I think that you are trying to eat the elephant all at once. The stock GM TBI unit and computer is about the most basic FI control around and it is Very forgiving. Yes, you need to ultimately tune the system to your engine, but as for where to start? Bolt it on and hook up the wires and turn the key. I had an 87 chevy with 350 and it wore out so I dropped my 468 BBC with 9.5 compression and app 280H cam in it and made an adapter to bolt the TBI onto the edelbrock intake and swapped the sensors over and it ran a drove ok, made it to Lincoln NE and back for a power tour and drove a few months after that way. It didn't have enough fuel or air to run good up top, and it kinda stumbled around on the idle, but it Did run and kept running until I went ahead and put the Holley back on that motor. 1. I say use the stock configuration computer and get it running first, then start modifying the FI to fit your 406. As for checking the TPS, you should not need to mess with it unless you find it is bad or for some reason out of range. I can't recall if they are adjustable or not, they are pretty straight forward to deal with unless it is an intermitant problem. You can check it if you want, but I don't think you need to at this time. 2. You need 15 psi to run the stock injectors anyway, that is what the stock regulator in the TBI is set at, or very close to it, so as long as you have the volume to supply it and you have the return line and all ran properly, you will be fine. You can put an adjustable reg in it I think if you want. The stock lines do not have a port to hook up a pressure guage, so I suggest putting one inline when you plumb it. You will want it in the supply side and check it when the engine is running. 3. I don't know about the egr valve in the collector, but I do not see why it wouldn't work. If I recall I did not have mine hooked up when I ran the 468 since it did not even have one on it. 4. I think you will be programming it soon after you get it running and then also after you drive it in real life conditions for awhile. 5. Go ahead and get the cable, but I am confident that you will be able to drive it around without any changes to start with, worst case is that it stays in closed loop mode and just runs poorly, but still runs. That will give you a chance to do a little at a time. I think recording it will be a good thing so you can see what you have to work on. It should also help diagnose sensors if they are acting up or not. 6. Got me 7. Hmm, my guess is you will have to pay for the tables from someone that build the systems, like FAST etc. I don't know. Bad thing is that the TBI is not new and cool anymore so all the R&D and current stuff is LS. I have moved on from it anyway so this info is off the top of my head and has been awhile since I even had one. You might find what you want on some of the LS swap forums as those guys are into it and I am sure that some of them started off messing with the TBI. I did an LS swap into a customers 65 chevy truck and spent alot of time on them reading and it was generally good info and alot of it. 8, 9. Again, not sure. I would say that the lock up is controlled by more variables than just the TPS, should have VSS info and also some sort of vac signal even if generated from calculations off a speed density or MAF sensor. Vacuum is generally a direct indication of load. I think that you might hold off on changing those parameters until you know for sure what to do with them. I would think in stock form it will just act like you have a trailer if it were still in the donor vehicle, so I would not get too worried about it. Might want to run a trans temp guage on it and if you really want to monitor it, a line pressure guage. A 700r4 is not a bad trans once you get a later version and beef up a couple areas. The biggest thing that I saw eat them up when Dad was at the dealership (80's and early 90's) was them constantly shifting in/out of lock up and OD. This was common with 1/2 ton truck pulling 28-30ft rv's from IL and central KS was as far as they made it. The whole way they had left it in OD and it would shift in/out at every little grade change or puff of wind. If you have an updated/upgraded trans then it won't be a priority to deal with it. I just thought of it, but what were/are you using to control lockup on it now? Jason
KS, as I mentioned before, I did the Ford Ranger swap and when I had everything hooked up, (all stock parts that had worked together in previous vehicle) I turned on the key, heard the fuel pump start, run a few seconds, then stop. (normal operation according to the book) I said a prayer and hit the starter, it ran perfectly, so I thanked God and drove it over a hundred thousand miles without problem The other experience I have with a computerized engine is my 37 Dodge with a 3.9 Dodge v6 from a Dakota. On this one I switched from standard trans to automatic with lock-up TQ and removed EGR, Evap canister, and air pump. these last 3 weren't closed loop so I just pulled the wires out of the computer plug. The computer didn't have any connection for a TQ lock-up, so I do that with a toggle switch on the console. I've never tried to change any of the operating parameters like fuel pressure, but did change from a Dodge to a Ford pump in the tank and it didn't affect the engine in any noticeable way. If I were you, I would get the engine running with the stock computer, establish a baseline with your data logging system, then decide if you want to start making modifications. It might be that your computer will "learn" the different engine and adapt the fuel curve to fit because it should be constantly sniffing the tailpipe with an O2 sensor. I wouldn't worry about sensors unless you have a problem show up when you start it or in your data log, and I know nothing about the lock-up control on GMs. Come on, lets here this ***** run!!!!!!!! Edit: sounds like mcgiver and I agree on some things!
