the oil out of the transmission and start over again. As for the instructions on how to fill the rear differential, great instructions. Also, great trick on how to remove the plug. I'll try your trick. You recommended I fill the rear differential with Multigrade 75W90 gear oil. I'll follow your instructions on which oil to use. I was able to find other sites suggesting something similar. For reference only, I found a few other threads on the topic of which ddd to use. For anyone that finds this thread later, see URLs below. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-for-my-trans-and-9-rear.782422/#post-8695169
I looked online and located the 54 manual which states that the rear end calls for 3.5 pints of SAE 90 (see link below). Closest thing at the auto parts store was 75W90 and 80/90 gear oil. Apparently 75W90 is synthetic and it costs more. Also told it's more thin vs. 80/90. 80/90 is dirt cheap. I went with 80/90 because I knew I wouldn't put that many miles on the oil and I knew at some point soon I would pull the rear end off, and do the job all over again the right way. See: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/5429.htm Also see: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/370.cfm I did have a fill hole on top of the rear axel and a plug in the back of the differential. In my case, I was able to take the plug off with a box wrench no problem. I put the box wrench over the plug and gave the side of the box wrench a solid tap with a hammer to loosen and after that it came right off. I think the right way/better way to remove the old oil is to remove the rear diff plate. That would allow 100% of the oil to drain out. Probably best to let it sit overnight to let all the sludge drain out. I did it the cheater way. I used a huge syringe with a hose attached to pull out the old oil. Using this method I was only able to get 90% of the old oil out. The oil looked like tar. Nasty. Once I got the old oil out I actually filled the rear through the drain plug in the back using the syringe trick. The drain plug is half way up from the bottom of the diff so you can fill the diff with 3.5 quarts of new oil through the drain plug. It filled right up so with 3.5 quarts the oil level was level with the drain plug. Closed the drain plug, I added another .25 quarts (to account for spillage) through the fill hole on top of the axel, and I was done. I'm in the process of putting the car back on the road so my main goal is just to get it drivable. Over the winter I will pull the back end, clean off 50+ years of built up road gunk on the axel, paint the entire rear end in POR15 black, remove the diff cover, let 100% of the oil drain out, put the diff cover back on (told ATV black sealant works well), refill with 75W90, and be done. But that project can wait for now. Thanks for all the help everyone. Hamb is still my favorite forum on the web. Great people. Priceless help.
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