Hi HAMBers Let me start by saying that I am new to this world of restoration. I have always enjoyed working on cars, doing the odd jobs and what not, getting my hands dirty. I have never attempted anything like I have planned for this build, essentially a complete rebuild. If some of these questions are a bit elementary for you guys let me apologize in advance, I am trying to learn as much as possible from all of the amazing knowledge you guys spread on this site. So I got my hands on a 1956 F100. I was looking for something a bit more simple to try my hand at and I thought this would be a great place to start. The truck has some minor rust areas (some areas in the cab floor, running boards, cab corners). It came with a 292 (as I was told, I need to verify), 4 speed (not sure of the ******), rebuilt drum brakes with new lines, and all else stock. I am looking for something to be able to drive around in safely/comfortably, one day becoming my daily driver. I am not hell bent on keeping everything original as I am one to concede to modern day comforts. So to my question.... I have been told time and time again that planning out a job it step one... ("what do I want to do with the truck?"). Here lies the problem for me, as I have some ideas of how I envision my dream truck I could really use some of your advice based on your own experiences because I lack just that. I have looked hour after hour through pages of forums, blogs, magazine site tech articles, etc... to get a general idea but I am looking for some tried and tested experience. Here is what I am thinking.... Leave the 292 (at least for now). It will need some TLC possibly some rebuilding, I see that as a challenge and a great learning experience. I have read that they are great engines, and ***ume that they will provide a strong enough power plant to haul me down a California freeway.... Which lead me to the rear end. I can't wait to change it out so I can go faster then 45 MPH (a pure guess, speedo doesn't work). I have been hearing some great things about the Explorer rear end with the disc brakes, easy install. Sounds like the majority utilizes the later model F100 9". I ***ume to eventually do a Mustang II IFS up front when there is a bit more funds at hand. I ***ume that should be something to take into consideration when choosing the rear end. I would also like to add air ride, I know some of you want to kill me for that but I just love the look. -Pro/Con Explorer rear end w/disc brakes vs Ford 9"? Is the Ford 9" as bolt in as everyone touts online? I'm looking to stay away from major fabrication. - How does the rear end affect the front end? Just the bolt pattern? - What to take into account regarding rear/front end if I add air ride? Is there a way to install air bags without loosing half the bed? - As far as drive train, anything to consider if I want to change out the engine to a 351 at a later time? Please any advice would be greatly appreciated! I wanted to run my ideas across some of you experts before diving in and realizing I made a (expensive) mistake. If you don't mind tell me what you are running and how you like it. To all who have read thanks and I look forward to hearing what you got to say. Thanks a million
As you posted you are still in the planning stages, that's good, think long and carefull about what you want to have when you are done. That being said, you state that you are new to this, what you are wanting to do is alot of work, maybe a better choice would be to buy someone elses project that has stalled. Or maybe get a running driving truck that you can change to suit yourself. If the above is something you dont want to do, and you want to go ahead then, then dont spend cash to do something and then change later. You mentioned rebuilding the Y block and then swaping to another engine later. I would guess you were going to go through the front end and then change to IFS as well? The rear end change would be a good upgrade, I would go with a 9 inch, and there is nothing wrong with drum brakes, as long as they are in good working order. I would drop the stock front axle, and run the rear springs under the rear axle, this may require a small C notch and should keep the axle out of the bed. Air bags aren't needed if you want to keep the bed floor origonal. If you want it low, low the bed floor gets compromised. I would keep as much of the origonal parts/components that the truck came with, and make them work...JMO You picked a great piece of raw material for your fist ride, early trucks regaurdless of make, make great rods and drivers...good luck.
I'm working on my 53 F100 right now getting ready to UNDO the axle flip that was started by the PO. With the springs below the rear axle (ford 9, 3" tube), there is about 3/4" travel before the frame hits the axle, so a significant c notch is required. Also, right now the top of my 9" is about 1.5" from hitting the bed wood, so that's something else to watch. My advice is this: get ahold of Midfifty in AZ and go with their down and forward springs all the way around. This will also center the front wheel. Or just rebuild the stock front end with a drop axle. Or both for really low! Nostalgia Sid can drop your straight axle or sell you one off the shelf. Raise the spring hanger on the back end to drop it more if needed. You bought an old truck, embrace it. If your dead set on IFS, get ahold of Elpolako here on the hamb or at his business, Industrial Ch***is. He has been retooling his Dodge Dakota front swaps for F100s again. I don't think he has his 53-56 kits done yet, but a phone call will tell you more. Dodge Dakota or Jag IFS is the only way to go on these trucks. But like I said above, I much prefer the straight axle.
Thanks for the response. I guess I didn't mention that the truck is running and these are projects that I plan on doing over time as I drive the truck. That's why I was wanting to start with rear end, so I could get more use out of it. Then on to the front suspension... etc. Does a ford 9" require the rear fenders to be extended? Thanks for the advice regarding just using a drop axel and dropping the rear, I have thought about that. Might be a simpler/cost effective option, at least for now.
