Projects Project 29 Phaeton

Uppside Down!

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Welded up..
Haven't hooked up the water cooled torch yet...no pump/cooler.
The torch's so hot I had to use my MIG gloves..

 

Chassis is DONE. Flipped it over twice to finish all the welding....It's still centered, straight & level!
NEXT - Get the table out of here and start bolting on some suspension parts.
T

 

Looking good, man. I'm anxious to see it on the ground with the body,hood,engine installed.

 

First time posting on this thread but man I like what you are doing,these phaetons have always gotten in my eyes. HRP

 

Shameless plug, maybe, but I just finished my Mopar powered '29 Phaeton on Deuce rails last week. It may be good for inspiration,although I don't think you need it.I was at the stage you are about two years ago.

 

Hey man, I was looking through your thread again and saw something I missed before that I have to point out to you. Those rear radius rods you are using are not strong enough for your application. You see, those were designed to be used in conjunction with a torque tube, which took the upward force of the rear end under acceleration. The radius rods you are using were only built strong enough to triangulate the rear end housing to the torque tube. These arms will bend or break when used on their own...trust me.

You have a few ways of fixing this issue that wouldn't be a huge deal at this point in your build
1. A torque arm something like this(built by another HAMBer, not me)
2.triangulate what you already have into a ladder bar type arrangement something like this (built by me). Although in your case, I think the torque arm is a better choice because with #2 you may still be relying too much on the integrity of your radius rods. On the one I built in the picture below, I used '35-'36 rear radius rods, which are far stronger than the pair you have.
3. Start over and make/buy a pair of ladder bars that attach above and below the rear end housing.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but better to hear it now than have them fold up on you down the road. There are a lot of examples of torque arms here on the HAMB if you do a search. I just picked one that was not on a banjo rear.

 

Hi Metalman

Yeah you're right, & I'm purposely holding off on the final design on those.
My plan was always to add a upper torque arm for the twisting motion...
I was debating attaching it to the front of one of the bones or using another joint in the front...
I have a model A arm and another bone split kit...it have to be attached to the top of the pumpkin -
and also be low enough to clear the floor?
I built everything solid so I can stomp on it..this the weakest link...

We're "tub brothers" man steel um anytime.
Your Tub Looks and Sounds awesome!
Watched your video!!

Now I have to go replace the brake lines on my duster, so I can get it out of my driveway & hopefully sell it soon. (Tuned up the engine the other day, ran like a champ...did full brake test before I stomped on it and blew a line...)

Back to work!
Tommy

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Good. I'm glad you already knew about it. I don't like pointing out things like that, but I will in the interest of safety, and I know you are open to suggestions. I would lean toward a torque arm similar to the first pic. I think you can keep it under the floor pretty easily. Mine has a triangulated four link and was a piece of cake.

Thanks for the compliment. It feels good to finally have it on the road. I just got home from driving it to a club meeting about fifty miles away. I've got nearly 300 miles on it now.soon I have to do something about a place to keep it...it can't stay in the shop any more.

- Jim

 

Hi Jim

Well, It's my first "Real Hot Rod" build and that's the good thing about HAMB...
- You can get Help, Ideas, find Parts & Learn pretty much any / everything there is to know about Hot Rods here.
Your Phaeton is a great inspiration!

Tommy

 

Thanks again, Tommy. I'll be watching your build,as it's just my style...home built with ingenuity and old parts. Maybe someday I'll make my wife's dream come true and fly her to Hawaii.....then I can see it in person, haha.

Keep it up, tub brother. I'm impressed with your progress so far.

- Jim

 

It's Flyin'


Frame Table cleaned up / painted , ready for another chassis...Bob?



It's finally on the ground!

I'm Stoked! Right where I wanted it!


Kinda crappy pistures...
I'll try roll it out in the Sun tomorrow... (If it isn't raining?)
T

 

Better pictures...

The front suspension is a little low...
This is where I want it to sit "fully loaded"
option 1 - alter the "lowered" front x-member.
option 2 - "regular" eye front spring.

Option 3 - I'm cutting the front horns off!
I'll see where it ends up with all the weight on it.
...........I really like the horns...easy to weld back on again later...

 

It's looking great Tommy. That frame
Sweep really put it on the ground.

Option#4. - undropped axle?

I'm with you... Get it all together and see what it looks like.


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Is your concern that the axle is too close to the frame, or that the belly is too close to the ground? It's hard to tell how much space is between the axle and frame in the pictures.

I like the frame horns too, and I think if removed, the frame needs tucked in flush with the grill shell to look right.


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I like the frame horns. HRP

 

Height - belly to the ground - is perfect!

The axle is ~2.5 inches from the frame.
That`s where i want it to be when all the weight is on...
If i put the engine in right now the frame would touch the axle.
Frame horns:
Thinking about it, there`s no real reason to cut them off...
I`m going to put a temporary "spacer" betwen the spring and x member...put the engine and ballast to se how much i need to alter the cross member?
May have to move the engine up a touch (put a regular oil pan on it)

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I like the frame horns too!
Made a adjustable spacer -1/2 inch threaded rod + 1 1/2 inch square stock. (2 - 3.5 inches)
It doesn't move much up & down..! sideways a little more. (I'm planning a spring adjuster (2 bolts) in the later modified cross member.
Found that the Axle needs to scoot back 1/8 - 1/4" so the spring doesn't rub against the cross member.

Word of advise to someone (even dumber than me)
Leave some adjustment on the "adjuster screws"

Gonna have to cut them a tad.
T

 

Sounds like switching to a non reversed main leaf will help you. I had to do the same thing for the same reason. Looking good.

 

Looking good!

 

At least you didn't weld the ends on the wishbones yet. That's pretty smart to wait till it's all mocked up. Did you make those weld on ends? Those look really nice.

 

Me Smart?....Mahalo Man!
The weld on ends are made by Cory Taulbert...Really Nice!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wishbone-bungs-for-early-ford-tie-rod-ends.923817/
They're not that rusty when you get them though...(everything rusts here in the "Jungle")...
T

 

I thought I had seen them in the classifieds a while ago, but thought maybe you made your own. I may use those on the next hot rod... Nice clean look.

 

Welded up the rear Bonez.
We'll see how it works out?

 

Engine ended up a tad too low...
So I added some 1 3/4" temporary spacers (uni strut) and the stock oil pan will do the trick.

Adjusted the front spring down +1"

A stock front x member would be perfect ... Oh well.
The rear will come down 3-4 inches...

Getting ready to attach the rear axle...
Started measuring and... all reference points / angles gone with the frame table...
Aligned the frame to THE LINE on the floor / leveled the frame

Now the engine/trans is at 0 deg so i set the rear axle the same.

The drive shaft will be at 3 deg or more at load...+ it is angled sideways...

Time to pack up the garage for the night!

 

The Brackets felt a little skinny so I beefed them up a bit...
Feels better!

 

My "torque arm"...need to by some tubing tomorrow...
I tried to use a model A rear arm...didn't work out.

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Final arm...might put a brace in the bend..?

 

That's coming along nicely. What diameter and alloy are the torque arm? It looks like it may be a large enough diameter to go without a brace. Hard to say from the pictures.


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It's a 1" schedule 40 mild steel...I think it's beefy enough...?
I might just brace it anyhow..?