Side work funded 28-29 RPU build.

I'm sure I'll find a use for them. They seemed like such a good fabrication tool. Maybe I'll buy the reamer and hog them out a touch.

 

... I gotta ask a 'did you plug it in' type question, sorry, but did you flip them around and try them both ways? The pic looks suspiciously similar to what I got when I put one on backwards.

That said, a 7º taper reamer is a good investment, I'd sure like to have one in my shop.

 

Haha. Sure did. The damn thing even said it in the Q and A section a and clearly didn't read that. Couple to many beers and ordering parts on the 4th!!


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Coworker had this gen II small block in her basement. This will likely end up in the back if my truck soon.


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No large gains today, got my wishbones prepped and angled for the front end, de arched some springs for the front and got my 9" sat under the ass end.

What's a good rule of thumb for transverse leaf rear spring axle to frame clearance? I'm at 3" now with a 700-16 in the back and 8" of ground clearance and the frame level. I'm used to building suspension setups with 15-30" of wheel travel and not sure 3" is enough.


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Thanks to General gow here on the forum I traded off some parts for the rusty remains of a slant window 4 door sedan. First off he's a damn nice guy with a very sweet garage/ shop setup. Got the front of the poor cowl remains cut slightly and hammer messaged the door hinge remains to mock up the cowl. Thinking I'll leave the slant window post as it is in decent shape and looks good actually and chop the doors above the belt line leaving room to cleanly message the upper lip. Then do a roadster pickup rear section like dons hot rods on here with a door skin split in half. Sort of flat in the back like the 28-29 rpu with a 30-31 door and cowl instead. Goal here is to build something cool and old that doesn't look like some hacked up piece of shit. I guess that's a lot of people's goals initially. I'll have to look to the HAMB for the official, WTF where you thinking!!!!! .


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Honestly, I think I kinna like the window frames on the doors. You could end up with something like a RPU/Sport Coupe look that I don't think I've seen before. So I'd say leave them on for a while and see if the idea grows on you.

 

I bought those shock taper bungs as well, thinking the same thing. I was disappointed when they did not seat. I first rough cut them with a hack saw, then faced them in my lathe (started facing on the larger diameter side) and took about half of the thickness away. They work great now. Not ideal considering the time I have in them, but better than throwing them out. Good luck.

 

IThat reminds me, I have a set of those Speedway "Weld-On Shock Eye For Tie-Rod Shocks, Triangular" in the shop and they do seat the rod ends and give full access to the cotter pin hole through the castle nut.

 

Interesting point and I'd never thought of that. The top if the doors are the part that is actually in good shape and don't need repair. My thought was to relocate the hinges as they need some love anyways. If I leave them I'll chop them at least as they are a bit tall. The slant window posts actually look pretty sweet laid back. I beat the drivers side ones free last night and the passenger side was subject to some torch love. I'm going to fit the sub rails and run them back to the Z tonight. Then figure the cowl location a little better as there was only a small portion of the drivers side cowl foot remaining. Lots of cutting, welding and grinding till bitchin as I believe general gow once said.


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Even contemplated doing a sort of sedan truck like this one, but am not subtler if there is enough decent metal for the rear section and radius rear quarters.


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I know where there's what I think is a fordor rear panel in Western MA on CL.

Remember, if you chop the windshield and doors, you will need to lengthen the tops of the window frames OR pull the window and door front post back and re angle the hinge.

 

I should be able to make two decent fronts out of the 3 fronts and 1 rear I have. Drug home the bead roller tonight and will test fire it Wednesday on a chevelle I'm working on. I'll let you know if I need them.


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A
Start of a rear quarter. I'm guessing that if I use a portion of the B post as the rear section of the RPU cab I should probably remove all of the wood before welding to it? Or weld and cool intermittently? It will have the front portion of the old rear door sitting flush with the back if the front door same as the slant window.

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header repaired to keep the tops of the posts stable.



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Mock up with my 56'F100 box and small golf cart steering wheel.


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Unless you like the smell of woodsmoke, I'd remove the wood. Looking good though, you're not far off from looking like a vehicle!

 

No shit. They are damn flimsy without the wood. I'll have to either box them or run box tube inside. Thoughts on my roadster door idea? Not sure what id do with the front of the window post. Just had the idea and banged this angle over my old stainless work bench.


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Either make new wood or go with box tube like @general gow is doing that on his build right now.

That window piece looks nice, but didn't those doors have rolly windows?

 

Yup. Seeing if it's possible to make them roadster doors and match it on the back behind the doors and look alright.


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You've got a bead roller doncha?

You can probably make panels to match and do a flat back easy.

 

Just tested what you said general gow. Added the piece to the front of the rear pickup cab section. And yes I have a bead roller that I just opened today. The Woodward fab unit deffinetly isn't as nice as the more expensive pro tools version I used in the past.
If I chop the door frames off ill do the same to the tops of the doors.
Used the old B pillar bottom brace to locate my cowl on the sub frame. Once everything is mocked up and working I'll rebuild the toasted cowl feet and repair the sub rail. Then tacked in the B pillars and braced them until I can finish the rear section of the cab. It's sort of "stock floor" body drop like mini truck guys do I guess. Sub frame is intact ontop of the frame.
Going to run tape lines across the door frames tonight to see what it would look like leaving the front portion of the window frame on the door and tapering it to nothing at the top. This way my top hinge is intact.


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Vroom vroom. ATTACH=full]2669260[/ATTACH]


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You need to sit "inside" making motor noise and shifting gears.
Not sure which way on doors. Are you going to "stare" at it a few and see which way to go?
Earl

 

Going to carry this rolled edge into the inside all the way down. Then I can hide some 3/4 or 1" square for some structure.
The back section will be like the 28/29 RPU cab only with 31' door skins.


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