Bagging the rear without cutting the bed is more than likely not going to happen. I have heard of a few people relocating their hangars and shackles on the rear to get it lower in the back but I haven't tried it yet. If you are considering going with a 351 in the future I applaud you ! Great pick and I would back it up with a aod or t5 trans for that real highway cruiser. I have a 61 f100 with a 302 and aod trans with a 9 in rear end with 3.73s. It's still in the process so as soon as I get it down the highway I will let you know how it cruises on the freeway. Congrats on the new ride ! Any pics ? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
One of the reasons why I was thinking about the air ride in the first place was because it seemed to create a way to lower the truck but still keep the structural integrity. Something that while I was doing my research was lost while utilizing such methods as mono leaf springs (or just striping every other leaf for that matter). I have read that repositioning the rear axel above the spring could cause some issues but I wasn't able to get a good read on the severity. What rear end would you suggest using and how would you suggest lowering the rear if you're using the drop axel up front? I have read a lot of great things about Sid's drop axel. Good to know about the mid fifty set up, I have used them a few times for other parts, good people. Thanks for the advice
There's a couple of ways to lower the rear to match a front dropped axle. 1) lowering spring. This is something like Midfifty's but lots of people probably have them (posies and others). These will probably give you a little better ride too because of the tapered ends with slider ****ons. The downfall is that it's hard to know exactly how much drop you are going to get when everything settles. 2). Remove some leafs. Trial and error. Just remember, this changes payload capacity too. 3) move the rear spring hangers up on the frame. Along these same line, I see Midfifty also has an adjustable rear spring hanger that would give you some room to dial it in exactly. 4) Flip the axle above the springs. See my above post for issues. Major drop. A true 4 inches on a 3" axle tube. 5) Ditch the leaves and fab up some adjustable coilovers and 4 link (boo for this one, again embrace the old truck soul!!!) I know I sound like I work for Midfifty. I swear I don't, but they are a great resource. In their catalog, they have a really nice chart that lays out all the various lowering methods and about how much drop each will produce for both front and rear. Their catalog is available in PDF on their website if you don't have one. Remember, you can employ multiple methods together to achieve what you want. As far as a 9" requiring wider fenders, that depends on what width 9" you get. There are tons and tons of widths from the factory. Many shops also can shorten them to the desired width and respline the axles (31 spline that is. Some 28 spline axles taper and cannot be shortened). You can also just buy a new and complete setup if you want from places like Strange Engineering, Mosier, Currie, etc. FWIW, my truck has a 302 and AOD to a 9" with 3.50 gears and 650-16 tires. Love the motor and trans. Ideally, I would prefer 3.70 ratio with the AOD and that tall of a tire. Someday.
Great Information cowboy, thank you very much. I have bought a number of parts from mid fifty but never thought of them for lowering my truck. You sound like you have a nice set up on your truck. 61daily, thanks for reaffirming my belief that in order to slam the truck your going to need half the bed height. Good luck with your maiden voyage, let me know how it goes. If I am planning on changing out the engine/ transmission one day down the road is there anything to keep in mind regarding the front/rear suspension today? Anything I should keep in mind regarding the splines? If there is a difference would it mean a new drive shaft, thus compromising compatibility with my transmission? Once again my apologies for the elementary questions. I am just trying to wrap my head around all this as a total project. Thanks again for all your help
As far as splines is concerned if you do decide to go with another motor and trans you will need a new driveshaft made. I had mine done by a shop in Ventura CA. Most shops will know what slip yoke you will need to match your transmission. On the other end of the driveshaft you can just measure your yoke at the rear end and get it to match your original rear end. Or measure the old driveshaft which also helps. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
http://www.coastdriveline.com/MeasureShaft.htm that's the shop that made mine. Great service it was done in 1 day ! I used example b to measure it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
61daily, that's some great info! I know I will be doing that switch sometime in the future and I will be sure to keep coast driveline saved to look them up. Thanks for the heads up.
Sorry for the delay, I have attached a pic of what I am currently working on. I have decided (for now) to go with a ford 9" rear with the mid fifty spring that will lower the rear about 3". I will have to decide to go with the mid fifty spring for the front for around $600 or bite the bullet and go strait for IFS. Either way it is my understanding I will need to lower the truck evenly as to avoid messing with the drive shaft angle. As for the 272/292 that is in there I will keep it running for now. From my research there is nothing wrong with those old Y-Blocks. The parts seem cheap and the engine sounds reliable. I will probably need to do a rebuild one day but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. My carb recently started leaking all over the place so I'll have to fin a replacement, but that's for another post. Thanks for all your help guys and I appreciate all your words of wisdom.
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