I am now in the process of figuring out what brake lines and components I will need for the new braking system in my 1956 Chevy 150. I have discs in the front and the stock drum brakes in the rear. I have a new Wilwood proportioning valve laying here also. The system will remain manual brakes. I know I need a dual reservoir master cylinder. I have read that some master cylinders have residual pressure valves built in. So what is my best option?
dual master cylinders designed for drum brakes sometimes have built in proportioning valves. But those for disc brakes don't...you can tell a disc brake mc because one reservoir is much larger than the other, that's the one for the disc brakes...required since the calipers fill up as the pads wear. Make sure you get a mc with a small enough bore, usually 1" is about right. I had one on my 55 that I removed to install a neat old chrome original single mc, I think it's in a box somewhere...I wonder what the part number is? huh. sucks getting old and you can't remember anything
I have a '56 210 HT with manual disc front & drum rear. Without boring you with a long tale, the brakes are about the only thing on that car that the prior owner did right. A couple people who drove the car after I got it thought the brakes worked really well, so it just ain't me. Now, I could offer to get the part number off my master brake cylinder (mbc). I think the p.o. said it was a ... mid 60's?... corvette?... mbc. One thing I've learned along the way listening to and reading about other people's brake troubles on tri-fives with disc/drum or disc/disc set-ups (both manual & power) is that brake line inside diameter size; mbc bore size & stroke; brake pedal ratio in relation to the mbc; etc all play into choosing the correct compliment of parts. So I said I could get my mbc part number, but that may not mean it's going to be exactly what you want or need. If you are using a kit, does the kit manufacturer suggest which mbc you should be using? Gotta56forme/Scott
It is not a kit. Actually, the only reason I put discs on is because they were dirt cheap. Some guy bought a '56 that only had a couple hundred miles since it was finished and proceeded to tear the front end apart because he wanted big aftermarket brakes and dropped spindles. So I got a like new disc setup for about half of what it would cost me to rebuild my old abused drum brakes. If you get a chance I would like that part number though. Thanks
Do I even need residual pressure valves in the system? Some people have claimed that they are only necessary in a system where the master cylinder is lower than the brakes.
I have that set up on my '56 210 waggy . Uses a dual 15/16" MC , big bore cpp calipers in front .I did use an adj.prop. valve inline for the rear and RPV's inline for both ends .Stops fine !
I don't have any proportioning or residual pressure valves on mine, and I'm still alive after all these years. That doesn't mean it's the right way to do it, of course. An RPV for the rear drum brakes can help prevent the wheel cylinders from seeping.
Well, I'm coming up with a whole lot of nothing. I looked at the sides & top of the mbc, and don't find a part number. If someone can tell me where I might find it (without unbolting it from the firewall), then I'll have another go. The p.o. gave me a file of receipts for the car. I see in 2001, he purchased a 'stock spindle disc brake upgrade kit' for the front, from Danchuk. The last instruction in the upgrade kit says to get a disc brake mbc. Even though he seemed to have saved many/all receipts, I don't find a receipt for the mbc.
I think the one I used was the manual brake 70 Camaro with 1" bore. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1034761,parttype,1836
This is the one I was told to use for a manual disc / drum set up. I have one, but I am still building my car so I can't say how well it works. Here is the Bendix part number. Rock Auto has these. BENDIX Part # 11372 More Info {#18000809, 18009460, 2621664, 5461184, 5469399} New Front Disc brakes; Rear Disc brakes; Power brakes
Would I be ahead to buy a kit like this so that I have all the pieces instead of mixing and matching? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Cyli...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ce72a0e1&vxp=mtr
I also see a few conversions done with an adjustable (Jeg's type) proportional valve plumbed to the rear. As far as donor masters go, always match it to the size of your car, so use something comparable like from a Chevelle or Impala.
Mid 70's Camaro or Corvette. I used all junk yard mid sized GM parts and a Classic Chevy mounting bracket. Most of those parts were 70's Buick, Monte Carlo, Chevy. Also get the junk yard short master lines, etc. Almost forgot, I am using a power brake booster and master for power brakes. No residual valves or any thing. Just NAPA universl brake lines and connectors. After I realized those junk yard parts were worn out I used them as cores and was surprised how cheap rebuilt or replacement calipers, rotors, pads, etc were. It may not be right but we've been all over the midwest and south, even Blue Ridge Parkway twice since early 90's. So far I've stopped everytime I wanted to. That's with a 55 Chevy wagon loaded with camping gear.
Has anybody used a MC from Speedway? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dual-Fe...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8f3cd7f4
I have done several tri-five Chevys with front discs and rear drums. I usually use the early 70's master cylinder - they came power and manual. I go to the Autozone web site and look up the 1970 small block corvette master cylinders and the "detail" section will tell you bore diameter and if power or manual. I believe the two holes on the master cylinder have to be ground out a little to fit stock holes, but everything is a bolt on. I always use a stock type proportioning valve for my application. I use 3/16" lines for front and rear. This system has always worked for me. Non-power makes it work fine and keeps engine compartment a little cleaner. Brian
What is the port size in that M/C? I ask because I am hoping to find one that is 3/8" since my proportioning valve and lines have 3/8" ports/fittings.
The best master cylinder for manual front disc/rear drum I have found is from a mid 70's 1/2 ton chevy pickup. 1" bore... Used /sold over 100 with no problems... On my 55 210....on the 39 chevy in the shop..on the 55 belair under construction now.. Even on the metro project...and my off topic dirt track car.... Very reasonably priced.... Dave
If you can live with the 3.25" hole spacing (common to Fords) it may be a good choice, but you're better off with something GM. NAPA sells lines with 3/8"-24 on one end and other sizes on the other end.
There are two different sized ports on the stock GM master cylinders. Seems like they are 7/16" and 9/16", but may be wrong. I believe on the Autozone web site it will tell you port size. I always have to use male / female flare adapters. Brian
Adapters are always an option if you aren't concerned with the look. I'd rather find a pre-made line with what I want on both ends or make up a new section from scratch.
When I built this one over 30 years ago I just took everything from a wrecked non power disc 70 Camaro.... M/cyl., rotors, distribution block, calipers and rear end. Mounted under the floor to a hot rod pedal assembly No added valves only what GM deemed necessary. It worked like the Camaro...very good. You can get into trouble by mix matching parts from different make and model cars. I believe in the KISS system. JMHO
Any suggestions on who makes decent master cylinders nowadays? I ordered a Raybestos because I have used and been happy with their products for years. This master cylinder was a POS. When they machined the back side of the casting where it mounts to the firewall, it was not a true 90 degrees to the bore. It was far enough off that the flange was almost 1/8" thicker from one side to the other. Imagine my surprise(NOT) when I turned the box over and it said "made in china"
Good luck! you might find that some companies have a few different "lines" of replacement parts, and the more expensive ones might be better quality. Or they might not be. I put a cheap parts store non-name brand rebuilt on my Chevy II, so far so good. I think it was under $30 after I brought them an old one.
That's kind of what I was expecting. I don't know if there are any made in the USA anymore. Or if made in the USA would make any difference nowadays.
Assembled in mexico with parts made in China is about as good as you can do, it seems with rebuilt instead of new, the odds of getting a housing that was made in the US is slightly higher
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