Driveline & rear end question

I have a 1953 Chevy Bel Air 2 door that I am in the process of bagging with the Gambino 4 link kit.

My question is, do I need to change the stock driveline and rear end?

It has the tube style drive line.

Thanks


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Yes.
there are plenty of threads on that topic.. search it

 

Thank you but I did search and could not find an answer as to exactly why.


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is the engine and trans stock?
you can weld the brackets to the torque tube rear end, but if i was going to add airbags so the rearend dropped and raised, i would want u joints on my vehicle, but thats just preference i guess
are you changing anything else or just gambino rear end kit?

 

Yeah engine and trans are stock and run great so I don't want to change it.




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I am also doing the front.


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What the issues or the problems with running the stock torque tube rear end?


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Short links have a smaller radius arc of travel IMO. Plus you only have one u-joint taking all the angle of a suspension that is significantly lower than stock. The axle will be significantly forward in the wheel well and the u-joint will probably have vibration with the suspension almost aired out. From what I've been taught two joints cancel the vibration of each other.

One thing that is for sure is that you can give it a whirl and let us know the results. It's worth a shot if your setup works well now

 

You will experience suspension bind at a very small range of travel. If and when you reach that travel, going down the road, you will likely tear a link mount off of the frame or axle, or break a link.

This is because the links and the torque tube have radically different lengths.

The torque tube is over four feet long, and swings that arc.

The links in the Gambino kit are about 19" long, swinging that arc.

Those two arcs are not even close to each other.

You will reach the bind point well before you get the car lowered much past stock height, much less lay frame, defeating the entire purpose of this suspension setup.

You have no choice but to replace the transmission and rear axle, installing an open, two joint driveshaft in the process.

Not to be a jerk, but you need to research something this extensive, very thoroughly before committing to it.

Also, if you want to lay frame, you will need to completely remove and recreate your rear wheel wells, change gas tanks, and make a new driveshaft tunnel.

 

The good news is that you can keep the engine.

 

The stock power glide has to be replaced as well?


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Those torque tube drivelines are somewhat known for vibration even when the cars were 100% stock. I wouldn't dream of modding one. I'd toss it if this car is intended as a driver.

Dad owned a new '53 BelAir, and traded for a new '56. I'll bet the open driveline was nearly as much advantage to the car as the V8 engine was over the six.

 

Yes. It has to go.

You have two choices of transmission to chose from, manual or automatic.

For an automatic, I prefer the 700R4. For the manual, the S10 T5, with the 3.76 gear set. Both will require an adapter.

With the T5, you can keep the stock clutch setup, with a replaced disc.

In either case, a rear axle with a 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 ratio, depending on exact tire size, and on if the engine is modified, or not. Either of those can come from an S10 (4x4, in this case). The width is good, and it has the same 5-on-4-3/4" bolt pattern as stock.

 

This ****s, I just spend 1K on a new 2 speed automatic Powerglide.

 

Well, you have some decisions to make.

 

Well I might as well put a mustang II front end on it and a V8.

 

You might be able to sell of the entire powertrain to raise funds. I wold just do the transmission and axle.

Either either either way, if all the way down is what you want, you cannot get it easily, even with bags, with the stock front suspension, only the MII aftermarket stuff, and a whole lot of fabrication in the trunk:

0b5GTEh4jdJKCPlTM8j5Pd_S95Hz_ojo5jdvta9Peak,Yn9Etlqo6nunRyaJc6DZwOqRDNS0-srARBMfElWZZeU by gimpyshotrods posted May 26, 2014 at 10:34 PM

IMG-20110928-00231 by gimpyshotrods posted May 26, 2014 at 10:41 PM

 

I'm not worried about the fab work or anything, I'm just trying to keep componaints as stock as possible.

 

So a 700R4 will bolt up to the 236 straight six I have in the car?

 

I think you could have a 216 or 235 if it is original. If early 235 you will need an adapter. If the eng was replaced with a 54 style you won't need an adapter. Look in front of the starter for a block casting number to see what eng you have.

 

Not at All!
That's way more work.

Unless you just gotta lay frame, and then just go butcher the thing.

The ideas of "bagging" and "keeping stock components" are mutually exclusive.
Ya can't have both.

 

Nope, the inline-6 did not get the bellhousing pattern that matches the one on the 700R4, until after 1962. You will need an adapter to attach the 700R4 to the engine.

You will need an adapter to attach a T5 to the bellhousing (my preferred route).

If laying frame is not where you want to go, then there is no point to the Gambino kit.

You can just get a pair of blocks for the rear, and cut the coils in the front, and call it done.

 

wow i missed alot since i last checked this psot..
yea what they said?^^^

 

Here's the adapter for the automatic:
http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/~/product/category=412400&id=1396439

 

What shifter and shift linkage, I do not want to put a floor shifter in.

 

That's all up to your fabrication skills, or wallet. Limeworks makes a trick one.

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For a linkage setup?


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The whole column shifter, with correct detents and lockout for the transmission, to go on the existing column.

It is unlikely you will get a linkage to attach to the stock shifter.

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http://limeworksspeedshop.theshoppad.com/#/

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I can't seem to find anything for Limericks on the web.


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