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Technical custom brass trim

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by don held, Aug 26, 2014.

  1. don held
    Joined: Aug 22, 2014
    Posts: 4

    don held

    Anybody know what grade of br*** is used to fabricate custom trim? getting ready to fabricate custom side molding for my 37 . never done it before so any info would help.
     
  2. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,308

    redo32
    Member

    What ever your local supplier has will be good. You don't have any reason to use any high tech specialty alloy. It's expensive enough, just get what you can afford.
     
  3. don held
    Joined: Aug 22, 2014
    Posts: 4

    don held

    Thanks Redo32, any pointers on heating and bending?
     
  4. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,308

    redo32
    Member

    Shouldn't have to heat it unless your doing sharp 90' angles. What car are you working on? Just doing the side trim? It's nice to have trim thick enough to drill & tap for mounting studs.
     
  5. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    photo 5 (17).JPG If you have to bend it sharp just watch your heat to not bubble it. Easy to shape and form, and looks damn good chromed..
     
    loudbang likes this.
  6. BlackjackMerc
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 24

    BlackjackMerc
    Member
    from California

    Slddnmatt, do you use round bar or rectangular bar on the mercs?

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  7. don held
    Joined: Aug 22, 2014
    Posts: 4

    don held

    Redo32, I am doing a 37 ford sedan and plan on using half round to fabricate side molding starting at the front of the car and running to the rear quarters. I also have to make new window side trim to accommodate the the laid back windshield and chop and door post removal.Do you think the half round will bend on the width end without heat? I have to make a mild radius on the quarter panels.
     
  8. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

     
  9. Use yellow br***, not red.
     
  10. Russ B
    Joined: Jun 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,596

    Russ B
    Member

    Steve, can you say why?

    I don't have any depth of personal knowledge; but when I recently made a mirror arm bracket mold and had it cast, the folks guiding me through the process recommended using red br*** if I was plating the pieces. Red apparently has more copper and is softer than yellow br***. It is not as strong, but more ductile (bendable) than the yellow. I am finding that the red br*** castings are quite workable as I add detail that I could not put into the casting mold.

    Any detailed thoughts on the benefits of one over the other would be appreciated.
     
  11. Russ B
    Joined: Jun 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,596

    Russ B
    Member

    Btt.
    Anyone have more thoughts on using yellow versus red br*** for casting and shaping custom pieces?
     
  12. marioD
    Joined: Nov 20, 2005
    Posts: 240

    marioD
    Member

    if heated red hot and quenched in cold water it will get an annealed state that makes it easy to bend and shape...
     
  13. 56don
    Joined: Dec 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,329

    56don
    Member

    Since you would have to chrome the br*** which is expensive, wouldn't you consider making it out of stainless? You can cut and weld stainless then polish it up to a bright finish without having to go through getting it plated.
     
  14. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,721

    K13
    Member

    The advantage to br*** is you can work it with wood working tools so you can use things like round over bits in routers to speed the shaping. The use of tools like that also ensure that the profiles are consistent through the length of the trim piece. Unless you have a mill shaping stainless would be grinding and sanding which is a lot more work and far less accurate.
     

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