Have blown diodes in my alternator and am going through electrical system to simplify, I think. I have non-switchable & switchable (accessory) fuse panels. Non- switchable consists of : headlights/tail lights, gauge lights, brake lights, interior lights and radio. Switchable fuse panel consists of fuel pump, fuel gauge, tach. which run through a relay and fused. Voltmeter goes direct to hot side of ignition. Don't know why I have tach. and fuel gauge running through a relay and fuses, wouldn't these two gauges be better wired going directly to switchable side of ignition rather than through a fuse panel? Do I really need the relay for the fuel pump, it has a 10 amp fuse in the switchable fuse panel? Both panels are fed through a 50 amp circuit breaker.
yes leave the relay there. Blown diodes are pretty common in alt's. If you are going to make changes to a manufacturer's wiring system you should check with them for their comments.
A relay for the fuel pump is a good thing. A relay for the fuel gauge I question. I have used almost all the after market wire kits and have never seen this. A lot of kits have a fusible link between the alt and the battery. I usually change the fusible link with a Maxi fuse of equal value. what wire kit are you using?
That'd be the last thing I'd do ! You'd be better off checking with a few members on here first. Who the hell would you check with at, say, Ford, or GM. You'd be put through to some dropkick who wouldn't know shit from clay who would say.. "oh no sir, we don't recommend you interfere with the vehicle's wiring. You'll have to take you car to one of our dealer service centres sir...(where we'll be happy to rip you off), wank... wank... wank...sir.." Anyway, back to your question. I'd have a relay on the lights, but the rest.. probably not, except maybe for the pump. Tach & guages, definitely a waste of time. Get rid of them. Just something else to go wrong.
If you are having alternator problems, you need to remember to keep the charging system seperate from the rest of the wiring. I mean if using the 1 wire GM altermator, just run the output(hot) wire to the starter solenoid. Then take all your feeds off of the solenoid. a fusable link is nice to have where the alternator connects to the solenoid. As far as fuses, put them on any low-draw component. Use a circuit breaker and a relay on the electic pump , headlights. Get on Google, punch in wiring diagram for a 1957 Ford and copy it if all else fails. you should not be blowing diods. what is your amp guage saying? it must not be full-fielded or it will fail. hope this makes sense.Henry.
1) Yes, you need a relay for the fuel pump (also for the electric fan if you have one) 2) No, you do not need a relay for the fuel gauge nor the tach. Those should be keyed "hot" so when you turn the ignition on they are powered up, but not enough load on them to need a relay. Don
Okay, will leave the fuel pump on a relay, the fan has its own Ron Francis kit relay. Am waiting for alternator diodes from NAPA. Alternator is a 2 wire 10SI.
Yes complicate it as much as you can to make it hard to trouble shoot. The more relays and switches that you can add the better you have to justify that aftermarket wiring system that you paid good money for. Sorry I just can't help myself.
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