Rebuilding my '56 Customline with a 302/T-5. Just wondering should I be putting a brake booster in? If so what one? Also What kind of master cylinder should I get. Can anyone help with part numbers or year/make/model of what they have used. Thanks guys! Also will Dodge Magnum rotors, calipers, etc. be made to work?
I would think if you do a search on here there are quite a few posts on that subject brake booster that is.as too magnum brake parts nothing is impossible but cost would probably be a major stumbling block.for machining for bearings,caliper mounts etc.good luck in your rebuild
I would look for a kit for it. I got mine from this guy. http://hotrodsandbrakes.com/Ford_Disc_Brake_Kits.html For a master, I'm going to be buying a '73 Mustang disc/drum manual master, haven't decided exactly what I want.
Nope, a 2-bolt. Use the 2 lower holes on the firewall, or whatever lines up with the rod that is attached to the pedal. They are 3.25" on center.
I would say so. On my '59, I'm just going to use shorter bolts at the top to clean up the firewall a bit. I'm not using a booster.
So what is the difference between running a booster and not running a booster? Are there any advantages or disadvantages. Not sure how a booster works or what it is used for. Thanks!
This is probably up for debate, but if I understand brake systems correctly, in a properly working system, manual brakes(no booster) will perform equally as well as a power brake system, just with a lot more effort. Response time is undoubtably a tad quicker with ***isted. You may be more familiar with the term "power ***isted" brakes, than "booster", but the booster is the actual part that gives you the power ***ist. Most boosters are va***n "powered", but they also are available electric (expensive), and hydraulic...called a "hydroboost", which is a hydraulic sytem getting it's source of power from the power steering pump. The last two systems are generally used when there is no room for a bulky va***n booster, or the engine does not produce enough usable va***n. An electric booster can be remotely mounted, the physically smaller hydroboost unit gets mounted in the traditional location between the master cylinder and the firewall. I've got a hydroboost unit on my car because the enormous size of the heads on my 4.6 dohc leaves no room for a traditional booster. Electric units I believe are strictly aftermarket products, but hydoboost units have been used by Ford for years on some vehicles depending on drivetrain options...mine came from an 02 Mustang (GT?). Rich
The booster greatly reduces your pedal effort. I recall big cars of the early 1960's, Pontiacs abd Oldsmobiles. All you had to do was tap the pedal. And this was with drum brakes. I had a hydro boost in my OT Chevy wagon. It was a real monstrosity, I should have changed it to a regular booster. They were used by GM with diesel applications on wagons and trucks. I think mine cost me around $500 to have it changed, parts and labor.
The four bolts that hold the old master also secure your pedal ***embly to the firewall,if you were to do a dual master upgrade all the bolts go back in to hold it in place. This shows you how to do it:
I got a 54 Ford that I did a Granada disc conversion on. Went with manual brakes and they work as good as power ***ist with just a little more effort. Had to stop suddenly at 65 MPH because of a traffic tie-up and they worked great without the power ***ist. The original master was held with four bolts, the later ones used two. Just line up the rod with the correct holes (usually the bottom two) and just put bolts in the unused holes as they hold the pedal ***embly.
I have a remote booster on my pickup, like the ones used on the early T-Birds. I located it back near the right rear wheel and only use it only for the front brakes (which are disc). It improved my braking a lot. These units, called Hydrovac by some, were used on several cars. It keeps the engine compartment free of a bulky firewall booster.
This guy's credibility went straight to the ****per once I saw his use of teflon tape on the master fittings....
In a perfect world we would not have offshore parts that are not 100% perfect to use,sadly that is not the case every time you buy something it's a **** shoot.Many bolts and fittings are not true to form the teflon will take up the gaps,I had to use it on my fuel fittings and the pretty chrome plugs in my intake so they would not leak.It worked and is holding well,do I wish it wasn't necessary? You bet!
I think the important thing is the type of teflon tape. You don't want to use the std. white plumber's tape. The yellow teflon tape is made for natural gas fittings, and reading the label on it says for use with hydraulic and fuel lines as well. The fuel pump I just installed called for teflon tape on the pipe fittings, I just knew to use the yellow, not white. It's available in the home centers right along side of the normal plumber's tape....with a cost about 3x the white.
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