Ok, I started installing the wiring harness into the truck. Should the ECM have air space all around it? I planned on mounting it in the area formerly used by the fuel tank, but now I wonder if it would get too hot in there. I could drill some holes in the cover panel to allow air in and out. I am listening to you guys so if it doesn't run...it's all your fault. HA!! I'll buy a data-logging cable for $59 and simply see if the 406 will run on the stock computer. I now have a contact who will re-program the computer for $200 based upon the data logs. He knows his stuff. Probably best to leave it to a pro. Fuel pumps are still an issue. Plan is to install and convert everything, but keep it running on the carb until I am ready to swap intakes.
KS, try to install in a similar environment to where it was originally, if it had free air movement around it, it probably needs it. That Dodge that I did originally had a hose from the air cleaner hooked to it, I mounted it below the master cylinder on the firewall, thinking that there would be enough air flow around it. Not so, I fried it on the first hot day, so I hooked up the hose and it lived after that. With any electronic, cool is better than hot!
I ran the factory wire harness forward from the engine, under the back of the cab and up through the floor. The computer will set inside behind the seats. It will set under the wood shelf that mounts my stereo speakers. Most of my electrical is there, including relays and the fuse box. I will drill some large air holes right above the computer and cover the shelf with porous material, like a speaker. That's about the best I can do, unless I also mount a fan in the cover. I really do not want to listen to fan...maybe I can find a small quiet one just to move air. By the way, my wire harness looked quite nice setting on the kitchen table, but simply moving it out to the truck to fit it to the engine bay, tangled the heck out of it...but it had to be done. Just taking it one small step at a time.
The ECM on the trucks was behind the glovebox, not packed in real tight, but it didn't have any direct airflow either. Worst case put a small fan outside the cab and run a duct so that it ****s air out of the electrical box and the fan is out of earshot. I doubt you will need to do that. I am unsure how much this generation of ECM 'learns' I think that it adjusts within a certain range that is programmed in, I don't think that it can handle a nasty lumpy cam and more cid by just learning over time. He will need to reprogram to move that range to match the 406 so it runs right. I hear you on the harness, especially if it is not all bundled and tied like it will end up. That LS harness I got was cut down and minimized greatly and was bundled and it still looked overwhelming laying on the bench.
Fuel pumps are another issue. I thought I could modify my aluminum tanks to accept the newer fuel pump module with the built in reservoir, but after talking to the tech at Airtex, I don't think they will work. The stock pump in the ***embly is for late model EFI, has way too much volume and pressure for the TBI. A lower volume pump might not work correctly in the housing and definitely won't fit right. Before I can move forward, I need to solve this issue...This whole truck feels like a hornets nest lately. Everything I touch explodes into a bunch of other issues. Sorry...I am doing too much talk, and not enough pictures.
I quit. I resign, terminate, end, and give up...As much as I hate to give up, the cost and time required to get the EFI installed is making working on the truck no fun. I am just going to fix the leaking intake gaskets. Maybe some other day
I understand where you are coming from, I had similar thoughts about my Autocar a couple of months ago. Take a break, have some fun, but don't burn any bridges. Maybe a month, a year, or two from now, you will come across a piece of information that will be the light at the end of your tunnel.
