COE '47 Loadmaster build thread

OK, so I will try to get this build up to date. I let it slip off the radar when the site when down. Here is the link to the original build thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/posts/10362633/ So now to bring things up to speed. If you read the above post you see I,m working in China. From the first trip to the last trip I purchased a 2003 1500 Silverado for a donor. I will warn you, if your looking for a traditional build this is not it.

The truck turned out to be in great shape but was advertised poorly (e-bay) and no one bid on it. I had my brother-in-law (also a car guy) check it out as it was local. Made a low ball offer and picked it up for 5K. 146K miles with a 4.8L and auto trans, no damage, clear ***le and it ran out very well. I also purchased a 2 post lift which I installed on my first days back in April of this year.


And yes, a lift will fit into a 8' garage. So with the lift I removed the body from the Silverado.

More later, Rob

 

Welcome and will be watching .

 

starts very interesting !!! ... i will be watching

yeah, most of the time its just better (and cheaper) to sacrifice a running donor
building (buying) all the little things from scratch will usually nickel & dime you to death

 

Hey Rob ,I looked through your albums. Did you get that sweat front bumper from that stock ch***is of the coe ? If not is it for sale ?

 

Unfortunately not, after a full day in the sun and looking at a 16 hour drive back to SC. I was give out and left it. So after separating the body and ch***is I needed to pull the engine/trans out and prep it for mid mount.

Because it will be under the rear of the cab I flipped the intake 180 degrees and installed a LS-1 pan (ground clearance)


I also built a cart for the engine/trans so I could get an idea of the required mods to the back of the cab.


Rob

 

So with the engine at the proper height and angle and the cab also set up I started cutting the cab.


With the cab cut up I moved the engine out of the way and set the general location of the cab on the ch***is. Before doing this I removed the springs in the front and disconnected the rear hangers and installed spacers in their place to set the final ride height.


Cab going on. I used 2 plum bobs to set the center line and eye balled the forward position based on the tire in the fender opening. Don't worry about the ****py welds on the mounting, it's only temporary. Later every thing will be blown apart to clean and paint the ch***is and the same with the drive train. The body will stay as it is on the outside for the time being, I hate body and paint work as much as hate anyone else working on my stuff.


Rob

 

On the engine I pulled the alternator/PS mount for clearance. Later I will modify that mount to remove the alternator part. I will build a mount for the alternator mount located where the AC compressor is now. I also removed the water neck from the water pump cut it up and welded it at 90 degrees for clearance.


Rob

 

Very, very interesting!

 

Cool.

Looks like a good plan and going together well. Steering (always an issue) will be simple. With the manifold backwards, you can need to run a pipe up the back and put a scoop on your roof like the import guys...LOL!

 

Yea, steering was one of the reasons I picked this as a donor, it lines up correct left to right but may be a little on the low side but a couple of u-joints should do the trick.

After a temporary mounting of the cab I rolled the engine/trans back into location, this required lifting the rear of the frame a little (compared to say....erecting a skys****er) man this lift is a lifesaver.

Rob

 

With the engine in its general location I needed to make a mount set-up. I used the original mounts, some 2X2 tubing and some flat plates to bolt to the outside of the frame. If the engine ever needs to be removed it will come out the bottom. I also moved the engine 1 inch to the p***engers side to center the trans in the carrier bearing support cross member. I will build a drop out ****** mount to this cross member. This also will allow me to use just the rear drive shaft in its original length. I can also reuse the donor fuel tank and muffler on back for exhaust.







Rob

 

As I was out about of time on my home trip I went ahead and clamped a few pieces on sheet metal on to get a look at where thing where at, I even sanded a bit on the hood trying to get a better look at the lettering. Looks like Bar Js Ranch. I brought the wiring harness back with me to China (the girl at customs thought it looked like a bag of snakes and had a fit, LOL) so I could do the mods in my spare time.



Rob

 

Rob
she is looking great !
i really like the mid-engine setup
so you made the engine subframe to drop out the bottom if major work is needed ?!?
very clever

 

Progress on the wiring: I stripped all the unneeded circuits from the engine harness and pulled all the remaining wires back to the main ECM connectors. With the intake flipped the original wiring layout would not work. I'm not sure at this point where I will mount the electronics but may build an enclosure on the right side or the frame. I will have the computer reprogrammed when I return and then adapt it the body harness (still to be made).

Rob

 

Was the ECM inside the cab on the donor vehicle? Seems like it should be to be waterproof. If I ever get mine back together, it will be under or behind the seats.

 

Originally it was in the engine compartment in front of the drivers front fender. I'm sure it saw some water from time to time. They are sealed very well. They do seem to build up a little heat, so if I do put it in an enclosure I will need to vent it. I will also need space for a TAC module, control circuit for the shifter, relay center and fuse center. The truck will basically need a one off wiring harness. I think I'm like most builders in that the challenges of a build are half of the fun of owning this old stuff.
Rob

 

Man, I wish I knew what you've forgotten when it comes to fabrication.

That is amazing.

 

Well thank you very much 41, if I could give any advice to fellow builders it would be this: Make a plan, stick to it and do everything you can to learn new skills. A smartest man I ever met, my Dad, gave me this advice when I was 17 and sitting on my *** after High School. Do those things, and you achieve your goals, whatever they may be. He was 100% right.
By the way, 41 I also have a '46 1/2 ton I built from the ground up so if I can help with any questions you may have on your '41 just ask.
Rob

 

OK so I'm back in the states for good and have restarted on the build. I changed the mounting for the cab, raised it 1 inch to get some needed tire clearance. Just for kicks I removed the spring set up tube and lowered it to the bump stop. I also picked a used seat from a 2000 1/2 ton Chevy and am building a tilt forward mounting frame for it and working on the transmission mount. Drive shaft is in.
Rob

 

Been working on the mount for the seats. Mounted the '03 bad back on, I did this just to gain a little more room in the shop but it gives you a little idea of how much space the extended cab takes up.
Rob

 

I like the split bench! Looks like it belongs there.

 

OK, a little progress to report: I remade the trans mount (no picture yet), finished the seat mount, cut the access hole under the seat and started work on the gas pedal.

 

I'm not up to date on electronics engine controls, is the black thing your TPS or what ever you call the drive by wire accelerator pedal?

 

Yup. looks like the same animal I'm using, cept I have the modern pedal in the cab, I like your setup much better! Hide the modern, show the old school. Nice!

 

I'm bad tonite, I didn't put the last 2 pictures together in my mind to realize it is hooked to the pedal already. We used to call that "sanitary", nice way of doing it!

 

Hey Steve, make that mouse run faster .LOL

 

The squeaking in there is driving me crazy, others get to hear voices, I get squeaking, Gheesh!

 

OK, some updates. Test fit a column a friend gave me. I think it's from a Bronco or early Ford truck, it's got a 14" wheel and works well for the seat clearance issue. 90% finished on the gas pedal mod. Test fit the master cylinder and booster from the donor. It is real close to the prop rod and hood brace but it will work. I will need to come up with some sort of a lever for the brake pedal. You can see from the fire wall I will need to rotate the rack and shorten the column for the steering hook up.
Rob

 

Made some more progress on the 90 degree MS mount.



Rob

 

I'd look for a much shorter steering column, upper U-joint should be up inside the cab with the intermediate shaft vertical (in a side view)