Hi, I am wondering , instead of buying all these voltage reducers or running both gen and a alt, or something of that nature,... why not run 2 separate power wires from the alternator.one too the 12v fuse block and the other too a 6 volt external voltage ( stock style ) regulator ,then too a power distribution block which then go's to the fuses for the 6v accessories? Both setups will be ran into the same fuse block , or seperate fuse blocks...From the info I gathered those regulators take in more then 6 volts from a generator( I think there output is around 10-12v and 45amps anyways ) and regulate it to 6v. That seems a little safer ? I've never done this type of conversion before but I do have a little wiring skills and think this might be a safer way to send the proper amount of amps and volts where they need to go without worrying about the reducers overheating or power spikes, etc. does anyone have any suggestions on this? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sounds like an overcomplicated fix to a non-problem. Except for the heater fan and maybe elec wipers, most of the rest is easy bulb replacement or use the small electronic voltage reducers for gages. The fan can use the heavy duty resistor type reducer and same for the wiper motor.
The external 6 volt regulator works by varying the field current to the generator, so what you are thinking of wont work. Your idea of having a separate 6 volt supply for your 6volt accessories is the way to go. I made up a 12-6volt electronic regulator using an LM7806 (goolgle that number for a circuit diagram), it is good for about 5 amps, and I mounted it under the dashboard. I then ran a separately fused 6volt supply point from there. Any voltage reducer or regulator will still get warm as it has to dissipate heat somehow.
The voltage reg works by regulating the field strength of the alt or gen. So it won't work. What will work, is to take a center tap off a 12 volt battery. Or use 2 6 volt batteries in series for 12 volts, and wire all the 6v stuff thru the second battery.
I picked this up from a online store called vintage auto garage. It was a little pricey but I want to make sure I take every precaution with the electrical and parts .I hope it will be worth it,...? I found through hours of digging on the internet certain reducers are good for certain parts. So ,....There are 2 double ceramic voltage reducer units with CPU thermal compound (I added arctic silver) and finned aluminum heat sinks for the blower and radio. a regulated and fused gauge cluster voltage reducer that is specifically designed for the gauges that supposed to regulate at 6.7v w/fuse ,and a few extra misc reducers for the horns or whatever else I might need them for. the wiring fabric insulation is falling apart so I picked up a harness by kwik wire on ebay. I went with a internally regulated alternator. I'm holding this will do the trick and get me up to date with safe and working stuff. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I also picked up a Ignitor points conversion kit. Made a huge difference in space, I'm a bit concerned about how it will run though. I will keep everyone posted. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
A friend in highschool did this! Had a chevy SB in a 48 ford pickup with a 12v battery. Just pocked a hole in the battery and stuck a wire in. Seemed to work fine, I always thought it was a funny way to solve a problem.
On the old tar top battery all you had to do was drill a hole and drive a screw into the lead strap in the middle of the battery. On new batteries the lead strap is still there but it is under plastic. You could cut a small hole in the plastic and put in a stud or bolt. You might want to go to the junk yard and cut open an old battery to find exactly where to put it. Or you could leave the car 6 volt, but that would be the easy way lol.
so if i added another 6 volt battery (in series) to my '55, i would basically be giving the starter 12 volts and it would spin the engine faster making starting quicker, yes? that's my goal, the car's stock 6 volt setup turns the engine sooo slow. it is a huge pain in the ass to start the car if it's been sitting for a few weeks or so...
Yep, the 6 volt Chevy starter will spin happily with 12volts, just don,t sit there cranking it for too long in one hit, she will get mighty hot.
Had a 6v VW that was always hard to start and this was the cure for it. They made a kit for the VWs for installing two batteries as it was a common problem with them. There are relays and kits to do the same thing with 12v cars, think the off-road guys do this type of thing.
not the cheapest solution but i dig it, and since i'm runnin' an optima battery (yes, they make a 6 volt), i think i'll just get another one and hide them in the trunk and maybe even hollow out a dead lead/acid 6 volt and put it under the hood for the look. is that lame? thank you all for the good information!
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