McGyver is giving you very good advice. Listen to him. This is pretty basic as far as fuel injection goes, and once you get it running, you will wonder why it bothered you so much. Anyone that can design parts like toolbox hinges, and make them work can figure this out. You always can use a Holley Pro Jection setup that uses the stock intake. I have used them long ago, and they will get 2 mpg better, and make the engine run like it is 100 ci bigger. You have already climbed higher mountains than this. It is aggravating , but not insurmountable. There are a lot of sharp people on here that are more than willing to help.
When it rains... I yanked the EFI wiring harness back out of the truck. I returned the $100 worth of senders to the store,. I temp patched the 2" hole in the floor that the wiring came through. I put the now clean, bead blasted intake in a box, and boxed up all the parts. I will wait until winter to mess with it all again (if ever). I tightened the leaking oil pan bolts, the oil pan still leaks. Ah! I did discover that the coolant leak seems to be from a byp*** (heater) hose on top of the water pump and not the intake that I suspected, so that should be an easy fix. The heater hose runs at a diagonal through a hole in the a/c bracket but I think the bracket is rubbing/cutting the hose. I may try and find a longer hose barb to mount on the water pump so that the hose will be clamped outside and not run through the hole. The bolts on the intake manifold that I had loosened earlier, might need to be pulled out and siliconed as there is a little antifreeze on the intake. I will try ONE more tightening of the pan bolts and another test to see if it is any better. After that, I am afraid I will have to pull the pan again. Yuck! I realized today what my biggest mistake with this truck is...it was not done and I drove it. Now I keep thinking it shouldn't have issues. My second mistake was painting it black, my third mistake was...etc.,etc...HA!
Parts help - My door latch striker is connected to the body bolted to a small metal plate in a the door jamb that has two nuts inserted into it. Where can I buy a new nut plate for the 39 style Ford striker? (and is it the same as the 32 Ford nut plate?, those I can find)
I am stumped and frustrated. After all this work, the engine still throws oil and runs bad. I have severe detonation issues at 4 degrees BTDC timing. If I back off the timing, there is no power. I did not have this issue when I drove it to KC. What could have happened when I broke the valve spring that could cause this? I ran the valves a few weeks ago with the engine running and the cam does not seem flat. I only went 1/4 turn past the tappet noise stopping, should I go further? Could my distributor be bad? I up for any ideas. I am going to let it cool down and then run a compression test on it. I wonder if I bent a valve or poked a hole in a piston.
I ran a compression test. I removed all the spark plugs and cranked it 5 times for each cylinder. Compression ranged from: Right bank - 215 on #1, 200 on #3, 210 on #5 (cylinder that had the broke valve spring), 210 on #7. Left bank - 207 on #1, 210 on #4, 205 on #6, 210 on # 8 Spark plugs looked VERY weird! Plugs are R43TS AC Delco. They are tan on the bottom side that is towards the piston, and look oil fouled on the top side that faces the valves. I've never seen a plug half fouled like this. Virtually all of them looked like that.
If you broke a valve spring, I would look for damage in the valve, valve seat, piston, rocker arm, push rod, lifter, and cam lobe. A nicked piston or valve would cause a hot spot. That will give you pre ignition. I would pull the head, inspect it and the piston very closely. I know you don't want to do this, but I would pull the motor and go through everything to freshen it up and solve all of your issues.
With that compression your valves are sealing good! did you have the intake off? (i'm thinking you have a vacuum leak, maybe ****ing oil in from the valley) Sometimes the hard way is the easy way, I would seriously consider Tony's suggestion of getting it out and tearing it down.
