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Projects Manual or hydraulic clutch?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by AJNapierski, Jul 28, 2014.

  1. AJNapierski
    Joined: May 22, 2013
    Posts: 48

    AJNapierski
    Member
    from G.V. CA

    I currently have a manual clutch linkage but it is leftover from when my truck had a 235 in it, so it is way too short and worn out, put a new clutch in not long ago and I adjusted the linkage all the way out but the clutch still drags when the pedal is on the floor. So I have a choice stay manual which means replacing most of the linkage and making all the new parts or converting to hydraulic which will require more time, money and work. I was hoping to get some opinions to help me make up my mind I am leaning towards manual because the truck is a 4 wheeler and I trust a manual linkage more, a hydraulic clutch would be a lot nicer but I will be starting from scratch and will have to deal with some bugs either right away, or down the road. Thanks in advance
     
  2. There are also cable operated clutches that work extremely well. HRP
     
  3. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,156

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I would rebuild the linkage I am not a big fan of the fill of a hydraulic clutch.
     
    Jeff K. likes this.
  4. AJNapierski
    Joined: May 22, 2013
    Posts: 48

    AJNapierski
    Member
    from G.V. CA

    A friend of mine had a cable set up on a jeep with the same engine trans and t case set up I have, he told me he broke cables regularly they might have some stronger cable set ups but, I dont want to chance it. What would you say about the manual vs hydraulic?
     
  5. I have had the cable set up since 83 and never had a cable break,although it could tomorrow but if it did I would go back with the exact same thing.

    It's also on my wife's wagon...

    Personally I'm not crazy about the hydraulic throw out bearings. HRP
     
  6. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    Can you make the linkage rod or the tab longer. Cables work well also
     
  7. AJNapierski
    Joined: May 22, 2013
    Posts: 48

    AJNapierski
    Member
    from G.V. CA

    I'm still not crazy about the cable set ups I do a lot of 4 wheeling like my friend does, I feel it would become a problem I am getting the idea that manual would be the way to go.
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,762

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    what year truck is this? do you have the correct throw out bearing? I've swapped a V8 in where a Six was, used the original linkage, and it worked fine.

    Maybe if you show us some pictures of the linkage, we could spot what's wrong?
     
  9. weps
    Joined: Aug 1, 2008
    Posts: 549

    weps
    Member
    from auburn,IN

    since you have the factory engineered clutch linkage my suggestion is to rebuild and use that. Hydraulic throwout bearings are "ok" but to just 'throw one in' is unpossible. I had my engine out twice last week shimming and making adjustments. It was a lot of time and effort, but I can tell you what parts NOT to use.
     
  10. Double down on the possibility of the wrong TO bearing, I know there were at least 2 for the trucks. I would look at extending the rod from the z-bar to the clutch fork. But check all you mounting points and also the z-bar itself. I had one arm separate from the tube on a Ford years back.
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,762

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I worked on a Ford van that had this happen, and the arm was welded back on in the wrong place...took me a while to figure that one out! Clutch would drag, but also would slip if you adjusted it to not drag. The linkage angle was wrong.
     
  12. I got as far as thinking my TO bearing had shit the bed.... apart it came and everything looked mint. Took a look up and saw the z-bar. I had it welded up, but got a new one from Ford that had to be ordered.
     

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