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Projects Chevy 2 bbl carb issue/questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MrGee, Jul 28, 2014.

  1. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    HI all.

    Been working on getting this '61 Impala 4 door on the road. Finally got the carb rebuilt (older gentleman and is meticulous with his work) but have question on the choke valve (picture of carb attached). When I start the car its fully open (I think it should be closed)and it doesn't start, when I close it, it starts right up..But right after it starts it opens all the way, seems to run for a 5 seconds then dies again. Doesn't seem like there is anyway to get the choke valve to stay closed till warm or operate correctly. I bought a Carter 4 bbl for my 62 wagon from same gentleman and it runs great. Just wondering about the choke valve, any help would be great. Thanks :toast: [​IMG]
     
  2. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

  3. Grahamsc
    Joined: May 13, 2014
    Posts: 466

    Grahamsc
    Member
    from Colorado

    I would remove the choke coil cover and make sure the coil spring is connected to the arm inside the housing.
     
  4. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks Grahamsc..I will do that
     
  5. Grahamsc
    Joined: May 13, 2014
    Posts: 466

    Grahamsc
    Member
    from Colorado

    If it is connected , it may be set way to lean and if so you can adjust thetension by rotating the cover.
     
  6. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,773

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Do you have the hot air tube hooked up from the exhaust manifold if not it will not open if set to close.
     
  7. That choke cover look like this kinda?
    image.jpg
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,297

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The thermostat spring should close the valve when it's cold. As the spring heats up, it will let the valve open. There is also a vacuum piston that opens the valve, it's hidden inside that little round part that sticks out at the top left of your photo. When it's adjusted properly, you push the gas pedal once to "set" the choke. This lets the choke close, if you don't then it will be hung up on the fast idle cam. When you start the engine, it should open part way, and open further as the engine heats up, and be fully open when it's up to operating temperature.
     
  9. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,508

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014
  10. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,814

    bobss396
    Member

  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,297

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    61 originally used the exhaust heat type choke. The divorced choke with the spring on the manifold uses a different carb....2GV instead of the 2GC pictured in the first post
     
  12. Mr Gee
    Joined: Nov 11, 2011
    Posts: 1

    Mr Gee
    Member
    from Vegas

    Graham I did check this and I fixed the arm on the coil to close the valve so this did work!! Thanks

    Thanks salt flats i did hook this up and seems to be working as I did see the choke opening after warming up, I'll have to get this to stay in the manifold somehow as the one I'm using had broke off in the manifold


    31vicky yes it I'll post some pics tomorrow

    Squirrel yes this seems like it is working correctly now that I hooked up the choke coil to the arm ! that's great info you put up there as well, now that the coil seems to be good I have a fuel delivery problem , once the choke valve was closed it started up right away and I saw the valve start to open up. Then the engine died and won't start now , seems like it's starving for gas as it's not leaking from the carb nor the inlet and I don't hear any fuel squirting in, I had put a fuel regulator on it since it was flooding , but now seems like it's starving , go figure


    Thanks apachegail, I will check this out tomorrow


    Bob yes I have seen this before but there's not one on this setup because I think that coil you are referring to is the choke coil
     
    saltflats likes this.
  13. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,773

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

  14. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks Saltflats..but without your guys' help I wouldn't have known where to look
     
  15. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Here are some pics of the way it looks on the car now. Think I'm gonna remove the fuel regulator since now it's not getting any gas.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,297

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The regulator should not be necessary with the stock fuel pump. Also, the carb originally had a bronze filter in the fuel inlet, they worked fine if maintained. Original fuel line was one piece of metal tubing, flared at the ends.

    Might also look at the vacuum advance can on the distributor, make sure it's still working...usually when they get that much "patina" on them, they leak
     
  17. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    If you have a stock GM fuel pump and carb, a regulator is not necessary. Stock fuel pump pressure is usually 5-7 lbs.

    edit...Jim beat me to it. :)
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  18. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,814

    bobss396
    Member

    I'm getting lazier and lazier... anything I build uses a hand choke. An anti-theft device in itself.
     
  19. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Great info again Jim thanks for responding, I'm pretty sure the bronze filter was replaced when rebuilt but may check this at last resort..for now I will remove the pressure regulator, its definitely possible this is restricting the flow. Funny thing, this car was sitting for about 7 years in this guys garage. changed out the hoses, new radiator that came with the car, put in new fuel lines etc, threw some fuel in the carb, external fuel tank with some fuel, and started right up. Once I closed the choke valve it would stay idling, but when I would throttle it, wanted to die , or when I put it in gear it would just die, figured carb was just old and probably gunked up/jets and stuff.

    Hi Larry, carb seems like it is original to the car, I put in an Autozone Airtex pump but should basically be stock, seems like now theres just not enough pressure to get the fuel to the bowl..first it was flooding the carb, funny how its reverse from when I first put rebuilt carb on, now its starving..
     
  20. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Bob, this was going to be my last resort if I couldn't get the choke to function correctly, but seems like once I engaged the choke coil on the valve arm it seems good now, just have to fix the fuel starvation problem..maybe get to it tonight after work.
     
  21. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,508

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406651967.257549.jpg
    I'm no expert but it looks like your carb is missing something.
     
  22. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,814

    bobss396
    Member

    OEM chokes work pretty well once you get all the parts and have it adjusted. I used to buy brand new Rochester 2BBLs just so the chokes would work right off the bat.
     
  23. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I used a carb from a truck with a manual choke that I can control myself.
     
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,297

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    the bowl vent is missing...shouldn't cause the problems you're having, though
     
  25. MrGee
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 59

    MrGee
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    It possibly is , I'm not sure as this is the way I got it.

    Yeah, hopefully this choke still works, it did in the short time it was running yesterday.

    Yeah, I could drill a hole in the lever to get a spot to use the choke from inside the car, but if I can get this to function correctly it would be nice, seems like I can if I can get the gas to get to the carb now.

    where is the bowl vent?
     
  26. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,508

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    The bowl vent is pictured above where the throttle/choke rods are so if you compare your picture with mine yours has a shiny plug.
     
  27. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,297

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The little round metal plug on the top of the carb, there should be a hole there, and a couple pieces over it...a thick metal cover, and a thin metal arm with a rubber plug thing. The plug opens at idle.
     
  28. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,911

    ClayMart
    Member

    Should there be some sort of external choke pull-off or vacuum break on this carb? Or is that function built into the choke thermostat housing on this model?
     
  29. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,297

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    built into the housing, you can see the round part sticking out that houses the vacuum piston
     
  30. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,911

    ClayMart
    Member

    Sho 'nuff! I see it now pointing back at the distributor. Now I'm trying to remember if it was even adjustable or not. :confused:
     

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