I don't recall the history of your engine and how much you have driven it - has it ever ran as expected in the truck? I know you said it didn't detonate on the drive to KC, but did it run like you thought it should? What is your description of "severe" detonation, does it sound like it is going to throw parts out immediately or just pings bad? Does it do it in park while adjusting the timing or just under load when driving? Do you have the timing tab/pointer that matches the balancer? Is the cam timing gear installed at zero or adv/retarded? Have you timed it by vacuum vs a timing light? If your pointer it wrong, the light is not going to be telling you the real info. You can set timing with a vac guage, it has been way too long to tell you how for sure, all I remember right now is that you can do it. Are your mechanical advance weights sticking in the distributor? What distributor are you using? Does it have a vac advance on it? Is the vac diaphram leaking? Does it move through it's travel smoothly? How much endplay is in the distributor? If the shaft can ride up and down alot, that can throw timing off. How new is the dist? Also just to remind me, what are the specs on the engine? Carb, intake, cam?
I started a thread called "Frustrated and Mad". I've gotten lot of good advice and discovered that my Mickey Thompson Valve covers with un-baffled holes for the PCV valve, allowed the engine to **** in a LOT of oil and that fouled the spark plugs and caused it to run terrible. I replaced the MT covers with stock ones and replaced the spark plugs. I also threw in some 91 octane into the fuel tanks and it runs much better. I do have two issues to deal with. It pops in the exhaust when it quickly drops down from a high rev to idle, and it smokes a lot. I can't tell if the smoke is oil or gas. Too much fuel might make sense and cause the popping. So could an exhaust system filled with oil (I wiped off the inside of the tailpipe and it is quite oily inside). I checked four plugs tonight and they all looked good...no oil fouling. I will check the other four tomorrow. My high cylinder pressure numbers might have been due to a stuck compression gauge that has not been used for years. Tonight I tested 4 cylinders and they were all in the 140 range with the same gauge...(probably a Harbor Freight tool...!) I did notice, on one test drive, that the 700R4 trans did not seem to downshift when I pushed the pedal to the floor. What controls the downshift?
TV cable, its adjustment is very important. Do a google search, I have seem many a 700r4 burnt up because it was set up wrong. Rob
I ran a leak down test and I have one very bad cylinder (#4 - 60%) Most other cylinders are at 91%. I could have sworn the bad valve spring was on #6, but it appears I have an exhaust valve problem so maybe it was #4 and my brain is fried from too many paint fumes? I ran air pressure into the cylinder and can hear it clearly leaking out the exhaust system. BUT since #2 and #6 are also low so I won't rule out a blown head gasket between the cylinders. I'll know more when I tear it apart...yuck.
My engine is now in a lot of little pieces and the heads are going to get re-done since the exhaust valves leak. I hope the end is in sight, this is really exhausting...no pun intended.
Took my heads to St Louis to get repaired. Conclusion - Bad Exhaust valves (worn stems) No new valves in stock at local supply houses for my Mexican heads so they had to order them. I drove back to KC empty handed. "One small step for COE-kind...one giant pain in the posterior for me."
One piece at a time! Keep the faith. When the day comes and you're cruising, it will all have been worth it!
Heads are back and engine needs to be re***embled, but the lack of a future living space is taking the highest priority. It is amazing how much junky houses on any sort of larger property costs these days. I backed out of the 7 acres with the 1902 built house due to so many inspection issues...now I wonder if I made a mistake. I drive by and see nice modest houses with obvious car guy garages (old fuel pumps, vintage signs, etc.) and I am soooooo jealous. I can't seem to find anything to buy. It's like going to a buffet for dinner and having to s****e the pans to get something to eat...yuck! I may have to mount a camper on my bed to live in...guess I'll practice making cardboard signs since I could be homeless soon. "Please help...homeless hot-rodder needs large garage to feed his COE habit"
Heads are finally back on the engine. Working on the engine from way above is really hard on the back muscles
Back up and running. Only real issue after ***embly was that I had a fuel leak from a cracked single flair fitting on the carb end of the fuel line. I think that was something I installed in a hurry when we moved from St Louis to KC. Still have to deal with oil leaks on oil pan.
Gonna make a test run down the drags Sat? I was hoping to get mine put together to drive it over, but not sure if it will happen now.
The Jalopy Journal
